New member and new owner of 67 falcon

Youll need to drop the tranny, drop the oil pan, and lossen the crank bolts then you can change the seal. If it aint bad, dont touch it lol. I planned to replace it too when i did my clutch but once i found that out, i was like nope. If it aint broke dont fix it haha. Thats my motto.

Good luck man,
Ryan
 
I believe you want conpression to be 150 psi-180psi. If below, youll want to look at doing a rebuild eventually. Id look at buying another 200 and making sure its good enough to drop in eventually or rebuild it. That way the car js always working untill you swap the engine.
 
After some reading, I’ve decided to ream the cylinders, inspect the pistons and rings. If at least the pistons are good, I can order the connecting rod bearings, main bearings and rings for under a $100. And stardiero I think I will just hold on to that rope seal and put it in later.
 
Hi, if it was my engine I would clean up the head and put it back together.
The reality is the engine is worn. How many miles? I would guess over 150,000. They where never meant to go that long. I'll bet it could use a new timing chain too.
The real issue with the block is the ridge. The ridge is the size of the original bore, and the wear underneath is how much wore away from the piston rings scraping away every time the piston goes up and down.
So even if you remove the pistons, and use a ridge reamer, the pistons will be too small, and standard size rings will be too small, and honing the bores will make the bores even larger.
So rings and bearings could hurt the compression and cause worse oil consumption if the new rings don't seal.
That is why it was mentioned it is time to bore the block and get oversize pistons.
The 120 compression is not the end of the world, so I wouldn't potentially open a can of worms. Perhaps you will come across a Ford 6 which is a better candidate for a backyard rebuild after you move.
Good luck
 
if you've gone that far...I'd replace the rope, again w/the modern rubber. As U may C - the lill pin is removed/left out. Folks here have some darn good pointers on a few must do techniques allowing 'no leeks" for the next 100K w/that new 2 part gasket.

Most of the stuff the experts suggest (we're not all experts) here have to do with "if ur that far here's some" preventive maintenance while @ that level. (They helped me decide on a 170 to 250 swap). Continue to gather 'best practices' info. Then make a decision that's best in ur individual circumstance.

David's come up w/a pretty good "staged build" plan in the Handbook that has allowed me to drive. enjoy'n restore (in steps) that I can afford. I knew exactly what end goal to shoot for (even more important w/a multi-purpose vehicle like mine) after research with the CI tech archive (above blue box, which kinda started this site), the Handbook, and the on-line experts (here 4 engine, the bronk sites 4 the rest). Looks like U have some experience frm where U R @ now. Take the best offered here (again, some R top notch on these i6 motors) & leave the rest.

Good Luck, keep talkin!
 
Alright guys, I appreciate all the help, when I have the $$ I’ll visit the more expensive options. So at the moment I may just have to slap it back together. Hey, at least it was running, right?
I don’t know if it’s foolish of me, but my plan for the trip was to drive 8hrs, I sleep and my gf drives 8hrs, and do that until we get there.
Only thing is, then the car would be running essentially 28 hrs non stop. Maybe we’ll just ease up on the rush fest and make a more practical and car friendly trip.
Again, thanks for all of the advice. Shit of it is. I do have a 300 I could swap into it that is in much better shape, I just read that it’s huge pain do.
 
2 me that's a truck motor but they produced the big sedans (a waggy or 2 as well I believe) w/that & the C6.
8^ 0
If U do have a 200, Y not take time & do it well? A light falcon
& pepped up 200 seem ideal for a fun DD (U don't hafta go wild on
$ or mods).

Alternatly check out Car Craft, 8/11 issue to see a fully built Mav w/a 300.
A local here did a very cheep (OEM) 4.9L drag car that is quick (I think the article is
something like "Mike's Mad Maverick").
 
After working on the 200 and how much smaller it is, I’m already a fan. And I know in the long run it’ll be more work, I just happen to have a 300from an f100i used to have and it’s ready for reassembly and I could always have that in until I overhaul the 200completely and then re-swap (crazy I know)
I just also know that 300s were made to tow. Hell they were in ups big browns up until their demise in ‘96. So I know for sure it’d make the trip. Plus the one I have had some 35,000miles and inside it shows. Not sure my best options.
I think I did check out mad mikes maverick. I actually almost got a maverick instead of the falcon, but a spiderweb windshield kind of persuaded me this way.
Saw a shop in town that will bore il6 for $217. So I think I’ll button her back up: get the $$ for the overhaulkit and bore, the do this all again in a few months when I have everything I need.
Or swap for the 300.
Well I drove it 3 hrs home. With all new gaskets and the oil leak taken care of. I’m sure it’ll work as a daily driver for even2 months until I can have it overhauled. I think that’s my best plan
 
go EFI wid dat 300 !
(1st fuel inj in '87
speakin of 'modern-i-zing'!)
/OR/
'96/7 for OBDII
Weeeee....
(but a falcon?)
 
Rxlawson":22f87zop said:
It was for sure from the front crank case. Oil all over the back of the fan. The underside of the hood and front part of the engine. I have a rear rope seal came with the kit. I was under the impression I needed to remove the transmission to replace that?
Click to expand...

As for needing to remove the trans when replacing the rear main seal in the car, that all depends on the type of trans you have (don't see that mentioned in any of your posts). So this would be yes if you have a manual (stick) trans, and no it's not always nessisary if you have an Auto (C4 etc.) trans. On doing a 300 swap for a temp fix until you can do the 200 that would be quite a bit of work and do you really have enough time to do it before you leave? For an idea of what's involved check out the below link of an excellent 300 swap into a early Model Mustang. Of corse you don't need to go quite that elaborate but it still is a bit of work and once you got the 300 in you likely would like it a lot. Good luck (y) :nod:

Install of a 300 in an early Mustang
viewtopic.php?f=102&t=56067
 
Hey thanks for the link on the 300 swap. I’d like to find a 200and rebuild it while I drive with my current 200 in (which is almost back together- if it ever stops raining) but I’m having a heck of a time finding one at a junk yard price. I just happen to have 2 300s floating around. And I’ve read that they’d bolt up to the c4 at least. So I’m just trying to work with what I got. But time is not on my side.
I should’ve been more clear, if I had to I’d do the first swap here to the 300, drive that to Cali and swap back later, if I wanted.
 
Finally had time and finished getting it back together yesterday. Took about 10 seconds for it to start, but after that it started up just like a champ. But of course, it can’t all be good news. 3 seconds in it started spilling transmission fluid. :banghead:
Cross threaded the fitting.
 
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