stalling

M

mluck

Well-known member
my car when hot 180 degrees will stall in drive when i stop..will start right up.. and stall at the next stop..i put it in neutral,it stays running..put it in drive and it sometimes stall....i did notice my coil was super hot ...also last year just before putting it away for the winter i put a new fuel pump in and only drove it around the neighborhood..then put it away..could it be a new bad pump..i check all the vacuum line..cleaned the center carb,fresh gas,checked cap....
 
u don't list transmis in sig or Q.
I'm wondering what a vac leak frm there to carb might do?
 
Does it need a tune up? Like double check the timing and ignition and then try and tune the carb. Sounds like maybe throw another coil on there and see. Bad coils can cause all manner of poor idle and performance problems.
 
Pics of your carbs setup?

If you are not running base plates with coolant pass-throughs, or spacers, you could be boiling the fuel in the carbs.
 
frozenrabbit":1q9fk6uw said:
Pics of your carbs setup?

If you are not running base plates with coolant pass-throughs, or spacers, you could be boiling the fuel in the carbs.
Click to expand...
He's got an offy tripower so that ain't gonna happen.!
A vacuum gauge will help with tuning and adjusting the carb and timing.
It might just require a bump in the timing and an idle tweak.
 
i don't think all autos have a vac line connection
 
Could it possibly be a sticking torque coverter? im assuming automatic didnt specify what kind if it has a lock up torque converter and the lock up function isnt releasing all the time every time you come to a stop it kills the car cause its like leaving the car in gear in a manual. once the engine dies theres no long power to the solenoid so it released and the vehicle is fine to start again but can happen at any time, hence why when you leave it in neutral it doesnt happen cause the trans isnt trying to turn the rear wheels. just my theory to throw into the pot :beer:
 
Howdy Mluck and All:

I don't know the Weber one barrels you are using. Does the middle carb have a dash pot like the stock Autolite 1100s for auto trans? Is this a new problem- just since the new fuel pump? or has it been an issue even before the new pump? Try raising the idle speed on the center carb and see what happens.

Since the car is a '67, I'm guessing the trans is a C4?

Cman's thought of a sticking torque converter is interesting.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Just since the new pump...I did replace the coil and the transmission was about a 1/3 quart low...theses are weber 34 ich ..no dash pot...last year I did replace the fuel pump before putting the car to bed for winter...also I had a garage replace a my transmission pan gasket and they did not put type f tranny fluid in,but some multi purpose stuff..I drain that out and replaced it with type f...did go to a car show Sunday about 15 miles away..ran good there and home with no problem..but the temp was in the low 60’s...the day it was acting up was a 101 deg.could it be vapor lock.
 
2 me a side draft (I guess it is) is less prone to vapor lock (freeze out of H20 in gas @ venturi & block esp on hot humid daze) in these i6s due to carb heating frm below. Still its possible.

Concentrate on center carb as suggested above. I hear most "3X" run that as 'primary' other 2 R there toward wot.
 
mount 'remote' - away frm the heat?
don't like it on the block.
 
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