67 Mustang - Other Carb Options

thestang

Well-known member
Hey guys

I am tired of my new friggin autolite 1100 it sucks horribly. What is another bolt on carb that i can use?
 
I have a 170 YF I'll trade ya - may B (C sig below).
(y)
 
Howdy the sting:

Which 1100? What distributor are you using? What are the symptoms of your carb?

Adios, David
 
Hi, Why don't you like it? Why did you change the old carb? How does it run? You should do a compression test and make sure the ignition system is in top shape before trashing a carb. Good luck
 
I want more power. Also i want a carb that would be able to handle boost. My carb is new but its just sucha pain in the ass to get the car to run smooth.

Is the YF 170 better?
 
CZLN6":3i4xh1ws said:
Howdy the sting:

Which 1100? What distributor are you using? What are the symptoms of your carb?

Adios, David

It just doesnt run smooth no matter how many times i tune it. Its okaaaaay at best now but still feels like i can get more out of a carb. Its still a little rough especially when i first start the car
 
thestang":3gzc7eqp said:
a carb that would be able to handle boost. My carb is new but its just sucha pain...to get the car to run smooth.
Is the YF 170 better?

Echo on David's Qs.
+ what yr & engine. What R the symptoms? what have U tried? More details plez...will U do the wrk?

we have a Turbo forum here - ck 'Index'. After this runs properly possibly go there but if serious U can do both (build NOW towards that).
 
fuel filter'd B the easiest ck.
thestang":18j1njxy said:
Can an autolite 1100 handle boost? Its a single barrel set up!?
we have a Turbo forum here - ck 'Index'.
the tech archive above @ the big blue box/crossed screwdrives/wrench may help U.

Yes it'll take some boost.
These motors run nice w/just a few # (5 - 7).
Some do alota motor work'n run quite higher...

U may wanna 2v carb...read up, do some research ('tech archive', the "Ford 6 Performance Handbook")
C'mon back...
:beer:
 
I am not sure why my car runs a littke rough esoecially when in gear and stopped when it moves its fine. Also when it first starts it sucks but after a few seconds its good to go.
 
Howdy Back theStang:

The symptoms you describe are typical of a vacuum leak or a burned valve(s). A vacuum gauge and a compression test would confirm or eliminate those as the cause of your engines symptoms.

When you say you have a "New" Autolite 1100 I'm confused. Autolite hasn't made new carbs since 1969. You probably mean you bought a rebuilt 1100 from someone. Are you sure that it is compatible with your distributor? Does it have a Spark Control Valve?

As to replacement carbs for your '67 200 with an automatic trans, that is a direct bolt-on, that is capable of accepting a turbo charge setup, iscompatible with a Load-o-Matic distributor, that is better than an Autolite 1100- I know of none. All possible are going to require linkage, fuel line and air cleaner adaptation and a distributor upgrade. The "Go-to" stock-type upgrade would be a Carter YF. They came in various sizes and cfms. IIWIYS, I be thinking of going to a Carter RBS. Both of these would require a distributor upgrade to a '68 and later system that would match the carbs ported vacuum system. The RBS is rated at 215 cfm and is shorter than other one barrel carbs to accomodate either a flow-through or pull-through turbo system.

Again, If I were in your shoes, I'd start with a vacuum gauge check. It is cheap and easy to do. IF it shows a strong, steady vacuum signal you've just eliminated the possibility of a vacuum leak and a burned valve leak. If it show a bouncing or weak vacuum reading, you will need to look further before blaming the carb.

It would sure help us in helping you diagnose if we knew more about your situation. Good luck and best wishes.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":2ympwrzz said:
Howdy Back theStang:

The symptoms you describe are typical of a vacuum leak or a burned valve(s). A vacuum gauge and a compression test would confirm or eliminate those as the cause of your engines symptoms.

When you say you have a "New" Autolite 1100 I'm confused. Autolite hasn't made new carbs since 1969. You probably mean you bought a rebuilt 1100 from someone. Are you sure that it is compatible with your distributor? Does it have a Spark Control Valve?

As to replacement carbs for your '67 200 with an automatic trans, that is a direct bolt-on, that is capable of accepting a turbo charge setup, iscompatible with a Load-o-Matic distributor, that is better than an Autolite 1100- I know of none. All possible are going to require linkage, fuel line and air cleaner adaptation and a distributor upgrade. The "Go-to" stock-type upgrade would be a Carter YF. They came in various sizes and cfms. IIWIYS, I be thinking of going to a Carter RBS. Both of these would require a distributor upgrade to a '68 and later system that would match the carbs ported vacuum system. The RBS is rated at 215 cfm and is shorter than other one barrel carbs to accomodate either a flow-through or pull-through turbo system.

Again, If I were in your shoes, I'd start with a vacuum gauge check. It is cheap and easy to do. IF it shows a strong, steady vacuum signal you've just eliminated the possibility of a vacuum leak and a burned valve leak. If it show a bouncing or weak vacuum reading, you will need to look further before blaming the carb.

It would sure help us in helping you diagnose if we knew more about your situation. Good luck and best wishes.

Adios, David


Which vacuum gauge do you recommend and where do i connect it (which vacuum line)?
 
Your auto parts store will likely loan you one for free. Hook it to the 1/4" fpt manifold vacuum port on the side of the log. You may have to tee into a hose if you have something hooked up there. Otherwise you need a 1/4" mpt x 1/8" barb fitting, or some way to get there.
 
auto prts store
Advance, PepBoys, AutoZone, O'Rielieys, have the guage behind the counter - may charge 4 it but U get the $ back when bringing back.
I usta go out to the curb wid da guy (5 yrs@AutoZ) 2 show em how to use it...

(hughnewsone - C post #2)

a la David above: LOM/SCV match? C big blue box above @ crossed screwddriver/wrench; "the Handbook" (frm Matt at vintage inlines dot com)
 
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