1967 Mustang stalled out now won't start

Good afternoon gents! I have a conundrum and was looking to get some insight from the experts here for a plan of action.

I was driving to work this morning, going about 45 mph, and the car completely stalled on me. My first assumption is that it is a fuel issue, either the fuel pump or clogged filter. Car turns over fine and I had about 3/4 of a tank in it. I'm on a break at work and looking to build a plan of "what else could it be" if it is something besides a fuel issue, or something deeper with the fuel system besides bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.

Little about the car
19767 200ci with a rebuilt t5
Classic inlines dsii with dyna module
Original autolite 1100 carburetor with the secondary vacuum advance sealed off.
New starter solenoid
2 days on the oil change

Thank y'all very much for the suggestions

Well for starters I'd disconnect the fuel line @ the carb and stick it into an empty soda bottle. Crank it for a bit and see how much gas it pumps. Would think maybe a cup in 15-20 sec (just a guess).
Would also check for spark (after all gas has evaporated). May have a bad distributor module.

Happy hunting!
Terry

"...some insight from the experts..."
that's not me but:
did U hit/break/dislodge something when changing the oil?
How many mi or (how much time) since then?

Howdy:

If the engine stopped suddenly- no sputtering at all, my guess would be that the problem is electrical. IF it sputtered then then quit, fuel supply could be the issue.

I had a similar adventure when the stock FoMoCo module suddenly quit.

Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Adios, David

You might also try a known good coil.Coils have been known to quit without warning.Ask me how I know .
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Update to my previous problem. I was getting fuel at the carb, but no spark. I used both an inline tester light for the spark plug and pulled the spark plug out of the block to check, no dice. I checked to make sure that the coil was getting power with the ignition switch in run and I get 6 volts at the coil (I am using a Classic Inlines kit that still uses a resistor between the switched 12 volt line and the ignition coil to get 6 volts at the coil) and when I crank the engine, I am getting 6 volts at the coil as well. My father and I took apart the ignition system 2 or 3 times and put it back together with no luck. First time was just to make sure I had good connections, 2nd and 3rd times was with the original coil and a brand new performance coil. 4th time was with the Inferno Coil that I had been using. After the 4th time, it fired up with no issues, no idea why it all of a sudden started to work. Drove it again for about 5 miles, had the same thing happens. Was going down a fairly steep incline, enough so that I had the cluch in and was just idling down I was going about 25 mph. I succeeded in restarting it in the roll initially, however it stalled out a 2nd and 3rd time, after the 3rd time it wouldn't restart. Still turns over strong. It has been about a week since this most recent incident and I haven't been able to get the car restarted.

The pickup coil in the DS11 should ohm out between 400-800 ohms. I would scrap the inferno & run one of my HEI modules on a heat sink & get a MSD Blaster 11 or 111 coil. Another option if the pickup reads ok is go with a MSD 6-AL ignition box.
However you need to run a full 12V for these units.
Ford Duraspark ignition box & coil to match with box.
If you don't have power steering get one of my HEI distributors.
Use a hair dryer to heat the various components in the ignition system. If It is a heat related issue & that may help you in the diagnosis.

CZLN6":2t858a0i said:

Howdy:

If the engine stopped suddenly- no sputtering at all, my guess would be that the problem is electrical. IF it sputtered then then quit, fuel supply could be the issue.

I had a similar adventure when the stock FoMoCo module suddenly quit.

Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

+1

Make sure you have spark first. There are alot of ways to do it, like if it won't fire/sputter/"try to run" with a tiny bit of gas or starter spray down the throat it probably isn't a fuel issue.

wsa111":2yc7mffc said:

The pickup coil in the DS11 should ohm out between 400-800 ohms. I would scrap the inferno & run one of my HEI modules on a heat sink & get a MSD Blaster 11 or 111 coil. Another option if the pickup reads ok is go with a MSD 6-AL ignition box.
However you need to run a full 12V for these units.
Ford Duraspark ignition box & coil to match with box.
If you don't have power steering get one of my HEI distributors.
Use a hair dryer to heat the various components in the ignition system. If It is a heat related issue & that may help you in the diagnosis.

Click to expand...

Any reason why those components vice DSii kit from CI that is currently installed?

Sure, all my options run a full 12 volt power supply.
The MSD-6al is a multi-spark capacitive discharge unit supply 3 sparks up till 3K rpms.
Better idle & less chance of a misfire.
Many products by performance distributors are not of the best design or quality.
The DS11 you purchased is just a cardone reman. with a full length bushing. I have redone several of these & the bushing is too loose a fit in the housing. Result the bushing will slide down in the distributor housing.
I fix them by pinning them to the housing with a set screw. It short they are junk.

Continuing to knock out what parts may be bad, just finished checking the ignition module at O'Reilly's. Had them test it for about 30 minutes, still checked good on all tests. On to the next part.

I hope you find the defective part. Bill