Triple Carbs?

Hi everyone. So I was looking in the falcon handbook and then the tech forums and I saw the tripple carb setup. I read that you can just weld two more carb flanges lm the manifold set up a progressive linkage and Bam a massive power increase. My question to you all is how much is an estimated cost for all of this. And would it be to difficult for me to weld on the flanges as I've never wleded before. And what carburetors would I use. I saw the kit on VI but it says for a flat log manifold only. Thanks everyone.

Soldmy66 did it.

Its easy.


Welding isn't an issue, its about understanding root fusion, and what to use, and how to secure it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFo1e9maQzI



rwbrooks50

Rick found one good way to mate up a triple carb system some years back.









People have been doing welded on 1-7/16" stubs since Ak Miller was a cow boy.



http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/index.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page2.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page3.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page4.html



http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/h2/index.html


This is the HTML version of the file

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/a ... page-4.pdf.

Google automatically generates HTML versions of documents as we crawl the web.


Keeping the exhaust uncut, you can add 1, 2, 3, or 6 carbs

last pic, Oz head? W/the Lynx intake? (no, must B home made)
Ports look too far apart for 'ours'.
Wonder what's on the 2nd bench (behind it).

Welding cast iron wouldn't be a starting point for a first time welder.

Like your enthusiasm, but maybe get the thing out of the weeds first.

Ports could be brazed on with oxy-acetylene, not a great choice, stick welded with nickel electrodes, gas mig welded with stainless wire, or tig welded with nickel rod.

Thing you gotta watch, is heat cycle shock cracking the cast iron. Either has to be welded cold and slow, or the whole head heated to 300-500 degrees fahrenheit or hotter, welded, then from the heated temperature, slowley brought down to ambient temperature. A fast cool will crack.

chad":zbkqvmsm said:

last pic, Oz head? W/the Lynx intake? (no, must B home made)
Ports look too far apart for 'ours'.
Wonder what's on the 2nd bench (behind it).

Click to expand...

Nope. stock early log head with the log whopped off.


Heated up and welded on plate, left to quench, then a Blatt Man or Lynx intake goes right on there.

All log head ectomies have the same port spacings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-slDmQYrKA

I got:
Blattman the athlete and the Blattman the economist,
but no Blatt Man intake...

BTW:
Never seen a log shaved like the ol man in the vid did.
that leaves enuff for anything.

I plan to do something like that but also having the center hole hogged out and have a special adapter made so i can either run the 3x1 or just a 2bbl. For the 2bbl id have to also have covers made for the extra 1bbl holes.

I plan to use 3 glass bowl Holley 1904s (my fave 1 bbl). I also thought about 1940s but i get mixed reviews on them. Carter YFs are common to use on that.

But once you actually get it past the make it move stage, then look into engine performance and upgrades.

I am very excited that for my car club at school we will be doing a 65 200. Im gonna find a 78+head and we're gonna make this thing a beast. And the school will be paying for it too hehe. But the school will own it too . Im gonna look into doing the 2bbl hog out and 2 extra 1bbl spots so we can maximize carb usage without hacking off the log. The hogged out hole will be for a holley 2bbl, then we get an adapter for holley to Weber so we can run 32/36s or 38/38, then with the special made adapter we can have the 1bbl, then we can take the special made covers off and run 3x1.

Good Luck
Ryan