Click Here -> Please Consider Making a PayPal Contribution to the FordSix Forum!
2018 Contributors:
StarDiero75, curts56, DannyG, B RON CO, wsa111, Captainslow42, falconcritter
Econoline, THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER, 95FordFleetside, turbo6, Max_Effort, WorldChampGramp
cr_bobcat, C.S.Designs, pmuller9, gus91326, rwbrooks50, rocklord, drag-200stang, Big64my79Effie, CNC-Dude, gb500

2019 Contributors:
NJwpod, 1strodeo, mightynorseman, maxtrux, 6d7coupe, broncr, Phase3, 68Flareside240, bmbm40,
mustang6, WorldChampGramp, justintendo, BigBlue94, ags290, motorsickle1130, Rooster, ousooner919, ethanperry

Unknown->> M.Ketterer, T.Smith, J.Myers, P.McIntire - Please PM me (1966Mustang) and lemme know who you are!

Correct distributor.

Moderator: Mod Squad

User avatar
falcon_master
Registered User
Posts: 248
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 1:25 pm

Correct distributor.

Post #1 by falcon_master » Tue May 22, 2018 10:04 pm

Hi everyone. In my quest to solve some of the shortcomings of my 64 144 six I was thinking if i measured my oil pump drive shaft and found that it is the later 5/16 model that is more universal could I install this dual advance stock distributor to get rid of the crappy load o magic operation thanks everyone. And side question does a 64 block have hydraulic or solid lifters. The pamphlets, specs, and shop manual all say 64 blocks have hydraulic lifters thanks.
Jarod
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz- ... /overview/
Junior year high school AFJROTC cadet and car enthusiast. Likes all things ford and engines of any company. 64 falcon 2dr sedan,144CI and 3spd column shift. estimated 124,000 miles. Resurrected after sitting outside for 18 years, In process fixing for use as daily driver YouTube channel for repairs coming soon. “Old cars may break but are never broken”-RCR

CZLN6
VIP Member
Posts: 3318
Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2002 11:07 am
Location: Idaho Falls, Id
Contact:

Re: Correct distributor.

Post #2 by CZLN6 » Tue May 22, 2018 10:25 pm

Howdy Jarod:

Yes, that is the 2nd generation distributor. 1st was the Load-o-Matic. FYI- that distributor vacuum advance will not work, as designed with your Autolite 1100 with a Spark Control Valve {SCV} controlled vacuum signal. The mechanical advance will function as designed. For the vacuum advance to work properly you would need to modify your carb to eliminate the SCV and create a ported vacuum signal to the vacuum canister. OR, find a later model 1100 from 1968 or 1969. Those years have a ported vacuum signal to match this new distributor.

What makes you stock LoM distributor "Crappy"? Working as designed it makes an adequate companion with your stock carb with SCV.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

User avatar
chad
Registered User
Posts: 4646
Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:51 am
Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

Correct distributor and Carb needed for '64

Post #3 by chad » Wed May 23, 2018 12:12 am

I 'clicked' on the Summit add link once on the catalogue page to reveal the dizzy 2B a '63. The break yr of '67/68 means U need the SCV to match the LOM as U R below that break. R U familiar with these 2 abbreviated terms? What they mean in a feedback system? Do U have matching parts now? (if 'not' may B that's Y U got the "crappy" goin on now). Will U try to Upgrade (both must B done together)? All Q U need to consider.

Ck "the Handbook" or "tech archive" at big blue box above w/crossed screw driver/ wrench.
8)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

User avatar
falcon_master
Registered User
Posts: 248
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 1:25 pm

Re: Correct distributor.

Post #4 by falcon_master » Wed May 23, 2018 12:46 am

Thanks for the replies, I was talking about replacing my dizzy since I know that the load o magic is slow to respond to advance requirements of the engine but I forgot that since it’s a stock engine it’ll be fine until I at least do some upgrades I just thought It was a pretty cheap upgrade to improve performance. I’ve been toying around with what I’m going to do with powertrain upgrades and I keep going back and forth between swapping a 200 in or keeping my 144. On the one hand I like being the extra oddballl who kept the little 144 and shows that these things can still kick but while on the other hand I want the extra potential of a 7 main crank and increased bore and stroke of the 200 so it’s kinda up in the air right now. If I keep the 144 though what I’ll probably do is an experiment and try cutting off that log manifold having it milled smooth and welding on a custom intake that’s more aero and sticking a 2bbl carb on it. I guess I’ll just have to get it going and find out what I want. I’ll stsrt making and posting videos on the progress and some kinda DIY videos on Sunday or next Monday depending on my schedule.
Junior year high school AFJROTC cadet and car enthusiast. Likes all things ford and engines of any company. 64 falcon 2dr sedan,144CI and 3spd column shift. estimated 124,000 miles. Resurrected after sitting outside for 18 years, In process fixing for use as daily driver YouTube channel for repairs coming soon. “Old cars may break but are never broken”-RCR

User avatar
chad
Registered User
Posts: 4646
Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:51 am
Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

up grade - 1st things 1st

Post #5 by chad » Wed May 23, 2018 9:03 am

I like the staged set of mods in 'the Handbook' as U can drive & collect money while 'developing" (to restore &/or modify).

The vehicle needs to B running in it's top form 1st.

That will take awhile in ur case. U may need to get it closer to home so U can drive (consistently), assess, and 'tinker'. As U go along - learning AND saving $ to do the restoration you will have to study and decide on where U wanna go - many many many considerations and final end goals. 1) ID all that U have right now. 2) Learn what IT can do. 3) Collect all the info U can. 4) Then decide. and Last) Then start the changes and continue to the end goal WITHOUT any side adventures at that point. As I have said here B4 - I've seen too many hack jobs where a start was made, more info collected & the plan changes, take off again in a new direction, continue then go a different way, etc. A waste of time AND money. The auto is a system and one change effects the whole.

A quick look at our index has helped me C some (all?) of the directions one could go in: (as U mention) log-ot-omy w/side draft DOCE or motorcycle carbs (my fave - 6 Mukni), Offy w/3 carbs, Lynx-style intake;
turbo (my fav 4 a 144), super ch, NO;
EFI/SFI (I just tried to get a list 4 the SFI & the membership was very helpful), use of the VI alu head and on and on...
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

63falconATX
Registered User
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 4:16 pm
Location: Just outside of Coupland, Texas
Contact:

Re: Correct distributor.

Post #6 by 63falconATX » Wed May 23, 2018 3:31 pm

falcon_master wrote:<snip> shortcomings of my 64 144 six I was thinking if i measured my oil pump drive shaft and found that it is the later 5/16 model that <snip>


"IF" is a tall order in this context. IF it were a 144 with a 5/16" hex drive then someone did some modding on that 'ol block and swapped out the oil pump as well.

Yank that dizzy and report back... then let us know if you wanna do that mod yourself. It is very straight forward, swap oil pump(or rebuild with 5/16" drive) and 5/16" intermediate drive and ream the opening in the block for the newer dizzy.

At one time I measured both and had the diff but I have forgotten. It's not much and could be done with an adjustable reamer set of the correct range. Final bore should be 1.3"

User avatar
wsa111
FSP Moderator
Posts: 3200
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2004 5:28 pm
Location: South Carolina
Contact:

Re: Correct distributor.

Post #7 by wsa111 » Wed May 23, 2018 5:10 pm

There is a tech article on how to convert a loadamatic carb. to ported vacuum. Then you can use a later distributor with centrifugal & vacuum advance. HEI's, DS11's & DS1 depending on your choice.
A properly set up distributor will wake up any engine.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6al & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
Image

User avatar
chad
Registered User
Posts: 4646
Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:51 am
Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

Correct distributor, up grade ignition & carb

Post #8 by chad » Wed May 23, 2018 8:16 pm

let's have the +/- of the choice.
ream for new dizzy size
/OR/
convert the carb.o0OOPPps, wait
:oops:
Forgot, he'll hafta ream (get those measurements quick) and rather than convert the carb just get the same modern carb as dizzy (DSII). It opens all the choices the 144 never had on carb choice.
Couldn't the "log hole" B opened to accept the later yrs production carbs bigger base hole/butterfly (a '68+ 170 or 200's YF or 1100)? He could jet down the 32/36 (just did so on a 250 Toyota motor) for a nice lill daily driver? A modern cam might take the project to conclusion depending...
:)

Ahhh, I still like the turbo 4 the 144 :lol:
a lill 1 outta the like szed VW or Japanese?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

63falconATX
Registered User
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 4:16 pm
Location: Just outside of Coupland, Texas
Contact:

Re: Correct distributor.

Post #9 by 63falconATX » Thu May 24, 2018 8:49 am

Funny that, since I started my project on the '63.5 with the 200/T5 and cast iron Aussi, in the background I've been searching for the perfect 2dr '60-'62 144 manual falcon for just such a project. That will be next. Take the 144 and log head as far as I can go using shop tools, my hands and some new found thinking rather than writing big checks for bought performance.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: chad and 16 guests