1V Phenolic spacers

dagenham

Well-known member
Been a long time since I've posted anything on here.
My 66 Mustang started running bad on my way home from work. Would not idle at a stop sign but started right back up. I discovered the wooden carb spacer split for whatever reason. Can't complain to much because its been on for a while. So is there a phenolic spacer available for under the autolite 1100 1V? Or am I just back to making a wooden spacer? BTW the spacer was to stop vapor lock and worked great.
 
i thought matt at vintageinlines had them, but i dont see them on his website. you might try contacting him, www.vintageinlines.com and see if he has any, or is planning to get some in. otherwise its back to building your own wooden spacer, or finding someplace in your area that make you a phenolic spacer.
 
try ur same shaper, router or other equipment on corian, MDF (or sim product w/better 'glue') or longer lasting material?
Might B phenolic (& very similar) at hobby, craft, architecture'n craft retailers (I got a sim material @ a woodcrafter/cabinet maker's place).
They won't absorb H20, split'n deform w/tq down & R just as heat resistant (as the wood U used).
Good Luck, let us know how U do...
(y)
 
JackFish":2wzxgc7l said:
You can get small sheets of phenolic on ebay or McMaster Carr.
Love Mc...Metal for the spokes on my steering wheel and other things came form there...always seem to have it and fast shipping. (y)
 
:unsure: You can also go to the cooking utensil section of Wally World or similar store to get one of their cutting boards for a reasonable amount of money.They are large enough that you can enough material for many 1V type carbs.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
I found that the cheap cutting board stuff susceptible to heat and will deform.

If you buy more than you need I would be interested in a small square or two. :unsure:
 
Cheap cutting boards are made of softer material. That's why they warp. You have to use hardwood like maple or ash. My dad does a lot of wood working as a hobby and has plenty of scraps that I can use.
Did some quick searching last night and found a lot of different kinds of phenolic material. Left me confused and unsure. I looked at cool carbs website and they have a plate for the application. Seeing as it is Father's Day I will probably go dads and make another spacer from wood and maybe keep up the search in the meantime.
 
It's really hard on the tools and you definitely want a good respirator but that stuff machines really well. It really stinks and heats up the bits. It cakes the bits, clean them as you go, go slow and have sharp bits/blades. Yellow dust everywhere. If it's thick enough it will hold a bolt well tapped. I've made two spacers out of phenolic including the one I'm using now. This was the first one. I drilled and tapped for the stub out of the side for the stock linkage rod on both of them. The second one was an orientation adapter so it has tapped holes for the carb, I didn't take any pictures of it but it basically looks like all the orientation adapters.

jgDyyS.jpg


[image]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/IKPg3F.jpg[/image]

[image]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/9dL53T.jpg[/image]
 
i'm surprised it holds the bolt long-term (lotta 'wigglin' there as everytime U move the gas peddle stresses). It's just paper'n resin.
Well, if we made a 65 foot motor sailer outta 'c-flex'n resin I guess it's alot stronger than I realize...

Bakelite, I think the 1st plastic, is that lill blk choke coil housing back'o the carb ; and this, phenolic, is the 2nd plastic synthesized...leave it to Henry.
 
chad":q5tak3i1 said:
i'm surprised it holds the bolt long-term (lotta 'wigglin' there as everytime U move the gas peddle stresses). It's just paper'n resin.

It's not paper, it's linen. There are several type though, this is classic type micarta or phenolic. My boss picked up a piece @ a Boeing surplus auction years ago. It holds well, I don't know how it will hold up long term, but I've put well over a 1000 miles on it. You could flush through-bolt it. Cut a hex end in the bottom and epoxy the bolts into it.
 
hey, it's wrkin.
No probs.
I seen LARGE glass boats (60, 80 foot) washed up on rip rap
sawed back'n forth during the 'cane that survived well enuff.
I just don't understand plastics much...

Go 4 it.
(I gotta get me some!).
Just wish I knew where to get 1 inch circuit board,
:shock:
we got a Bridgeport'n vac hose...
 
Well I attempted to drive the car tonight. Didn't go far and car started doing the same thing. So apparently it wasn't the spacer. So back to square one. It started up cold and ran perfect. When it gets up is when the problem starts. I still think it's fuel related so I'll start with checking fuel pressure. I'm thinking the diaphragm has a pin hole that gets bigger as it gets warmer.
 
it wuz runnin OK B4 the wood split or whatever it did, correct?
Is the coil over heatin as its mounted on the motor?
(no, that's the same as B4 & doin OK then...

Am I correct?: runs poor / stalls - after warm up
 
Runs bad and will not idle at all. Stalls but starts back up immediately. So I don't think it coil or ignition related. The day it started I swapped condensers just to see but nothing changed.
 
Saturday morning first thing I started the car. This time it was stone cold and would not idle. So I removed the top of the carb to make sure the brass float wasnt full of gas from a pinhole. Good there. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge next and it is only reading 3-1/2 to 4 psi. BUT... I also double checked the mounting nuts for the carb and snugged them up some more. Now the car runs great sitting in the garage. I didnt drive it cause it was kinda yucky out.
So now I'm thinking two things. 1. Did I fix the problem by snugging up the mounting nuts? And 2. Is my fuel pressure gauge reading incorrectly or not? The fuel pump is only about 3 or 4 years old and I use ethonal treatment every time I put gas in the car. Today will be warmer out and I will try to get it out for a drive this afternoon to see what happens.

Yes I do have a vacuum gauge. I will hook it up along with fuel pressure gauge for the test drive today and see what I get for readings.
I also found the spacer from Dashmans. Theres is only 1/4 inch thick where mine is 1/2 inch. But I dont think it would matter. I may go with one of those in the end.
 
Back
Top