New Carb and Ready for Tune

MustangDadDrake

Well-known member
Supporter 2021
Hi All,

With the help of this forum and the tech pages I was able to diagnose some issues with my 68 Mustang. This weekend I swaped out the SCV carb for a non-SCV carb! I also installed a phelonic spacer as I was running into some vapor lock issues.

When hooking up the choke tube I noticed the old choke tube was broken off in the exhaust manifold. I removed the exhaust manifold and drilled out the old choke tube.

I plan to tune it with a vacuum gauge now that I have the right parts on the car and I have read through the forums but would like to confirm I am going about this the right way.

>>>>Warm up the car until the choke is fully open. Then tune with vacuum guage following the steps here.

If you guys see anything odd or have some suggestions for me, please let me know. I also, want to thank you all for your help, this forum is a great resource. (y)




 
Howdy DadDrake:

What distributor are you using? What is the new carb from/designed for? It sure looks good. It sure looks good. Good job on the spacer.

Adios, David
 
I am using the mechanical distributor, not the load o matic. It is just an Autolite 1100 non-scv, I was running the SCV version of the autolite 1100, from summit racing, previously.

Thank you!!! :beer:


 
Hi, the bracket on the side of the choke is there to hold the heater hose. Good luck
 
Who rebuilt the carb? Looks very nice.
Get rid of the points. Pertronix 1 is one step up. You will need a full 12V to the distributor & get a better coil, MSD or Pertronix.
Getting the distributor recurved would help performance greatly.
The next upgrade if you don't care about looking stock is a DS11 with a MSD-6al.
If you have manual steering a HEI is a one wire hookup. Bill
 
I purchased the carb on eBay, vapex is the rebuilder I believe.

Thanks for the pointers I’m just trying to get her to run well with what she has for the time being but I’ll know what to research next! Thanks
 
Howdy Back Dad Drake:

Your distributor appears to be a stock '69 distributor with both vacuum and centrifugal advance. If you were running an Autolite 1100 with a SCV, it would not work well with that distributor. A SCV 1100 is designed to run with a Load-O-Matic distributor. However, those 1100 on a 200 engine were rated at 185 cfm. The 1100s used on '68 & '69 200s were downsized to 150 cfm but lost the SCV and added a ported vacuum source for the distributor advance. That is why I asked what the new carb was designed for. FYI- If it was a '68 replacement you may be down on power, going from 185 to 150 cfm. The difference is in the inner diameter of the Venturi. Check it out. The vacuum tune up you are using will be the same on either carb.

Adios, David
 
I am glad I got the right pair after driving with the wrong carburetor this whole time. How can you tell it is a '69 distributor, like what do you look for?

This is really good info thank you, most people that even know cars don't know this stuff!
 
Howdy Back:

This distributor is identifiable by the facts that it is a point type with centrifugal and vacuum advance and the large vacuum canister on the side of the distributor with both advance and retard functions. it was used from somewhere in 1968 until the introduction of the small cap DuraSpark distributors in the 1973 production year. It has a different appearance of the point plate of the earlier Load-O-Matic distributor and the pointless, '73 and later Dura Spark distributors.

Adios, David
 
When did the DSI change to DSII ('77?).
Thnx~
 
Howdy:

Chad- The DS II became standard on all 200 sixes beginning in the 1975 Production year. Some appeared in the '74 model year due to FOMOCo's empty bin policy. The big difference between Dura-Spark and Dura-Spark II is the size of the distributor cap. The bigger cap on DS II was to reduce arcing due to the higher energy.

Adios, David
 
If you have a good SCV carb, it can be converted to ported vacuum.
As CZLN6 stated + 35 CFM is the flow on the SCV carb over the non SCV carb. Thats at least 5HP.
Here is a link on how to do the conversion.
viewtopic.php?f=99&t=76821
I can do this for you for $50.00 plus parts + shipping. Bill
 
Already got the right carb no need for the conversion but thank you. I do have an SVC carb that I no longer need.

Since it’s a 69 distributor I think I know why I am having trouble moving it to set the timing, It’s hitting the engine when I try to turn it.

Anyone experience this before how can I move the distributor to set the timing if it’s conflicting with the engine?

Thanks! Drake
 
The Distribitor will need to be pulled and reinstalled in the correct orientation, looks to be one or two teeth off. To do this you will need to first get the engine set so it is on TDC (Top Dead Center) on the #1 cylinder (check the Timing Mark on the Crankshaft Dampner) on the compression stroke. Next check where the Distribitor rotor is pointing, it'll needs to be pointing to the # 1 tower of the Distribitor cap after the Distribitor body is in the correct location (see below post on Distribitor orientation). Ie the vacuum advance canister is closer to parael to the side of the engine block. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
Howdy Back Drake:

YOu may have the correct carb for the '69 distributor, BUT! The '68 and '69 Non SCV Autolite 1100s are rated at 150 cfm. The earlier 1100s for LoM distributor were rated at 185 cfm. Doing the modication that Bill suggests is a significant increase in performance. That's is something to consider. Just a thought.

Adios, David
 
Did not realize that about the performance boost with Bill's modification. I already have enough $$$ in carburetors for now but something to consider in the future.

A little needy this Monday morning...as for the distributor, what do you mean by 1 to 2 teeth off? Does anyone have a photo of a distributor in the right place so I can compare? I haven't searched for install a distributor yet but does anyone know where I can find a good tutorial?



Besides the distributor, the carburetor tune went really well. She is steady at 18" on the vacuum gauge. Which is at the lower end of the normal range but I hope to adjust it when I get the distributor on right.

Thanks again for all your help!!!
 
The body of the Distribitor should be installed so that vacuum advance canister is pointing towards the fuel pump, you can see a good picture of this orientation in Xtancy's post # 5 in the below link. The rest of the info on installing a Distribitor is in my above post. Good luck (y) :nod:

Ford Six Engine Colors
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77044&p=592955&hilit=Engine+colors#p592955
 
Thanks Bubba!
After doing some more research I want to make sure I have this right in my mind before I do it this weekend.

1.Set Engine to TDC on Compression Stroke by using 1/2 wrench on the crankshaft pulley. Question: do I need to remove the fan and/or radiator in order to do this? Also, how can I tell it is the compression stroke?
2. Remove cap, leaving spark plug wires attached.
3. Mark position of rotor.
4. Remove distributor completely.
5. Reinstall distributor in the correct orientation. Question: I feel like I am missing something here. Are you able to clarify a little bit more. I have been using this generic DIY for most of my information WikiHow. I feel like this step is critical and would feel comfortable with some more clarity.

Thanks again!!
 
"...this generic DIY for most of my information WikiHow....'
Way too general.
A Haynes or Chiltons (@ big box auto prts store) R manuals 4 ur specific vehicle (Year/Make/Model). Nicer is an official ford shop manual (for later, more expensive).
Great is 'the Handbook' many of us use here to wrk on our i6 (a member here wrote it w/his brother). It includes a staged process for 'advancing' the 'stang while drivin it - almost no down time, & ability to save $ 4 jobs (inc motor changes'n other stuff).
Lastly some good reading for understanding this specific motor ('Thriftpower' or 'Falcon' motors) is the above "tech archive' at the crossed screwdriver'n wrench. Tools'n space might B 1st (after a car, of course), 2nd is the Handbook, tech archive'n a shop manual. Knowledgable folk in the neighborhood or here on line can complete ur team. Determination, patience, willingness to go slo & learn can help but we see folks here w/o those attributes who do OK.
Keep in touch!
(y)
 
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