144 turbo candidate?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Well here I am again guys. Asking another crazy idea. Don't worry this idea I am proposing would only be after I got the engine running and all the kinks worked out but eventually would a 144 make a good turbo candidate. I think it has potential because it has a tiny 2.5 inch stroke and a therefore lighter rotating mass. But the downside and a big one in my opinion is reliability with only 4 mains. Can someone explain because the falcon hand book says the 7 main hells control harmful vibrations. I don't understand what it means by that. Does the 4 main crank flex to much. I just don't want the added stress of a turbo snapping a crank or it to fail in some other way. I'm still thinking about putting that 200 4 main crank to make that 181 stroker but ik not sure. I might just go to a 200 for potential power but I like this cute 144 I just want it to last not blow up.
 
the simple answer is that any engine can be turbocharged. you just have to match the turbo to the engine.

as to your question abut 4 mains vs seven, either one will do just fine unless you are going to run a lot of boost, meaning at least 20psi, and a lot of rpms, meaning at least 8000, regularly. chances are you are going to build a street motor, so you just need to concentrate on building a solid bottom end.

the biggest issue you have is matching the turbo to the engine. you have to match the turbo sizing to the engine, and to the rpm range you are planning to run.

here are three books you need to read before you decide to build a turbo engine;

https://www.amazon.com/Turbochargers-Hu ... bochargers

https://www.amazon.com/Turbochargers-HP ... bochargers

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-High-Perfo ... bochargers

these books will give you plenty of good insight on turbos, how they work, and how to map them for your engine.
 
rbohm":3j1edkbl said:
the simple answer is that any engine can be turbocharged. you just have to match the turbo to the engine...
...these books will give you plenty of good insight on turbos, how they work, and how to map them for your engine.

There is a good advantage to a turbo in these i6 motors w/5 - 7 lb boost. No need to go crazy. No need to pay a machine shop to develop a hi compression engine (they like low).
Plez ck-in at our turbo forum. Consentrate on getting what U have now in good shape. Focus on that. As U learn and get closer to good running condition C what;s needed for this other possibility. Knowing all the components in ur system will not B waisted as U step up to turbo (if that is even the way U go) BUT...
that seems 2 B a long way off right now. Many loose interest on the way & don't even complete the 1st step (a good running current system).

Have U got the rig down to ur home yet? Still 500 mi away frm yr round residence?
 
Even though it's just a 4 main crank, the journal overlap makes this short stroke diamond in the ruff a better candidate. I doubt you'll snap the crank, even with high boost and abuse. The slant 6 guys have to deal with 4 main engines, because that's the only way those engines were made, and the 225 engine has 4.125" stroke. They have made over 600 HP with very few crank failures, so you'll be fine. I'd stick with the stock 144 crank and not worry about trying to stroke it, just keep it simple and add boost.
 
Thanks alot CNC, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. I've just been really worried reading all these comments that the 7 main bearing design is much more sought after and so much better in vibrarions. But the general consensus is the the 4 main will handle it. I will start to piece together a plan. This is not a near future build. And no it is still up here in Colorado and it will stay up here until about the very end of summer. I need to get everything else done so I can drive it because I need to know if this engine needs a rebuild. It's been running awhile now and the blow by is still brutal I mean like I can feel the puffing and see the smoke
 
CNC has seen what happens in sub 10 second long stroke in line sixes at competition lebel.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78154&p=602298#p602298


Having a short 2.5" stroke makes the little 144 esentially the most reliable under rev's. The 170, near to it.


Four bearings are not safety issue.

Turbo it using MPG Mustang

or jdlaugh430's

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=75869


bolt on Chevy TBi with a Thick Film Igntion Ford system off a 1985-1993 Australian Falcon, or a theSame Guy's EDIS MegaJolt ignition. Direct mount the 2-bbl Throttle Body EFi unit to a low compression 200 head, and Boost the living crud out of it.

A little other note.


Ford inveted the stoker engine, far as I'm concerned.

figure1.gif



As long as the basics don't hit the block, crank, camshaft, or come out the block


You can even use aftermarket alloy rods like this, and have them custom made very cheaply to turn your little 144 into a latter day 156 skiff engine.


strok-kit-inst-pic.jpg


You can add a later model aftermarket camshaft which has relief cuts for a stroked crank like the 200 and 250 ran from factory.....and perhaps even a later 170 crank and over bore it from the stock 3.5"

There are pistons, and stock forged conrods around to fit it you can raid. A favorite of mine is to offset grind the 144 crank. Like all small and large sixes, they have a giant 2.124" bearing journal, and Holdens ancient 1963-1987 6 and 4 cylinder engines have a standard 5.25" rod with 0.866 small ends and 1.899" big ends. You machine the crank down 224 thou and the stroke goes up to almost 2.724" stroke crank. Even stock bore 144 engines can turn it into a 157 cube engine with Japanese 89 or 90 mm pistons with a 1.19" deck piston. The limits aren't you bank blance, but your creativity. All that Subarau, Toyota and even Mitsubishi and Mazda stuff had some pistons in the same size as the old little Ford sixes, which came with piston pin sizes that can take other good forged con rod sizes.


With stock 1997-1/2 to 216 Ford Falcon 4.0 pistons of the stock 3.632" size, they are 1.163" tall, run a 0.9112" rod, and you can bore that old 144 right out to 169 cubic inches because early thin wall 144's weren't ever a thinwall block like a later 302 or 351 Ford was. So 132 thou over bores to 3.632 are possible. And there is a host of other pistons that can do the same thing.


The 170 blocks can take well over 280 hp with a four bearing crank.
 
Thanks xctasy for the info. Again makes me feel better with what I have. Just a question I noticed you said that a 170 is almost as good as 144 in terms of reliability under revs. So what would I need to make my 144 a 170 because to me it's common sense if it's almost as reliabil the extra 26 cubes is a no brainer. I'm guessing I need a 170 crank but what about rods I'm guessing the stock 144 won't work so probably 170 rods as well.
 
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