67 Mustang - Tuning Autolite 1100

thestang

Well-known member
Guys

I need your help tuning my autolite 1100. What i was going off of was the sound of the roughness going away but clearly i am an idiot. What specs are there for the autolite 1100 as far as the idle air mixture screw is concerned
 
thestang":3omi49mn said:
Guys

I need your help tuning my autolite 1100. What i was going off of was the sound of the roughness going away but clearly i am an idiot. What specs are there for the autolite 1100 as far as the idle air mixture screw is concerned

First the carb adjustments is the very last step of a good tune up done in this order. You did state a 1967 year and the car model as a Mustang, I am guessing that it is all stock or does it have has some mods? So some of the base timing settings will be general info. Also assumes that the engine is in good operating condistion all cylinders are equal compression within about 10% of each other. No matter what the carb adjustment though will still be correct with exception of maybe the curb idle RPM specs.

With a stock point type system
1. Spark Plugs are gapped at .034
2. Point gap is set at .024 to .026 for the base generic setting you would want a end up with Dwell setting of 36 Degrees for best results.

With an electronic system it will be different one example.
1. Spark plug gap for a DSII is .044
2. There is no dewel setting

3. Factory Base timing is set to aprox. 6 BTDC for manual trans or 12 degrees BTDC for an auto trans. I usally set these to 8 to 12 degrees depending on locale condistions. If your car happens to have Calif emissions that changes some of the settings too.

4. With the engine now warmed up to operating temp and the choke fully open. Set idle mixture to lean best idle. This done by setting to the highest Idle RPM using a Tach / Dwell meter and you then would turn the mixture screw in a 1/4 turn (leaner).

5. Last set the Curb idle to 500 to 575 RPM for manual trans, 550 to 600 RPM for auto trans in drive with parking brake set, this will usually be 50 to 100 RPM higher when trans is in Neutral or Park.

The order of the settings can make a differance to the final tune this is why the carb settings are last thing. Are you confident that your carb is in good condition and with the float level is set correctly? Hope that is of some help. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":1vv8peo1 said:
thestang":1vv8peo1 said:
Guys

I need your help tuning my autolite 1100. What i was going off of was the sound of the roughness going away but clearly i am an idiot. What specs are there for the autolite 1100 as far as the idle air mixture screw is concerned

First the carb adjustments is the very last step of a good tune up done in this order. You did state a 1967 year and the car model as a Mustang, I am guessing it is all stock or does it have some mods? So some of the base timing settings will be general info. Also assumes that the engine is in good operating condistion all cylinders are equal compression within about 10% of each other. No matter what the carb adjustment though will still be correct with exception of maybe the curb idle RPM specs.

With a stock point type system
1. Spark Plugs are gapped at .034
2. Point gap is set at .024 to .026 for the base generic setting you would want a end up with Dwell setting of 36 Degrees for best results.

With an electronic system it will be different one example.
1. Spark plug gap for a DSII is .044
2. There is no dewel setting

3. Factory Base timing is set to aprox. 6 BTDC for manual trans or 12 degrees BTDC for an auto trans. I usally set these to 8 to 12 degrees depending on locale condistions. If your car happens to have Calif emissions that changes some of the settings too.

4. With the engine now warmed up to operating temp and the choke fully open. Set idle mixture to lean best idle. This done by setting to the highest Idle RPM using a Tach / Dwell meter and you then would turn the mixture screw in a 1/4 turn (leaner).

5. Last set the Curb idle to 500 to 575 RPM for manual trans, 550 to 600 RPM for auto trans in drive with parking brake set, this will usually be 50 to 100 RPM higher when trans is in Neutral or Park.

The order of the settings can make a differance to the final tune this is why the carb settings are last thing. Are you confident that your carb is in good condition and with the float level is set correctly? Hope that is of some help. Good luck (y) :nod:


Wow this is very detailed. A couple questions what do you mean by pointed gap?

Also what is a dwell setting?
 
If your still using the stock Ford Mustang (1967) Distributor it will have a set of points and a condenser inside under the Distribitor Cap. The points are a set of contacts operated by a six lobe cam that opens and closes the points, at the highest part of the cam the point gap is set at about .025. In its simplest terms the set of points are just a simple switch that causes the secondary coil windings to operate and togeather with the Distribitors Rotor directs the spark through a Distribitor Cap tower to a connected plug wire to fire that particular number cylinders spark plug (in the firing order). After you get the engine running this point setting is then checked for accuracy with a dwell meter ideally you would want 36 degrees for best Performace. Hope that answers your questions. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Hi, as Bubba mentioned, if any of the tune up parts are worn, or the engine is worn, you are not ready to adjust the carb.
You also need to check the distributor shaft for wear, by taking the rotor off and trying to wiggle the shaft. Also run the engine at night and check for arcing between the spark plug wires. Also look for a vacuum leak by checking each rubber hose connection or spraying around the carb and hoses with carb cleaner.
Good luck
 
I am honestly scared to touch the distributor! I have had issues in the past with Timing.

Whenever i turn hard right the car cuts off and only makign a right. Please help!
 
thestang":1v56teof said:
I am honestly scared to touch the distributor! I have had issues in the past with Timing.

Whenever i turn hard right the car cuts off and only makign a right. Please help!

There can be several things that can cause this. First thing to check is the condition of the carbs float and that the float setting / wet fuel level is correct. Other things are the Fuel filter, trash in fuel tank, a bad fuel pick up sock, old rubber fuel lines that are cracked allowing air, weak fuel pump that’s not giving correct amount of volume. Good luck. (y) :nod:
 
"... Please help!..."
We can only offer so much. At some point U take the bull by the horns or give it to a pro.
Give it a try, we can help frm here,
/OR/
not.
It is a system'n one prt effects all the others. Some Xs a carb problem is really a timing problem.
The more U try, the more U understand, & this develops confidence...

Keep talkin, we're here.
:nod:
 
I'd say 'top of this page', so tell us where you're confused or missed something.

"...clearly i am an idiot..."
I don't believe that.

Do U have space, time, tools, and what's the amount of ur experience?
 
Howdy Back All:

Thestang- For the die on hard right turns- I'd suggest that you start by checking the float level (As Bubba suggested), float armature (making sure that it can swing freely).

Does the engine die or just lose power? Has it always done this or is this something new?

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":1uz91gbb said:
Howdy Back All:

Thestang- For the die on hard right turns- I'd suggest that you start by checking the float level (As Bubba suggested), float armature (making sure that it can swing freely).

Does the engine die or just lose power? Has it always done this or is this something new?

Adios, David

Its been like this not sure from when. It dies sometimes but
Loses power mainly. I ordered an electric fuel pump to assist the mechnical

Any ideas? Also how
Do
I check the float level where is that on the carb?
 
The rule of thumb is when you pull the top of the carb off and flip it over, the float as it rests on the needle and seat should be level/parallel with the gasket surface of the carb top. If when you do that the float is high(upside down) you are running the bowl lean, if it's 'low' you are running it rich with a chance of flooding. Also be very carefull when tightening the screws that hold the carb top on. 1100's are notorious for warped tops b/c of over tightening the screws.
 
Mike's Carbs (rebuild kits) on-line may have a spec_ put a meas. gauge on it when upside dwn'n meas. from required point to bottom (actuallu top cuz yer upside dwn) of float the required spec.
He may have a vid on a rebuild &the correct spec (mm or inches).
 
Econoline":25m49ybr said:
The rule of thumb is when you pull the top of the carb off and flip it over, the float as it rests on the needle and seat should be level/parallel with the gasket surface of the carb top. If when you do that the float is high(upside down) you are running the bowl lean, if it's 'low' you are running it rich with a chance of flooding. Also be very carefull when tightening the screws that hold the carb top on. 1100's are notorious for warped tops b/c of over tightening the screws.

I dont get it. Should i take my carb off? Also how can i tell if the float isnt right and how
Do i fix it?
 
Frist check out some the appropriate carb videos below to see if you want to tackle the job. It's not to hard to pull the carb top off on the vechical but if your more comfortable doing it off the car then pull the carb. Good luck (y) :nod:

Complete set of Autolite 1100 Carb rebuild, adjustments, and the carb trouble shooting, videos

Autolite 1100 Carb Teardown
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eAirfexkMVY

Carb Rebuild of the Float Bowl Assembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=96wm8kcTAYI

Check ball placement
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Autolite Float Assembly and Needle and Seat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgc21iYKyY

Power Valve Repair
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R8XilvWkP3k

Power Valve
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i2eWyUbCtJU

Accelerator Pump
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1yp6SABzVG8

Premium Carb Kit Parts PK111
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BMMwVjVKbbg

Carb Kit parts
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZs5Nd9joE

Carb Kit 436
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n8L2RfnG_90

Flooding and Trouble Shooting
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QrvsdDucIXE

On Bench settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fVbZ1W1oNxA

Carb Settings
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autolit ... p_416.html

Vent Rod Adjustment
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Choke Thermostat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A9Tkb_hTlRI

Choke settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaDyq137YGI

Autolite 1100 Electric Choke conversion kit available from V.I.
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -choke-kit

New Universal Replacement Carb (these are available from V.I.) for the Autolite 1100
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UFRPh_TsluQ
 
thestang":w290ytvt said:
Econoline":w290ytvt said:
The rule of thumb is when you pull the top of the carb off and flip it over, the float as it rests on the needle and seat should be level/parallel with the gasket surface of the carb top. If when you do that the float is high(upside down) you are running the bowl lean, if it's 'low' you are running it rich with a chance of flooding. Also be very carefull when tightening the screws that hold the carb top on. 1100's are notorious for warped tops b/c of over tightening the screws.
I dont get it. Should i take my carb off? Also how can i tell if the float isnt right and how
Do i fix it?
No.
About 6 screws remove the top of the carb, flit it over, Measure 1 & 3/32 in frm gasket surface to top of float. Bend tab as appropreate to achieve this.
Ie go to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgc21iYKyY
as cited above for vid.
 
chad":10bpzwia said:
thestang":10bpzwia said:
Econoline":10bpzwia said:
The rule of thumb is when you pull the top of the carb off and flip it over, the float as it rests on the needle and seat should be level/parallel with the gasket surface of the carb top. If when you do that the float is high(upside down) you are running the bowl lean, if it's 'low' you are running it rich with a chance of flooding. Also be very carefull when tightening the screws that hold the carb top on. 1100's are notorious for warped tops b/c of over tightening the screws.
I dont get it. Should i take my carb off? Also how can i tell if the float isnt right and how
Do i fix it?
No.
About 6 screws remove the top of the carb, flit it over, Measure 1 & 3/32 in frm gasket surface to top of float. Bend tab as appropreate to achieve this.
Ie go to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgc21iYKyY
as cited above for vid.


Nice video makes it simple where do
I get a tool to measure 1 3/32 lmao
 
Guys i have a quick question regarding the choke bexause my car runs good sometimes and shit sometimes trying to figure this out.

As i was watching the above video “Choke Setting” he said its suppose to heat up and slowly open. Well i have my choke open meaning i twisted the knob till it was open ans then tighted the screws is this wrong? I dont think my car would start otherwise or what can i do?

Please help
 
bubba22349":2vn0340l said:
Frist check out some the appropriate carb videos below to see if you want to tackle the job. It's not to hard to pull the carb top off on the vechical but if your more comfortable doing it off the car then pull the carb. Good luck (y) :nod:

Complete set of Autolite 1100 Carb rebuild, adjustments, and the carb trouble shooting, videos

Autolite 1100 Carb Teardown
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eAirfexkMVY

Carb Rebuild of the Float Bowl Assembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=96wm8kcTAYI

Check ball placement
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Autolite Float Assembly and Needle and Seat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgc21iYKyY

Power Valve Repair
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R8XilvWkP3k

Power Valve
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i2eWyUbCtJU

Accelerator Pump
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1yp6SABzVG8

Premium Carb Kit Parts PK111
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BMMwVjVKbbg

Carb Kit parts
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZs5Nd9joE

Carb Kit 436
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n8L2RfnG_90

Flooding and Trouble Shooting
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QrvsdDucIXE

On Bench settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fVbZ1W1oNxA

Vent Rod Adjustment
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Choke Thermostat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A9Tkb_hTlRI

Choke settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaDyq137YGI

Autolite 1100 Electric Choke conversion kit available from V.I.
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -choke-kit

New Universal Replacement Carb (these are available from V.I.) for the Autolite 1100
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UFRPh_TsluQ


Guys i have a quick question regarding the choke bexause my car runs good sometimes and doggie doo sometimes trying to figure this out.

As i was watching the above video “Choke Setting” he said its suppose to heat up and slowly open. Well i have my choke open meaning i twisted the knob till it was open ans then tighted the screws is this wrong? I dont think my car would start otherwise or what can i do?

Please help
 
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