Rough running above idle?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hi everyone. So I just "rebuilt" my carburetor. I say it in marks because i honestly barely knew what I was doing and alot of it was well this is how it came off. So it's most likely that that is causing it to run like crap but I wanted to make sure with you all. So it'll idle great I mean really low like 500 RPM no problem but as soon as you even breathe on the throttle it'll die. I fixed it by manually pushing the squirter to squirt gas in the carb and pushing the throttle at the same time but even when it idled up it started to run so bad I was concerned the while car started shaking viontley and you could see the engine shaking. It was like when you are starting out from a stop on a manual and it starts to stutter and shake. But this was at high RPM. Any ideas on what to adjust I don't know how to adjust the AF ratio on this guy. Another problem I'm fighting is the trans. It's making a horrible noise out of the bell housing/input shaft area. Its like a really bad clunking. If you put in gear and let out the wheels will move. But it isn't good it gets louder with increased RPM. It seems to go away when you step on the clutch but I still hear something. How hard is to change a input shaft bearing on these guys and where do I find them?
 
What do you have your initial advance set?
Disconnect the vacuum advance & see if the condition is not present when opening the throttle.
 
trans noise is more likely clutch TO berring PB etc kinda thing than input. Some real dammage needed 4 that. Think smaller, simpeler 1st.

Sounds like ur makin some real progress Jarod. Hope it's been fun & not overbearing! Soon U may find Y it wuz abandonded there in the 1st place (any clues yet?).

Still plenty time to get it home, any buds local to lend a hand wrenchin or 'supervisin'?
 
Wsa I currently have it set to be at about 7° before TDC. I did what you said and manually advanced it while revving it. It did eventually rev up but not very happily at all. It still runs very rough. And thanks Chad. It has been a real love hate project so far. I have gotten some clues as to why it was sold which is the fact the interior is very worn the seat springs are kinda shot and there is alot of rust on the sheet metal. Sadly I do not have anyone here to help me out besides my step dad who is very busy. So just about anything I have done or have to do has to be by myself and believe me there has been some bad words said and some major challenges :D . I will have to check into that TO bearing as that would be so much easier to fix maybe a good time to check and possibly replace the clutch while it's apart. But I want to thank you all it's been a long trip so far and alot longer to go but your help has been huge. Brakes are still my biggest concern as the lines absolutely refuse to come off lol.
 
gettin inta it huh, dude?
Well, glad ur alone wid dat spicy tung, hahahaaaaaha.

Clutches often last near the life of a car (never burned mine out...
 
Set the initial to 10-12 area. Make sure you don't have the wires attached to the coil reversed. That would polarity issue could cause your problem.
Put a timing light on it and see if the spark jumps around??
Bring engine rpms up & slightly close the choke to see if you have a lean condition??
Firing order 153624. Good luck.
Do you have points or a petronix ignition??
 
I am currently running a PerTronix unit. The original first one. I will go and double check the polarity but I did not think it could even run reversed. Learn something new everyday. I will advance the timing the only reason I was running 7° was because the fomoco shop Manual said there was no gain advancing it more than 6° before factory specs. So I went conservative. Thanks
 
i think they add 5* round here as a natural course of events (retarded @ factory 4 pollution control).
 
Well I advanced my timing but I do not have a timing light so it's alludes work the only way I know it was 7° is because that's where I out the dizzy in at but besides that it's all guess work. It will run and with the choke partly closed it'll rev up.but not to high and it runs ROUGH I mean like shaking the whole car crazy rough and it's loud.
 
nother excuse to buy a new tool?
Borrow at nearest 'big box store' (autozone, advance, pep boys, o'rileys, etc)?
 
Hi, it is probably not the water pump or generator, but a quick test on any car is to run it with the belt off to check for noise and vibration.

On and off of the clutch pedal usually means the throw out bearing. You should be able to feel it with the tranny in neutral as you press and release the pedal.

You have to figure out if this problem is ignition, carb, or something else causing the vibration.
Good luck
 
If pulling the choke speeds up the motor, you are not getting enough fuel. The choke shuts off AIR, so speeding up means you are matching the air flow to the fuel flow. Look for a problem with fuel delivery like clogged jets, low fuel in the bowl, clogged filter, etc.!
 
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