: I have every thing ready to pull engine out of my 1966 inline 200 coupe automatic. Going to paint motor and engine bay add headers and dual exhaust. First question - where to buy correct blue paint. Second question-Will I have starter issues with the dual output headers bought from vintage inline SKU: FSP-200-DOH . Third question what else should I do with the engine out? Fourth question - Should I use the port divider. Going to replace complete front suspension and add disk brakes and change out master cylinder to vaccum assist Any advice will be appreciated.
Headers to starter clearence
- Thread starter sprog777
- Start date
: I have every thing ready to pull engine out of my 1966 inline 200 coupe automatic. Going to paint motor and engine bay add headers and dual exhaust. First question - where to buy correct blue paint. Second question-Will I have starter issues with the dual output headers bought from vintage inline SKU: FSP-200-DOH . Third question what else should I do with the engine out? Fourth question - Should I use the port divider. Going to replace complete front suspension and add disk brakes and change out master cylinder to vaccum assist Any advice will be appreciated.
almost 4 different posts here, my friend, anyway...
1) Bubs hada good stickie on that: Duplicolor, (I got a rustoloium # somewhere for the 60's lght blue). Some want the "Ford Corporate Drk Blue", not me. Use the search function.
2) not sure bout any squ#, for the VI/CI shorties - Y not go w/the correct starter rather than loose those hrds? a late 80s V6 stang starter (what I got) or an aftr mrkt mini?
3) tell us "what U got, what U want" ie 80% of ur driving conditions, RPM, driving style - in otherwrds 'the final application' (100% of automotive Qs R answ by this application or end goal Q);
4) some like the divider w/a header (I do to maintain the gasket'n direct the hot gasses to the awaiting tubes, yum, yum, eats it up);
5) lotta suggestions there. @ near 30 posts U should have a copy of "the Handbook". It answ many of these Qs;
6) beddah breaks - I'd just put disc up frnt & B done w/it (rather than a power unit).
Again - 4 or 5 threads here...
1) Bubs hada good stickie on that: Duplicolor, (I got a rustoloium # somewhere for the 60's lght blue). Some want the "Ford Corporate Drk Blue", not me. Use the search function.
2) not sure bout any squ#, for the VI/CI shorties - Y not go w/the correct starter rather than loose those hrds? a late 80s V6 stang starter (what I got) or an aftr mrkt mini?
3) tell us "what U got, what U want" ie 80% of ur driving conditions, RPM, driving style - in otherwrds 'the final application' (100% of automotive Qs R answ by this application or end goal Q);
4) some like the divider w/a header (I do to maintain the gasket'n direct the hot gasses to the awaiting tubes, yum, yum, eats it up);
5) lotta suggestions there. @ near 30 posts U should have a copy of "the Handbook". It answ many of these Qs;
6) beddah breaks - I'd just put disc up frnt & B done w/it (rather than a power unit).
Again - 4 or 5 threads here...
Well I thought I'd throw it all out there on what I'm doing so any suggestions on any part of it i'll take . One question on the port divider divider, Should it be welded or screwed in or both .I have read many post that say don't use it due to the fact if it comes loose bad things happen . I'll show the car around here local to show people what 6=8 is all about. Then maybe a sunday drive now and then. I want a dependable car to enjoy and not have to worry about coming home on a tow hook. Thanks for the reply .
In my OPIN the trouble most people have with the center port divider is not taking enough time to properly fit it! What bad things can happen, is some rattling due to it being too loose? Though if it rattles it can be annoying it's not likely to keep the car from making it back home Ie wouldn't be a major failure. To do the install right requires that the center port divider is carefully ground to fit so that it is a snug (slight interference fit) and so that the flange sticks up just slightly that way it will not rattle around. With your engine out (or the head off) this will be much easier to fit it in place, tack welding it in is ok too though if it's fitted properly it's probally not required.
Some other things you might consider on your mods is to put some baffling in your oil pan to help keep the oil in the sump around the pick up tube, three angle valve job with back cut, cam install, blend the valve bowls, port head, better ignistion system and maybe carb depending on your performance goals. When your doing your front end rebuild, do the roller lower spring pad mod and look into the Shelby drop (LCA) also. Below is the link to the engine color post I started a while back, it maybe of help you on your 1966 Falcon restoration, good luck on your mods. 
Factory Engine Colors
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77044&p=594605&hilit=Correct+engine+colors#p594605
Some other things you might consider on your mods is to put some baffling in your oil pan to help keep the oil in the sump around the pick up tube, three angle valve job with back cut, cam install, blend the valve bowls, port head, better ignistion system and maybe carb depending on your performance goals. When your doing your front end rebuild, do the roller lower spring pad mod and look into the Shelby drop (LCA) also. Below is the link to the engine color post I started a while back, it maybe of help you on your 1966 Falcon restoration, good luck on your mods.
Factory Engine Colors
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77044&p=594605&hilit=Correct+engine+colors#p594605
"....almost 4 different posts here, my friend, anyway...
2) not sure bout any squ#, for the VI/CI shorties - Y not go w/the correct starter rather than loose those hrds? a late 80s V6 stang starter (what I got) or an aftr mrkt mini?..."
also: ask around abt the ford racing 1 (I've 4got abt it as I got what I need) some use here.
2) not sure bout any squ#, for the VI/CI shorties - Y not go w/the correct starter rather than loose those hrds? a late 80s V6 stang starter (what I got) or an aftr mrkt mini?..."
also: ask around abt the ford racing 1 (I've 4got abt it as I got what I need) some use here.
yes, that's in "the Handbook" along w/2 other suggestions. If U don't have the book ck our search thread.
The issue is different for the 250 (mine) v the other small i6 as to hi v low mount starters...
What's ur engine?
The issue is different for the 250 (mine) v the other small i6 as to hi v low mount starters...
What's ur engine?
Yes there is a Ford mini starter most likely just don't know what the source vehicle is. I got the mini starter for my 250 from this guy he is knowledgeable. Just bought another one from him for my Cherokee. He shipped from TX to NV for my Bronco.
https://www.yellowpages.com/dallas-tx/m ... nc-9200994
https://www.yellowpages.com/dallas-tx/m ... nc-9200994
I use the duel out headers that classic inlines sold. Think they are the same ones you can get off eBay.
They fit, but you have to use the small starter and I have mine wrapped in a heat shield so it doesnt burn up.
It is a tight fit, but it works
They fit, but you have to use the small starter and I have mine wrapped in a heat shield so it doesnt burn up.
It is a tight fit, but it works
No, did U try the tech archive above?Matthew68":2qiqv2qe said:
Our search function?
I know we've discussed 3 options minimum. I all ways go something ford but: "McRobb", the 3.8 V6 stang (mine), ford racing (I believe), the PowerMaster 9406 (sold as an FE starter but the FE three bolt pattern works on the 200), any of the "minis".
no, I have250 ci.
C if this info comes thru:
________________________________________________________________________
Starters 157 tooth M/T & A/T
164 tooth A/T 164 tooth M/T
Ford Racing High Torque M-11000-B5 1 M-11000-MT164
Power Master 3124/9162/9103/9603/9503/9403 9604/9504/9403
____________________________________________________________________________
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technica ... ersion.htm
_______________________________________________________________________________
oth flywheel then you will need the 3/8" depth starter (see chart).
The Details
As seen in Powermaster's "Ford Starter Tech Bulletin" there are 2 critical dimensions, the diameter of the registration hole, and the depth of the ring gear.
Ring Gear Depth Registration Diameter
164 tooth, M/T 3/8" 4.130"
164 tooth A/T
157 tooth M/T & A/T 3/4" 4.084"
If not ck the link in the middle of the 2 'charts'.
Again, there's plenty threads on this here on our site. I just won't search 4 U...
EDIT:
no, I C the formatting did not come thru, ck the link.
C if this info comes thru:
________________________________________________________________________
Starters 157 tooth M/T & A/T
164 tooth A/T 164 tooth M/T
Ford Racing High Torque M-11000-B5 1 M-11000-MT164
Power Master 3124/9162/9103/9603/9503/9403 9604/9504/9403
____________________________________________________________________________
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technica ... ersion.htm
_______________________________________________________________________________
oth flywheel then you will need the 3/8" depth starter (see chart).
The Details
As seen in Powermaster's "Ford Starter Tech Bulletin" there are 2 critical dimensions, the diameter of the registration hole, and the depth of the ring gear.
Ring Gear Depth Registration Diameter
164 tooth, M/T 3/8" 4.130"
164 tooth A/T
157 tooth M/T & A/T 3/4" 4.084"
If not ck the link in the middle of the 2 'charts'.
Again, there's plenty threads on this here on our site. I just won't search 4 U...
EDIT:
no, I C the formatting did not come thru, ck the link.