Operating temperature

I had similar issues with my 200. It would overheat, so I stopped driving it during the summer (it’s 95-110 where I live outside LA). I came across a Mustang and Ford article about cooling systems and came across Evans Waterless Coolant. I never took the plunge because the cost is anything but cheap (flush kit is about $100 and the coolant runs about $45/gallon). However, after getting sick of the overheating, I started talking to some other Mustang owners and hot rodders (they mentioned the waterless coolant as well) and after asking if it’s all it’s cracked up to be, I was simply told, “It’s worth it’s weight in gold.”

I took the plunge and did a 6 cyl AC fan, 2 row aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, and converted it over. I haven’t had an overheating issue since. What sold me on the coolant wasn’t it’s heat transfer capability (it’s on par with 100% water), but the fact it doesn’t build pressure either. The hottest I’ve been able to get my car to run is 192 with a infrared gun point right at the thermostat housing. By the time the coolant hits the lower rad hose, it’s around 174. No need for an overflow tank or anything. It sounds like snake oil, but I’m right here with the people who told me about it. It’s absolutely worth it. I’ve attached a link to the article as well. Hope this helps.

-Chris

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/i ... -problems/
 
OK, finally got it.
This and other threads did not cite any solid figures (as I recall).
Thanks to the link:
" Vintage Mustang engines like to operate around 180-200 degrees F coolant temperature.
Later model engines like 195-200 degrees F for proper electronic engine control function. "
 
Update

I ended up getting a new three row radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and sending unit. I took it for a little drive around town and it did well. Definitely running cooler, but not staying steady on the gauge.

My next step is taking it for a run on the highway and see what happens.

I’m also planning on making a shroud and getting a real temperature gauge.

I almost bought a inferred temperature tool, but decided to put the money towards the new parts.

I will update with more test runs later.
 
"... but not staying steady..."
air (bubble) in system ?
 
Cday07":1qrwxz5f said:
I had similar issues with my 200. It would overheat, so I stopped driving it during the summer (it’s 95-110 where I live outside LA). I came across a Mustang and Ford article about cooling systems and came across Evans Waterless Coolant. I never took the plunge because the cost is anything but cheap (flush kit is about $100 and the coolant runs about $45/gallon). However, after getting sick of the overheating, I started talking to some other Mustang owners and hot rodders (they mentioned the waterless coolant as well) and after asking if it’s all it’s cracked up to be, I was simply told, “It’s worth it’s weight in gold.”

I took the plunge and did a 6 cyl AC fan, 2 row aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, and converted it over. I haven’t had an overheating issue since. What sold me on the coolant wasn’t it’s heat transfer capability (it’s on par with 100% water), but the fact it doesn’t build pressure either. The hottest I’ve been able to get my car to run is 192 with a infrared gun point right at the thermostat housing. By the time the coolant hits the lower rad hose, it’s around 174. No need for an overflow tank or anything. It sounds like snake oil, but I’m right here with the people who told me about it. It’s absolutely worth it. I’ve attached a link to the article as well. Hope this helps.

-Chris

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/i ... -problems/
Click to expand...
I saw this mentioned on the Studebakers Drivers Club. Some of them swear by it, others say it aint worth it.
 
cheep ol sob here...Y would some 1 need it? As engineered they R fine. Even at longterm idle (cops, cabs).
It seems to me that this is a solution for a real problem, but what would the problem B? (serious, not sarcastic Q).

Can't fit a big enuff radiator in there,
Timing so advanced running hot,
No fan shroud, fan not "1/2 init / 1/2 out"
Thermostat issue,
coolant 100% H2O,
air bubble,
cavitation,
clog (water jacket/radiator).

Of all these (plez list more if able) only the 3rd seems challenging for us moders.
What am I missing? :unsure:
 
Like Chad said, it shouldn't need it. I have a 250 @ ~9.6:1 compression crammed into a little doghouse(the early 61-64 smaller doghouse at that) in between the seats and it never overheats. The head may be plugged up or the water pump is damaged if you are still having problems.
 
Update

Took it out on the highway today and it did well. Here’s a picture of it while going up a slite hill and the outside temperature was 93*

The new water pump was made out of aluminum, which was a surprise to me. It had the name Gateson it and I got it from NAPA.
 
GMB is nother that we like.

Congrats...
 
CZLN6 said:
Howdy All:

Matthew- Here in Idaho with hot summers and cold winters I used a 180 degree thermo in the summer and 195 in the winter. Also changed oil to seasonally appropriate weight oils. Stock radiator was rebuilt and new hoses all around.

tdlund- I'd check the accuracy of the stock heat gauge first thing. What carb are you using?

Adios, David
Click to expand...
 
Congrats, man. You finally got it running. Was worried because I felt same ish here and was afraid this thread won't help.
 
Howyoudo":2xipvgl5 said:
Congrats, man. You finally got that running. Was worried because I felt same ish here and was afraid this thread won't help.
Click to expand...
Welcome aboard.
Glad to see at least he got it running.
 
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