New Carb and Ready for Tune

MustangDadDrake":1pz204pw said:
Thanks Bubba!
After doing some more research I want to make sure I have this right in my mind before I do it this weekend.

1.Set Engine to TDC on Compression Stroke by using 1/2 wrench on the crankshaft pulley. Question: do I need to remove the fan and/or radiator in order to do this.

1.A. No You shouldn't need to remove the fan or radiator. If you remove all the spark plugs you can probably turn the engine using the fan itself.[highlight=yellow][/highlight]

Also, how can I tell it is the compression stroke?

"1.B. Since the engine is running now with the Distribitors slightly off normal stock position, when the engine is set correctly on the TDC mark of the crankshafts Dampener when it's on the compression stroke the Distribitors rotor will be pointing to the number one spark plug wires tower of the Distribitor cap. Use a piece of chock and mark the distribitor body were the the number one spark plug wire is located. If the Distribitor rotor isn't pointing close to the number one spark plug wire then it will be 180 degrees off and its not going to be on the compression stroke. Take a picture of it and post here.[highlight=yellow][/highlight]"

2. Remove cap, leaving spark plug wires attached.
3. Mark position of rotor.
4. Remove distributor.

4. Before removing the Distribitor take a few pictures of its location and post them here. [highlight=yellow][/highlight]

5. Reinstall distributor in the correct orientation. Question: I feel like I am missing something here. Are you able to clarify a little bit more. I have been using this generic DIY for most of my information WikiHow. I feel like this step is critical and would feel comfortable with some more clarity.

5. The wikihow is ok except in you case the Distribitor wasn't installed quite correctly. IE I believe it's likely 1 or 2 teeth of the Distribitor gear off its ideal position. After documenting this step try moving the Distribitor body by turning it towards the fuel pump. Now take another picture and post here. This will show how far off the rotor is off from the Distribitor caps number one tower. Note that Ford Distribitor caps usally have a number one on the top next to the number one cap tower.
[highlight=yellow][/highlight] More to follow. Good luck" :nod: (y) Edited

Thanks again!!
 
Wow great info thanks guys!

Chad thanks for the sound advice I actually have the shop manual (I took a picture of it in post #3) but looking through I did not find anything that would make me comfortable about removing and reinstalling the distributor.

You're the man Bubba! I will try to get in there tomorrow for the pictures. Standby for updates!

Thanks again!
 
MustangDadDrake":24wgwvsr said:
...thanks guys!
Chad thanks for the...advice I actually have the shop manual...
Thanks again!
Don't 4get "the Ford..6...Handbook" (may B frm Matt at VI - $20?)
/OR/
the above "tech archive" @ the crossed screwdriver/wrench.
 
OK guys!

With removing all spark plugs it was a breeze to turn the fan by hand and I was able to get the first cylinder to TDC... i think.

The distributor is pointing at the #1 spark plug tower.

I went to adjust the distributor but it would not budge at all. I took the clamp completely off and still nothing, wouldn't budge.

My next step would be to remove the distributor and reinstall in the right orientation. But I do not see what bolts I need to remove to get the distributor loose.

Please let me know if I am on the right track here.








 
I would rock the motor a lill bit & use penetrating fluid. I think it's stuck by rust (@ base - looks so in pic) & just the oil pump gear/dizzy gear (way lower in engine).
 
See if you can move it up as much as you can. Then spray Deep Creep into the gap. Let sit for an hour. See if you can now rotate it. Might take several days to get that sucker out.
Anytime you install a distributor make sure the housing is prepped with lubricant.
 
X2 yes use some spray penetrate at the Distribitors base. You could also use a little bit of pressure too on the Distribitor body by using a pry bar or big screwdriver between the oil filter housing i.e. Looking at your 5th picture above. Then keep working the Distribitor body back and forth a little togeather with the spray penetrate eventually over time it will loosen up enough to get it to turn and pull out. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Just a question about your phenolic carb spacer. Is it store bought or homemade from a cutting board? I need one for my '62 Fairlane with a 170ci and Holley 1909 carb. Also, how thick is it?
 
Hey Guys!

So after Friday I was not able to get back under the hood to do some work, busy with the family. However, I did pick up some of that deep creep and plan to spray some in there and loosen up the distributor today. So sorry for the delay but I will keep you guys updated.

I found a decent youtube video on removing and install the distributor. Once I break this sucker loose, am I to rotate the distributor body to the proper position then reinstalling with the rotor pointed at the same location (TDC at Spark Plug #1)? Is it that simple? :unsure:: :unsure:: :unsure::

Hey Ragman! I bought the spacer for $20 on ebay. It is 1/4" thick. I thought briefly about making it myself but the material cost plus time didn't make sense to me. Here is the link.

*Edited to add second paragraph
 
UPDATE:

The deep creep worked like a charm and now my distributor moves back and forth.

After checking around and watching youtube videos and reading the tech articles, I do not believe I need to remove the distributor at all. I can properly set the timing with the distributor now that the deep creep has loosened the distributor.

Do you all agree here???
 
MustangDadDrake":1yks7e16 said:
UPDATE:

The deep creep worked like a charm and now my distributor moves back and forth.

After checking around and watching youtube videos and reading the tech articles, I do not believe I need to remove the distributor at all. I can properly set the timing with the distributor now that the deep creep has loosened the distributor.

Do you all agree here???


Yes!
Its a message from the BBC
Bill, bubba and Chad to the rescue!
 
"...agree...?"

"fine tuning", finishing up, minor adjustments, "Yes".
"Bright'n Bristol?" "No. Not ship shape'n Bristol fashion."
Again there's a bubba thread that's gunna get U alot closer.
Try the search function...
(Ur kinda starting @ the end steada da frnt).


BTW: BBC round deese pahts stands for Berkshire Brewing Co. & I'd recommend their "Steel Rail" IPA !
(& yes Berkshire county, the Berkshire Mts/Hills & all related is from the Brits: where Windsor castle is).
 
double post - gettin my count up anyway I can 8^ )
 
Thx for the info. The link led me to one for sale on eBay. The day I searched, I couldn't find any one barrel spacers.
 
what key words would I use to find Bubba's thread?

I have read of his step by step process and have spent two days searching
anyone have a direct link or title of that thread

Thanks

Juan
 
Chapa71":1xrk1zgd said:
what key words would I use to find Bubba's thread?
I have read of his step by step process and have spent two days searching
anyone have a direct link or title of that thread
Thanks
Juan
he accepts PMs. Tell em "chad sent me" if he gets mad!
:eek:
 
Howdy Back DadDrake:

It's been awhile. I'm curious how setting the timing went. You might want to start a new post topic to keep it simpler. Any time you change topics it might be a good idea to change to a new post. I'll be looking forward to your update.

Adios, David
 
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