New member and new owner of 67 falcon

Hi all, I’m new to the forum. I’ve been searching for answers here and there on the web, most often than not it leads back here.
I’ve been lurking on this site for quite a bit, but decided it’s about time to make it official and join.
I’ll post pics of my car and whatnot when I have more time. But currently I’m putting all new gaskets on and of course, finding issues along the way.
One thing I haven’t found on here. I took the head off and noticed all my exhaust valves look super dry and overheated whereas my intake ones look, well normal I suppose. Just curious when is the right time to replace valves?

Since you have the head off now would be the time to install not only new valves, but have the machine shop install hardened exhaust seats.
Your carb might benefit from 1 size richer jet.
Now would be the time to upgrade your distributor to mechanical advance & vacuum advance.
There is a tech article on how to convert you SCV carb to normal ported vacuum. Bill

The carb is a Holley 1940 i believe, and the previous owner ( I’ve had it about 2 weeks now) replaced the dist. Which does have a vacuum advance. Although I understand the importance of hardened seats, I’m for sure on a budget and don’t mind taking the head off again in a bit when I have more time and money. As I’m jumping in I’m finding more that needs to be done and I have to pick my battles.
With that being said, would the Holley carb already be jetted to be richer than the original Autolite carb?

Hi, it is normal for the exhaust valves to dry and tan color, and the intake valves to be black. The exhaust valves run much hotter.
You could have done a compression test and a leak down test, or just put compressed air into the cylinders to check out the condition of the engine, and maybe find a low cylinder.
If you did have a low cylinder (s), the engine would probably be have a miss, and be very low on power. You can find a dead cylinder by pulling the spark plug wires, one at a time. If the cylinder is bad the engine will run the same. If the engine slows down and shakes, that cylinder is working.
A quick compression test will show you a lot about an engine. If you have low numbers on a cylinder you can squirt oil in and if the numbers stay the same you have a bad valve. If the number goes up you have worn rings.
Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6.
Good luck

"...Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6.
Good luck..."
2X that plus the above tech archive.
Lurkin is good, the reading (research) 1st then lurk is beddah!

W E L C O M E !!!

I have performed a compression test, all were 120 with the exception of #4, it was 100. Did the test wet and it only went up about 5, so reason to believe the rings are good. After taking the head off I do see a pretty significant ridge, but it had good compression.
To bring you guys up to speed on my thought process. I bought it knowing that it had a “small leak from the crankcase. So being that the whole engine gasket set was $30 I decided to replace all the gaskets. Then I noticed the exhaust valves that are orange and dry, but if that’s fine, great!
I have the whole thing ready for assembly but this is where I want to stop and ask myself, what really needs to be done.
I noticed a few of the oil passages next to the lifters were really gunned up. And then the ridge on the cylinder walls, I’m not sure if I want to investigate the bearings and pistons themselves for fear of what I might find. But in a few months, I will be taking it to California from Indiana. So... that’s where I’m at.

Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6.
Good luck[/quote]
I plan on it. Right now I have the ford service manual for 67 falcon, And the c4 performance rebuild manual from previously. I’ll have to wait a bit on the falcon one. I stumbled upon that AFTER I bought the fsm

Your compression test is a bit low and since you all ready have the head off now you might investigate doing a valve job before you reassemble the engine. A good three angle valve job with back cutting will add power. Good luck on your Falcon.

I can afford to replace the valves, but if doing a valve job is something a shop will have to do, I’ll have to pass on that.
What should my compression be then? And since I’m replacing the exhaust valves and then also I replace the intake ones, that should fix my low compression issue?

boy, such a shame on skipin the machine shop, esp w/all apart.
Mine wuz $1800 (including prts) all in.
At lease hone dwn the ridge...
new rings, Head wrk.
No new cam either? Oh well.
Should make 1500 mi 1 shot easy.
Just give it a few hr shake dwn cruze after a solid break in period.
Sounds like fun.

I may be able to do a cam and lifters, to get better low end response. But the condition it’s in, at least visually. It needs more than enough work that my primary goal is drive ability. And $1800 is way above my price range atm. I did pour gas over the head to see if any leaked through the valves, it did not.
As far as cleaning all the sludge in the oil passages, I’ve cleaned most of it out by hand. Do you guys think gforvthecrest, if I run the car for 50 or 100 miles, change the oil and filter and keep at that for a time or two, would that get all of my hunk out?

Hope the pics upload, they’re of the valves. If no gas leaked through, and these look useable. If I replace the rubber seals that come with my gasket set, will these be fine?

Well no pics, it said the “board attachment photo limit has been reached” idk

Don't waste your money on a camshaft with just over 110# compression.
Your engine needs a complete overhaul.
Bore cylinders, pistons & so forth.
If you are limited on $$ just put it back together.

useta B 20 posts B4 pic possibility,IDK now (9 yrs ago @ my sign up).

the "Handbook" (you'll C after it arrives) has a good list of recommended wrk ($300 wuz David/Dennis estimate). U have about 3/4 of it in ur own list above. If $ is a problem (sure is 4 me) button it up. Get nother (but '77 + head) have the wrk done on it & put that 'worked' 1 on after U return or have the dough. It has advantages (again C the Handbook) over ur own...can B had 4 $75 - $125. A DSII ignition, again very inexpensive but top notch - is something many here do (MPGs & performance). The cam (& lifters) U have is a good 1 for tq but the technology has advanced so much these days, I'd say "Go Modern". All this runs bout $650 - $750 (6 - 9 mo savings 4 me) as I figure...

1st ID each & every component U now have (casting #s, tags, any means necessary). They may B already upgraded or subsituted. Often the case on a rig who's 50 yr history U may not B able to vouch 4. You've run it...U can tell after some mi what you'd like improved. ID 80% of ur driving needs, make a plan/budget & join us in the fun...

BTW: I recognize ur 'avatar' as 1 an past member used. Somehow he animated it !

Chad, that sounds like sound advice. Rebuilding another while this one is in.
Myonly concern for the short term was making it driveable to reach CA. With a small trailer a tow. Ididdrive it 3 hours home the first night I bought it, but that small leak I mentioned ran it nearly dry by the time Igor home. I have a couple if not $300 I can put into it. I just need to be practical about it.
As for the piston and cylinders. If they’re smooth and the rings are sealing, would that be necessary or could that be wait?

when U said "ridge" I thought U could catch a finger nail on a bump/skratch running all the way round the cylinder wall.
This is common on older/hi mi motors and destroys the rings. A compression test proved good rings, no? If so - no probs w/that.

Glad ur wrkin on that nasty leak.
Make sure it's not from "further in frnt" (movement/driving pushes it back acc the motor) and/or frm fan (when runnin/ideling).

I forgot what tranny U have, if towing double ck that (it's a new-to-U car)esp if auto; & cooling system (hills & hrs of motoring R hard on a 200 i6) & keep to 55 - 60 mph.

I did mean a ridge around the top of the cylinder walls. But compression was 120 with the exception of number 4 which was 100. I didn’t wet test the rest of them because I thought 120 was good. I wet test #4 and it went up maybe 5.
The tranny is a c4, and I thought about buying a gasket set for that as well. The whole rebuild kit is $46 so I might just do that.
I’m pretty sure the leak was the seal in the crank case. I have it off and the timing gears off and the crankshaft looks fine and has no wiggle room or anything. The seal did crumble a bit in places. So hoping that’s it.

Well it seams that your in a real tough spot then! Clean up all the oil passages that you have access to in the head, rocker shaft assembly and block. The valve stem seals in the gasket set are good to use, if you install the valve seals then you can also do a hand lap the valves while your at it. Then bolt it back togeather run it some and change the oil filter, maybe run some engine flush through it if you have time, check your oil pressure too. Depends were the leak was coming from it can also be from the rear main seal (the old rope type) tell tale signs are lots of oil all over the chassis from back of engine, on the trans, floor ect. You can also do that rear main replacement in the car after the pan is dropped, a "Sneaky Pete kit' helps get them installed. Good luck on your trip to Calif.

It was for sure from the front crank case. Oil all over the back of the fan. The underside of the hood and front part of the engine. I have a rear rope seal came with the kit. I was under the impression I needed to remove the transmission to replace that?