2V Conversion Checklist

200 pushrods. If you want to do it right, get the checker pushrod from Summit. At midlift you want the contact area right in the center of the valve stem.
If you install a camshaft get all the specs from the grinder. Comp cams come 4 degrees advanced where most others are straight up. I would not advise the comp cam cause the design is 50 years old & performs poorly compared with the other grinds.
If it a stick shift i go with 2 deg. advance 4 deg with a C-4 for more low end.
I highly recommend Schneider Cams. Jerry is very knowledgeable on the Ford Six.
Last & not least, get rid of the junk stock ford valve springs. Yes that includes the 302 ones.
Go with a spring the has a damper inside the spring & use the spring the grinder recommends.
To sum it up do not use stock Ford valve springs & stay away from the Comp Cam. Unless the grind a more modern profile than what they list.
 
Howdy Matt and All:

THe total mill cut of .075", when broken apart is .025" for the thicker composite head gasket you will be using- The stock gasket was .025" thick, the new composite type gasket is .050". THe difference of .025". The other part is the .050" cut is to reduce the chambers close to the 52cc chambers on the stock head. So, you, you are reducing the total height of the valve train. The hydraulic lifters can accommodate for about +/- .125" according to FoMoCo. On assembly check the rocker arm contact to the valve tip at several points along the lift cycle. BIll's (wsa111) recommend of on center at half way through the lift cycle makes alot of sense.

On the valve springs, I used stock late model springs on my build, with .030" valve spring shims. I had no expectations to rev my 250 anywhere past 5,000 rpms- at least on purpose. My brother Dennis used 302 exhaust valve on his 200. He revved past 5,000 regularly. Neither of us had any problems. I had a Comp 260 cam. He ran a Clifford 264. Keep in mind that both of these cams were purchased way before VI and Matt's resources. Bill's recommend for cam and springs with dampers makes alot of sense for a today build. Your choice.

Good luck and best wishes. Keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll call Schneider next week. I'm working on finding someone locally who would be able to help me with a cam install with the block in the car. I would remove the front grill assembly to do so. I am assuming with a cam, it is advisable/required to do new lifters, new cam bearings, dual roller timing chain. Anything else I am missing? I'll ask their reco on springs, etc as well.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
Just to clarify one thing on valve springs. If you do not rev the engine beyond 4500 RPM's go with the Handbook recommendations,it will save you money on parts that you will serve you well.
But if you want the most of your engine, go with aftermarket parts.
 
CZLN6":2kh6s379 said:
Howdy Matt and All:

THe total mill cut of .075", when broken apart is .025" for the thicker composite head gasket you will be using- The stock gasket was .025" thick, the new composite type gasket is .050". THe difference of .025". The other part is the .050" cut is to reduce the chambers close to the 52cc chambers on the stock head. So, you, you are reducing the total height of the valve train. The hydraulic lifters can accommodate for about +/- .125" according to FoMoCo. On assembly check the rocker arm contact to the valve tip at several points along the lift cycle. BIll's (wsa111) recommend of on center at half way through the lift cycle makes alot of sense.

On the valve springs, I used stock late model springs on my build, with .030" valve spring shims. I had no expectations to rev my 250 anywhere past 5,000 rpms- at least on purpose. My brother Dennis used 302 exhaust valve on his 200. He revved past 5,000 regularly. Neither of us had any problems. I had a Comp 260 cam. He ran a Clifford 264. Keep in mind that both of these cams were purchased way before VI and Matt's resources. Bill's recommend for cam and springs with dampers makes alot of sense for a today build. Your choice.

Good luck and best wishes. Keep us posted.

Adios, David
Click to expand...

Hi David,

What’s the total amount a head can safely be milled? I want to say I recall the total being .090”. And what was the original thickness? I will have my machinist measure to be extra safe. I’m not sure if the Head has ever been milled. Do the cuts measure out to each .010” of cut reduces 2cc? That would add up per your .050” cut advice.

I may have sourced an adjustable rocker arm set. Is the ratio on these the same as my 68/78 set of 1.5:1? If so, I’m not sure if the $100 plus shipping is worth it, unless it will get me to the higher ratio. It’s a set from a 144/170, I should have the casting number soon.

Cheers,
Matthew
 
Howdy:

No, the ratio of the mill cut of .010" per 2 ccs is an estimate. Chambers and castings vary so it is best to measure chamber volumes to be accurate. However, we've use this ratio many times and it is always close.

We use .090" as a max for milling, however, I have talked to one builder that milled to .100" on a '68 head, with no problems, so far. It is said that later heads, '78 and later, are of a thinner casting so past .090" is at your own risk.

Early adjustable rocker are 1.5:1. The plus is that you can adjust for lifter preload to get the most from the cam and lessen lifter pump up and valve float. The down side is that they weigh slightly more.

Adios, David
 
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