car jumping in gear

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rustywagon
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car jumping in gear

Post #1 by rustywagon » Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:32 pm

Hi guys, my name is Michal, I am new here, thank you for adding me.
I have Fairlane 3.3L station wagon, rusty, not so pretty, but loved.

Previous owner neglected the car, he did zero maintenance and drove car to death.
There was always issue with rough running, but it was drivable.

Lately the car develops issue - it starts right away, it runs ok, but when I stop and car is in gear it run very rough, jumps, sometimes dies. When I step on gas it runs fine....

There's Pertronix ignition, I put new coil, spar plugs, I recently replaced Autolite 1100 with new carburetor (hoping Autolite was the issue) with manual choke. There's leak at exhaust doughnut I will be fixing tomorrow. My friend is great mechanic, knows/works on classic cars, but he doesn't know inline sixes too much, we'll be checking timing tomorrow.

Any ideas? I am starting to be frustrated....
Thank you, Michal

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bubba22349
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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:11 am

Welcome to the Ford Six Forum rustywagon! First thing to check out is the engines condistion, have you done a compression test yet? Next is to check out all the tune up settings. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #3 by B RON CO » Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:18 am

Hi, X2 on the compression test and tune up. You can also warm up the engine and while it is running remove one spark plug wire to see if the cylinder is healthy. If the engine shakes and slows down the cylinder is making power. If there is no change with the plug wire off the cylinder is dead. Check them all that way.
You can check for bad spark plug wires by running it at night and there should not be any arcing among the wires. If you see arcing you need new wires.
You should have a Chilton's manual for all the settings, and get the Ford Falcon performance handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

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chad
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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #4 by chad » Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:34 am

"...a Chilton's manual for all the settings, and get the Ford Falcon 6 Cyl. Performance Handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6...."
2X ^^^
Haynes is OK too but an expensive ford mechanic's (by ford 4 the dealer- in house wrkers) is best. The "Handbook" is one many of us here use (available thru Matt at vintage inlines dot com ~ 20$). While waitin 4 delivery Check above "tech archive" (big blue bx w/crossed screwdriver'n wrench) esp at:

ci/Loadomatic.html

as it talks abt ur carb.

Do U have an auto transmis? Do U still have the ol carb? Have U IDed the block/head/rear gear, etc? As an owner I'd suggest U do so ("Handbook" helps) to know just what U have. That way U can get it running right (& therefore know what an upgrade would B in case U wish to go that route). Many here R into performance (ie better MPGs & pep) and we have some internationally renown experts for consultation. I hada use the resources mentioned 1st to even know the right questions to ask! Saveda lota money'n time here. :thumbup:
So
W E L C O M E !!!
enjoy yer visit~
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #5 by rbohm » Wed Sep 05, 2018 12:39 pm

welcome michal, enjoy the insanity here, it helps if you relax.

first thing, it doesnt matter how many cylinders an engine has, nor it configuration, they all operate on the same set of principles. they all need fuel fire and compression, as well as exhaust, at the right times. it can be a modern V6, inline four, V8 inline six, or even a 28 cylinder radial aircraft engine(seven cylinder radial engines stacked four deep). i will grant that there are subtleties for each type of engine to deal with though.

but lets start with the basics, run a compression check. as you noted the previous owner didnt take care of the engine, so we need to know the health of the engine.

once that is covered and the engine is in good health, lest make sure the fuel system is delivering the proper amount of fuel. make sure the carb is clea and adjusted properly, the fuel filter has been changed, etc.

next lets go over the ignition system, get the timing set where the engine wants it to be set, this does not mean where the factory originally set it, remember they have to deal with warranties, and differing climates around th e world. often times these engines like between 10-14 degrees initial timing for best power.

one thing to remember is that you will be balancing fuel delivery and ignition timing as you move forward. so when you adjust the carb, the ignition timing may want to be changed as well.

one thing i would ask, tells us what year car you are dealing with, it does make a difference, mostly if it is a pre 68, or 68 and later vehicle.
64 falcon
66 mustang
05 grand marquis

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #6 by rustywagon » Thu Sep 06, 2018 8:49 pm

Thank you all for responses.
I checked cylinders, they all work.
I am afraid, the engine is bad. There's smoke coming out of oil dipstick, plus all the other issues....
What's the cost of rebuilding, or purchasing of new/rebuild engine?
Michal

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chad
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trash motor w/o much info re: condition

Post #7 by chad » Thu Sep 06, 2018 10:17 pm

woah there -
"... rebuilding, or purchasing..."
are U able to do any wrk on this motor ur self?
Will U rely exclusively on ur "My friend is great mechanic, knows/works on classic cars, but he doesn't know inline sixes..."?
Is there alot of spare cash?

If U would like - there is alot of things U can ck out 1st B4 going this extreme.
If U wanna dump a motor there's guys here that would probable take it.
"Juping in gear" is usually not an engine (well...I guess motor mounts could effect)...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #8 by rustywagon » Fri Sep 07, 2018 9:34 pm

I was pulling wires out of spark plugs and got electrocuted. When I grabbed/pulled the wire at the end to pull it shocked me on 2 cylinders. I replaced the wires few months ago, is that normal thing....?
Should I replace it again?
Michal

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #9 by 196158A » Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:46 pm

Two thing you want to know abt ignition wires. Do they conduct? You can use an ohm meter to check the resistance of each wire. If any show no resistance (> 1000 ohms) that's a problem. Some wire sets are designed to reduce electrical noise from the ignition system. These are called resistance wires or noise suppression wires. Sometimes the conductor isn't making a good connection to the metal connector at the end. Check the crimp to if it is tight.
The other thing is are the wires arcing? This is easy to check by looking at the wires in the dark for arcing (blue sparks). Arcing would indicate that the insulation is failing and wire should be replaced.

GL
Terry

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #10 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 08, 2018 4:47 pm

ok, I am starting with testing you guys suggested.
I did compression test today.
I am not mechanic, I build houses for living and English is my 2nd. language, so please be considerate and patient. Thank you.
I followed what I was told at tool rental place:
I disconnected the distributor/coil wire.
I checked each cylinder separately - , pulled the plug, screwed in test gauge, cranked the engine for several sec, readings on all cylinders is the same - jumping up and down from 60 - 100psi
I did not add any oil when tested.
all spar plugs looks same, little gray on tips.
Now I will check fuel pressure.
Thank you.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #11 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 08, 2018 6:10 pm

I added oil to each cylinder when testing, no change on pressure.
Only difference, there was smoke coming out of exhaust after I fired it up.
Otherwise, the car doesn't smoke, not sure if it's important.....

I found out the exhaust manifold was not tight, all bolts were loosened. There was wrong size, smaller doughnut seal at manifold/exhaust pipe, it was not sealed at all. I put correct one.

Engine seems to be running smoother and accelerate better, so far it is not jumping... could the loosened manifold and no seal throw the engine of.....

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #12 by 196158A » Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:47 pm

Hi
<I am not mechanic,
Think your going to be one! Or at least a be able to troubleshoot what you need to do.

< English is my 2nd. language, so please be considerate and patient.
Would have never known your English is very good!

< readings on all cylinders is the same - jumping up and down from 60 - 100psi
Sounds like you got a cheap gauge, better ones have a one way valve that hold the air pressure in so the needle isn't jumping up and down while you are trying to get an accurate reading. In any event the good news is that all are pretty even (abt 100psi), spark plugs seem pretty good in that there not black and crusty and your not smoking. The not so good news is overall 100 psi is kinda on the low side. It's ok as I wouldn't condemn it and say it's on it's last leg. I'm thinking a rebuilt engine would be up around 160-170psi.

<I added oil to each cylinder when testing, no change on pressure.
Only difference, there was smoke coming out of exhaust after I fired it up.
Otherwise, the car doesn't smoke, not sure if it's important.....
Yes smoking is normal if you have adding oil into the cylinders. Adding oil for this test if the rings are badly worn will cause the compression to increase during the test.

<could the loosened manifold and no seal throw the engine of.....
Generally I would say no. Just much louder! Sometimes it can cause issue with back pressure ( the pressure of the exhaust gases leaving the engine and going into exhaust pipe).

Good Luck
Terry

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chad
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car jumping in gear

Post #13 by chad » Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:58 pm

Your english is 100X better than any 2nd lang I could ever speak (& 50% better than my own english)!

"... loosened manifold and no seal throw the engine of...."
(off)
I believe that is not what the "jumping in gear" was about.

The 'pull wires test' is a good 1. Sorry he did not mention a caution & U R not as familiar w/autos. There is a set of insulated plyers for this, folks like me hafta shut down the rig B4 pulling/re-starting tho (low budget operation).

Additionally I'm going to guess U have a C4 automatic transmission?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #14 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 09, 2018 12:31 am

all plugs 60 - 120.
I added the oil to see if it would increase the pressure, it did not.
if the piston rings are ok (assuming adding oil did not change pressure), why pressure is low... Any other factors involved?
When I got the car, my friend put in new chain, could he install wrong? would engine still run with chain off?

I did another few trips with the car today, no jumping so far...
my wife drove it, and she confirmed - better accelerations, smoother ride.

I will check timing next week, possible replace head and manifold gasket.
Anything else I should check?

My neighbor - mechanic adjusted the new carb, old school guy, specializes in classic cars.

Distributor - I have the old one with pertronix in it, should it be replaced, meaning the distributor?

Also I tried to measure gas pressure, got gauge from O relies, hooked up the gauge at the end of gas line just before it enters carb, nothing, no reading at all.... car runs, so I am not sure what I was doing wrong....

Thank for help, M

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car jumping in gear

Post #15 by chad » Sun Sep 09, 2018 1:07 am

U sound like you R beginning to take things into your own hands.
This is good. U will B come more familiar w/ur own vehicle (expand ur consciousness) understand it, save money (& if like me - increase ur enjoyment). W/this car that can B alot of fun (no computers to get in the way/try'n figure out/buy) like newer vehicles.

Congratulations !
U may B ready for a purchase or 2. The top of the line (expensive) is the ford mechanic (Dealer) shop manual. Most ppl get the Chilton or Hanes manual (auto prts stores) specific 2 ur Y/M/M. Many of us have these (esp when new to the specific vehicle). Alot of us have "The Ford...6 Cyl Performance Handbook" by members of this site. I would suggest it as it's specific to ur vehicle & seems 2B about were U R right now in ur knowledge (avail from Matt at vintage inlines dot com - 20$ ?). Lastly, the above tech archive (@ blue box w/crossed screw driver'n wrench) is something U can peruse for free while waiting for delivery of the Handbook.

I will not speak 2 specific concerns right now (go back re-read, pick each 1, etc) but did note the fule pressure Q. If U trace the fule line back frm the carb (its metal) around the valve cover'n down - U will C it goes into a lill weird thing on the side of the motor. That is the fuel pump. It has an arm that goes into the engine to drive it (pump the gas). There is no pump in the gas tank (modern) but relies on gas in the line to pull more from the sending unit in the tank. U must put any 'fuel pressure gage' in-line after that pump (between there'n the carb). It really just measures the output of that pump.
BTW: Do Not do a head gasket at this point!

Do U have some hand tools? U don't need many & I can suggest a list if needed?

Enjoy some reading as U go along. Look into the sections of the material that apply to specific tasks U need to do. It's like havin a knowledgeable friend right there to "take care of U". Then come here for the extra....
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #16 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 09, 2018 11:14 am

I measured fuel pressure pass fuel pump, just before the gas line enters the carburetor, probably was doing something wrong....
I have shop manual, it looks more like manual for airplane, than a car....
I have tools, I did some work on the car myself - replaced rear leaf springs, wheel bearing, put new fuel pump etc.
Couldn't figured out the issue(s) with engine....

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chad
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C4/i6 car 'jumping in gear' only at low rev & Drive

Post #17 by chad » Sun Sep 09, 2018 12:35 pm

Oh yeah, ur 'on ur way' then. Well, there I go ass-u-me again ("when U assume U make an ass of U and me"). Well, luckly, only me this X. :|

There is a good tune up thread on here by bubba. If U can find it thru the search function or tech 'read only' ("stickies") at the index page I would recommend that. With a new carb the 'jumping in gear' & an auto transmish this could B the problem. There is also a cable frm a C4 to the carb on the i6 that is adjustable. Since things R going well right now U have time to read up on these things. When things get "jumpie" again U will B ready for action? That's my thought (carb set up, as said above), wish others would chime in here as I, like U, am not a pro mechanic.
Give that a try'n get back to us...
:beer:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #18 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 09, 2018 2:22 pm

rustywagon wrote:all plugs 60 - 120.
I added the oil to see if it would increase the pressure, it did not.
if the piston rings are ok (assuming adding oil did not change pressure), why pressure is low... Any other factors involved?
When I got the car, my friend put in new chain, could he install wrong? would engine still run with chain off?

I did another few trips with the car today, no jumping so far...
my wife drove it, and she confirmed - better accelerations, smoother ride.

I will check timing next week, possible replace head and manifold gasket.
Anything else I should check?

My neighbor - mechanic adjusted the new carb, old school guy, specializes in classic cars.

Distributor - I have the old one with pertronix in it, should it be replaced, meaning the distributor?

Also I tried to measure gas pressure, got gauge from O relies, hooked up the gauge at the end of gas line just before it enters carb, nothing, no reading at all.... car runs, so I am not sure what I was doing wrong....

Thank for help, M


It would be helpful to know the actual compression test numbers for each cylinder. However if I am understanding your above statement of 60 to 120, if one cyclinder is as low as 60 and another is at 120 this would be the problem. This is the reason why one or more have lower pressure, its likely caused by one or more valves not sealing against the valve seat since when you added oil it didn't change the results. You will need to pull the cylinder head and have a valve job done to fix that.

Yes the exhaust leaking at the manifold and donut can also be a cause of the engine not running well. It's somwhat like having vaccum leaks though it's not as serious of a problem. Yet it can have a small, effect the engines running condistion or tuning.

If your friend had installed the timing chain wrong the engine wouldn't even run so no it's probally installed right. I wouldn't be worried about the fuel pump and or the Distribitor at this point since the car runs. You can do a basic tune up (see below) to get the best out of your engine but the main problem you have is the engines compression imbalance. If all the cylinders are not within 15 % of each other (highest to lowest) then you won't be able to get the engine to run smoothly. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Tune up Tips you didn't state the year of your 3.3 engine or the car but here are Some basic tuneup specs for a 200 six
1. Spark Plugs gap with your Pertonix try .045 gap to start with if your using a Ford stock coil. If you have a Pertronix coil then you can experiment with a wider gap of .050 or a little more if you want.
2. Point gap is the next to set but With your Pertonix unit you would ignore this setting.
3. Base timing is set to 6 degrees BTDC. I set them at 8 to 10 degrees to start with depending on your local conditions sometimes going up to 12 degrees. Any pinging drop back down until it stops.
4. With the engine warmed up to operating temps and the choke fully open. Set idle mixture to lean best idle. This done by setting to the highest Idle RPM and then by turning the mixture screw in a 1/4 turn (leaner). This may be what your neighbor already did.
5. Last set the Curb idle to 550 to 600 RPM for an auto trans in drive with parking brake set, this will usually be 50 to 100 RPM higher when trans is in Neutral or Park.

The order of the settings can make a differance to the final tune this is why the carb settings are the very last thing. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #19 by chad » Sun Sep 09, 2018 2:32 pm

U left out the "see below" bubs.
Have a link to that great full tune up (?curb idle?) post U made?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #20 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 09, 2018 10:07 pm

every each cylinder was 60 - 120, all cylinders have the same readings.
The needle was jumping 60 - 120, probably cheap gauge.
There was not any difference when I added the oil.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #21 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 09, 2018 11:43 pm

The car is 1966, carb adjustments doesn't have anything to do with jumping. I actually replaced original Autolite hoping it would solve the jumping. Thank you all for your help. I will try to set the timing this week.
So far - no jumping..... Car seems to accelerate/run bit better when it's cold....
Thank you all for your help, I will follow advice given.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #22 by chad » Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:59 am

if each cyl is w/in 10% of each of the other 6 cyl that's good.
"60 - 120" is way off.
The guage, after the driver 'taps' the key a few times will rise & go no further. That's the reading. Hope it's 120'n not 60.
Not sure what is meant by the numbers U list, if U have the book U may B all set, confusing to me as shown here. I'll let it go.
Later gater
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #23 by rustywagon » Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:10 pm

I started the car in the morning, ran smooth, accelerated nicely.
As it got warmer, it started loosing power, felt like misfiring, when I stopped I had to press on brake, it was jumping so bad it was moving the car. I had to change to P on lights, it would die in D....
Vapor lock? How do I find out, if it's vapor lock?
Bad/overheated ignition coil? How do I find out/measure if I have bad IC?
I have some knowledge of basics and know ho to work with el. meter.
Any other ideas/inputs very appreciated - battling with this issue since I got the car, had 2 mechanics to look at it....
Thank you, Michal
what type of coil my car needs?, with our without internal resistor?

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #24 by chad » Wed Sep 12, 2018 1:12 am

dozens of things in my mind
coil too hot, points loose, cloged exhaust, cloged fuel filter, low level in carb bowl, vapor lock (less likely as that slows/sputters, no run at all - till heat/lack of fuel vapor in venturi & unfreezes in carb in 10 min to start again), also does not seem like SCV/LOM mismatch but needs checked ...

Fuel system v Ignit system
Each is checked out by starting at the begining (not middle), proceeding methodically to nxt step (no steps skipped ie components) all the way to the end. U started a lill on 'fuel'. Go a lill further w/that. All the way frm gas tank thru to carb interior.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #25 by Lazy JW » Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:55 pm

rustywagon wrote:every each cylinder was 60 - 120, all cylinders have the same readings.
The needle was jumping 60 - 120, probably cheap gauge.
There was not any difference when I added the oil.


Proper compression testing technique is to remove all spark plugs, then hold throttle wide open while cranking the engine through several compression strokes.
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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #26 by bubba22349 » Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:40 am

rustywagon wrote:I started the car in the morning, ran smooth, accelerated nicely.
As it got warmer, it started loosing power, felt like misfiring, when I stopped I had to press on brake, it was jumping so bad it was moving the car. I had to change to P on lights, it would die in D....
Vapor lock? How do I find out, if it's vapor lock?
Bad/overheated ignition coil? How do I find out/measure if I have bad IC?
I have some knowledge of basics and know ho to work with el. meter.
Any other ideas/inputs very appreciated - battling with this issue since I got the car, had 2 mechanics to look at it....
Thank you, Michal
what type of coil my car needs?, with our without internal resistor?


Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Check fuel pump by doing a pressure or volume test. Check that fuel filter is clean. Check rubber fuel lines are in good condition (no cracks) from fuel tank forward, fuel cap, fuel tank pick up sock.

Fuel pump testing
To check if your getting enough fuel volume up to the carb, do a fuel volume test by cranking the engine over. The very first thing to do is (to remove the coil wire to keep engine from starting) next with the fuel line disconnected at the carb's fuel bowl inlet and routed it into a fuel safe container. You will be looking for a pint of fuel volume in 20 seconds of cranking. If this test shows good volume then inspect the fuel filter or replace it. If there is a lack of fuel volume you should look at the condition of the fuel lines especially from the pump to the fuel tank if they all look good then examine or replace the fuel pump. Are there signs of the rubber in the fuel lines as being dried up or has surface cracks and or it may also be very soft and is collapsing etc. blocking fuel flow. Next would be the fuel tank pickup tube sock a deteriated sock can let the engine run ok at low speeds and yet restrict the fuel pickup tube as you need more fuel. The rest of the fuel system venting depending on the year of the car and if it's be modded from stock, check for a bad fuel cap by cracking it open part way, and or the fuel tank vent line, or if equipped with a vapor recovery system they can also be plugged.

You can test your coil by using a volt / ohm meter to test primary and secondary (see below link for info on coil testing). Test it at room temperature than when it's hot. You can get a good idea of the coils condistion by loosening up the coil wire (center tower) before you start the engine. Start the engine then pull the wire and see how far the spark jumps use a set of insulated pliers or a wooden clothes pin to hold it so you don't get shocked. The spark should jump from a 1/2 inch to a 1 inch or more, the color of spark should be bright blue. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: Edited 9/14/2018 at 7:46 PM Az. Time.

Coil testing Basics with a Volt / Ohm Meter
https://itstillruns.com/test-ford-ignit ... 41137.html

:hmmm: One final though "What Goes In Must Also Come Out"! Check out your exhaust system for a plugged up catalytic converter (if equipped), a plugged up muffler, a bent up or a collapsed, crushed, or a flattened out tail pipe. Good luck in the hunt :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #27 by Funky Cricket » Thu Sep 13, 2018 4:42 pm

I would check for vacuum leaks at the carb and distributer (if vacuum advance). The black vacuum lines should all look good with no cracks or breaks. The carb should be sealed to the intake and not have air leaks at mount, or in carb it self.
I would also check Transmission fluid, make sure some old sludge is not causing the trans to stay locked up as you come to a stop. Make sure fluid is looking clear and doesn't smell like burnt toast.
Funky Cricket
6-less, but still dreaming of the next one.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #28 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:08 am

hi guys, I will follow your recommendations
could someone post a link to ignition coil I should use in my car?
I want to replace it, not sure what to get, resp. I don't know if, it should have internal resistor or not.
1966 6 cyl., 3.3L station wagon. AT
Thank you, Michal

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #29 by bubba22349 » Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:44 pm

:hmmm: You would not want a coil with an internal resistor on your 1966 Ford car! Stock Your Ford has a resistor wire built into the wire harness (also Fords & Mercurys from 1965 to 1974). However you also said that the car has a Pertronix ignistion system installed in place of the old ignistion point system. To answer your question as to which coil to use I would need to know which Pertronix unit is installed in the Distribitor, an Ignitor I, II, or III, so Take the Distribitor cap off and determine which Pertronix you have.

Did you test your current coil primary and secondary output according to the my last above post? What kind of coil do you have now? Do you know if the Pertonix is wired correctly? The Pertronix red wire should have a full 12 volts going to it test it with your volt meter. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #30 by chad » Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:46 pm

we're still chasing some Q that were never answered. Kinda "stabin in the dark" w/o answ.
Did U get 'the Handbook'? There's a bit of difference between these different models. U say I have a '66 200 ci but have U IDed it by casting numbers? Is it now a '68 + carb (U say "Autolote is gone")? Have not IDed the dizzy for us ("It has a Pertonix"). There is a pertonix coil for that (same company).

In some cases the separate components in the: 1) ignit system V the 2) fuel system can throw a curse on any diagnosis of a starting/running problem until all is IDed 'as is', "as supplied", in the car currently.

Still not clear what "jumping in gear" might be (as seen by an observer).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #31 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:31 pm

:hmmm: so rustywagion what did you find out about the Pertronix that is installed in your 66? :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #32 by rustywagon » Tue Sep 18, 2018 9:19 pm

Hi guys,
it had Autolite 1100 with automatic choke, it still has Load O Matic distributor in it with Petronix ingnition. I replaced the carb with Universal carburetor https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... t-carb-new.
I apologize for my ignorance, but where do I find casting number?
What do you need to know about Pertronix?, model?
C4 transmission

I took it to mechanic (specs in classic cars), he checked all, did timing, car runs better, but still jumps a bit. He doesn't know too much about 6cyl., said it's hassle engine.... He had one van (his son's) with 6in it in shop fixing, said it runs depends on weather....

There's some smoke from PCV valve/blowby, rings are worn, could it choke the carb?
Any additives to "fix" blowby?

Thank you!

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #33 by bubba22349 » Tue Sep 18, 2018 11:56 pm

Yes in order to recommend a good coil to you would need to know what model of Pertronix you have! Replace the PCV if it's old. Not a lot you can do about worn rings besides replace them if the blocks bores aren't worn too bad. I guess you could also try some good engine flush, then fresh oil and filter change add a can of "Restore" in place of one quart of oil and or also use thicker oil like 20 / 50. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #34 by chad » Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:47 am

"... Load O Matic distributor..."
LOM
frm ur research on "tech archive" &/or the Handbook U know it must have Spark Control Valve carb to match.
LOM / SCV '67'n earlier.

"... it's hassle engine..." if U have not done the research we recommend.

"...casting number?..."
for what?
* the carb has some hand stamped numbers (impression, not raised like castings) on the side/edge of the mounting flange.
* The motor hasem on the pass/left side behind the dwn tube of the exhaust (these R cast or raised ltrs/numbers).
* The head's can B seen by looking dwn frm above w/hood opened (cast also).
Again, all in the literature (above 4 free, the Handbook ~ $20).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #35 by rustywagon » Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:25 pm

Pertronix, 1266, label says Ignitor Ford 6 cyl., pre 1965.
Installed by mechanic, I've never checked the box, my car is 66... could it be the issue?
I have cheapo coil with internal resistor.
Hassle engine said the mechanic, I just wanted you to know what I deal with.... I had 2 mechanic specs in classic cars to look at the car, both respected and known around, both were not so thrilled to work on it....
Slowly checking all other stuff suggested before.... Thank you!

could blow by choke the carb?

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #36 by bubba22349 » Wed Sep 19, 2018 9:56 pm

rustywagon wrote:Pertronix, 1266, label says Ignitor Ford 6 cyl., pre 1965.
Installed by mechanic, I've never checked the box, my car is 66... could it be the issue?
I have cheapo coil with internal resistor.
Hassle engine said the mechanic, I just wanted you to know what I deal with.... I had 2 mechanic specs in classic cars to look at the car, both respected and known around, both were not so thrilled to work on it....
Slowly checking all other stuff suggested before.... Thank you!

could blow by choke the carb?


The 1266 Ignitor is one of the right ones that will work in your 1966 Ford 200 engine. The coil you have with an internal resistor isn't the right match for a Ford. A good coil to use is the Flamethrower 45011 (3.0 ohm) see below link. There are some others to though for the money it's a good coil, if you install one of them than gap your spark plugs to .045.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/p ... ocation=oh

:rolflmao: it's a hassle engine now that's funny! As far as I am concerned these engines are simple and quite easy to work on. :shock: I guess if your not wanting to work on one of the Ford Six's or even learn the basics than that might be considered a hassle. These cars are so easy you might want to start to study about them as you have the time then you will be able to do some or most of your own repair work. :bang: something to think about though if someone thinks it's going to be a hassle to work on your cat how do you know if your going to get good service from them? Did you change out the PCV yet? Though the blow by isn't a good thing, the blow by shouldn't choke your carb. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #37 by rustywagon » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:15 pm

I think I have electrical problem.
I drove today, it was ok.
I turned on lights, it started to choke, I turned lights off ran fine.
Where to look?

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #38 by rustywagon » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:20 pm

I replaced PCV valve, it rattles when engine is running, is it normal?
I am ordering the coil, thanks for the link.
I know the engine is simple, I am not mechanic so I am struggling, but the mechanics around do not want to work on them.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #39 by bubba22349 » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:51 pm

rustywagon wrote:I think I have electrical problem.
I drove today, it was ok.
I turned on lights, it started to choke, I turned lights off ran fine.
Where to look?


First place to start with an electrical problem is to test the condition of the battery charge and make sure it's fully charged and do a load test. Many auto parts stores will do this for you for free. Then also check the Alternator's condistion if it's charging or not, again this is usally free at many auto parts stores. From your description I think you will find that one of these two or both is the cause of the electrical problem.

rustywagon wrote:I replaced PCV valve, it rattles when engine is running, is it normal?
I am ordering the coil, thanks for the link.
I know the engine is simple, I am not mechanic so I am struggling, but the mechanics around do not want to work on them.


No the rattling of the PCV isn't normal, we mightbe circling back to the engines condistion maybe try the compression test again. This time pull all the spark plugs with the tester installed make sure the carb's choke and throdle are all the way open. Then crank the engine until the tester shows it highest reading then write it down. Repeate on the other cylinders. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #40 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 22, 2018 12:55 pm

looks like the rattling occurs only when car is in "jumping mode".
I checked battery and alternator - both ok.
voltage dropped to 12V when I turned lights on. I replaced the volt regulator, now ok.
Issue - voltage drops when car is in gear or reverse, it's ok when in neutral or park.
What and where to check?, neutral safety switch? Short in steering column?
I checked/cleaned all grounds in engine area so far (no change).
Thank you, I feel like going somewhere.....

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what duz-car jumping in gear-mean?

Post #41 by chad » Sat Sep 22, 2018 1:30 pm

"getting somewhere..."
Yes, ur putting ur hands on there'n learning. YOU are the ultimate on ur vehicle as U can C even the paid helpers 'back out'.
The manuals are almost mandatory as U (like the rest of us) were not born an expert. There R so many sub-systems on the 'automotive system' (starting, charging, running; breaking; coolant; etc) that using the resources save time'n money, and get stuff toward it's optimal performance. This is a very technical endeavor. Diagnosis can B difficult.

I'd agree - if in USA drive to the local 'big box' 'auto prts store' w/some tools. Pull the alternator in the parking lot of the store who has testing equipment (they put it on a machine, run it @ speed, test). Things did not go so good w/ur compression test (look in the manual for proper methodology) so I want to B sure the alternator is as should B (just 1 prt of that system).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #42 by bubba22349 » Sat Sep 22, 2018 2:54 pm

rustywagon wrote:looks like the rattling occurs only when car is in "jumping mode".
I checked battery and alternator - both ok.
voltage dropped to 12V when I turned lights on. I replaced the volt regulator, now ok.
Issue - voltage drops when car is in gear or reverse, it's ok when in neutral or park.
What and where to check?, neutral safety switch? Short in steering column?
I checked/cleaned all grounds in engine area so far (no change).
Thank you, I feel like going somewhere.....


The reason the voltage is dropping when turning on the lights (an electrical load) or putting the car in any gear (mechacnical load) is that both of these actions will cause an "extra load" being placed on the engine. When the engine isn't in good running condistion, the tune isn't right or there can be a part or parts that isn't in spec. causeing the engine to miss or run erratic.

If the Battery at its fully charged state is about 13.2 to 13.6 at the battery terminals (this can very some due to the local area your in). Plus the Alternator is testing good plus you have already cleaned all your wiring conections and grounds this would all be good news and the electrical system probally isn't the cause of your problem. Having some voltage drop when you turn on the headlites is normal but what is the voltage without the headlites on?

With the "extra load" magnifying the sumtoms of it jumping in gear its likely time to start looking at some other causes. At this point I would focus back on the engines condistion, as the "jumping in gear" may be caused by severial things. These could be a vacuum leak or leaks use smoke or carb cleaner to find out. An imbalance in compression between cylinders, so redo the compression test over as stated in my above post. Also could be an ignistion problem so test the spark plug wires and the Distribitor cap using your volt / ohm meter to see if they read in spec, also look at the condistion of the spark plugs too.

Other things to check, what's the condition of the ignistion switch? Did you get the coil replaced yet? The neutral safety switch is easy to test if it's good. First off it isn't likely to be bad if the car starts in park or neutral, sometimes they need a little adjustment if the gear selector isn't in the correct location on the gear indacator. A short in the steering colum probally is unlikely since the wiring in it well protected and is only for the horn and turn signals, do they work correctly? Glad you are making some progress good luck in the hunt. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #43 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 22, 2018 7:03 pm

There was voltage drop when I turned on lights (above normal drop), It got fixed when I replaced voltage regulator.
There's something going on with el. power while changing gears. Voltage is ok when in neutral or park, drops when in R or D. It goes up and down while charging gears.
I was trying to remove neutral safety switch, it felt apart. I hoped it was shorting there and with bad voltage regulator was causing the problem. But what I know.....
I ordered new neutral switch.
How do I bypass switch so I can work on the car...? Must be simple, 2 wires in, 2 wires out....
Thank you. M

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #44 by rustywagon » Sat Sep 22, 2018 7:12 pm

yes I replaced the coil with recommended above.
Ignition switch - what should I look for....
also there's rubber hose going to back of transmission, I think it's modulator valve. The hose it's just pressed in, should be there some sort of fitting? The valves I see online have threads....
Now I see the threaded end is screwed into transmission, I guess rubber hose is just pressed on the end....

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #45 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 23, 2018 12:20 am

rustywagon wrote:There was voltage drop when I turned on lights (above normal drop), It got fixed when I replaced voltage regulator.
There's something going on with el. power while changing gears. Voltage is ok when in neutral or park, drops when in R or D. It goes up and down while charging gears.
I was trying to remove neutral safety switch, it felt apart. I hoped it was shorting there and with bad voltage regulator was causing the problem. But what I know.....
I ordered new neutral switch.
How do I bypass switch so I can work on the car...? Must be simple, 2 wires in, 2 wires out....
Thank you. M


Voltage shouldn't really change much when in gear is the engine RPM dropping a lot? If it is then it's because the alternator output is also dropping along with it too. Are you sure the battery is in excellent condition? Yes two wires in two out, bypassing the neutral safety switch though isn't a safe thing to do because then the car can start in any gear.

What is the RPM the car idles at in N? What is it in D? Also do you know what the base timing was set at? Did you set the spark plug gaps to .045? Without knowing the answers to my questions I am starting to be at a loss in what direction the go.

rustywagon wrote:yes I replaced the coil with recommended above.
Ignition switch - what should I look for....
also there's rubber hose going to back of transmission, I think it's modulator valve. The hose it's just pressed in, should be there some sort of fitting? The valves I see online have threads....
Now I see the threaded end is screwed into transmission, I guess rubber hose is just pressed on the end....


On the ignistion switch look for a lot of slop with the key in the run position (engine running) a good switch feels snug in all positions Acc., Off, Run / On. Yes the rubber hose is just pushed onto the vacuum modulator. Pull the hose off if there is any sign of auto trans fluid coming out of the hose than it should be replaced otherwise it's likely ok. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #46 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:49 am

yes, V dropped significantly when in gear, was good in neutral and park. (N - neutral, D - drive).
Guy who was assisting me with checking voltage said it was going up and down as I was shifting. Good in Neutral, dropping in drive and reverse. I thought there was el. shorting in old, worn out neutral switch, I will find out later today when I bypass it.
I will also replace ignition switch, it's original. It's few bucks.... I just want to eliminate all...

I will replace all spar plugs today, set the 045 gap. I am not sure about RPM's - how do I measure? Timing was set by mechanic, classic car guy (found out means nothing......).
Thanks!

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #47 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:03 am

question, other 2 (from neutral switch) wires go to reverse lights I guess.
will reverse lights light up, resp. should light up when I bypass those wires?
Reverse lights do not work, I'd like t fix it also. Bulbs are ok.

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Re: car jumping in gear

Post #48 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 23, 2018 12:10 pm

rustywagon wrote:yes, V dropped significantly when in gear, was good in neutral and park. (N - neutral, D - drive).
Guy who was assisting me with checking voltage said it was going up and down as I was shifting. Good in Neutral, dropping in drive and reverse. I thought there was el. shorting in old, worn out neutral switch, I will find out later today when I bypass it.
I will also replace ignition switch, it's original. It's few bucks.... I just want to eliminate all...

I will replace all spar plugs today, set the 045 gap. I am not sure about RPM's - how do I measure? Timing was set by mechanic, classic car guy (found out means nothing......).
Thanks!


rustywagon wrote:question, other 2 (from neutral switch) wires go to reverse lights I guess.
will reverse lights light up, resp. should light up when I bypass those wires?
Reverse lights do not work, I'd like t fix it also. Bulbs are ok.


The neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the cars charging system (Alternator or Battery). The NS switch is only in use at the time the car is being started in the Neutral or Park position of the column shift gear indacator or when it's in reverse it will also turn on the backup lights. The neutral safety switch can't affect the cars running voltage much since it's only in use during starting of the engine or turning on the two reverse / backup lights when the trans is in reverse. If you plug in those two wires for the reverse lights bypassing the switch the lights will be on all the time, best solution is to replace the broken neutral safety switch.

The engine RPM is measured using a tachometer see below for a tune up style Tach / Dwell meter there are lots of others that were made. Check at your locale auto parts they may have them to buy (don't know if they also loan / rent?) or also find them used at yard sales, pawn shops, swap meet, etc. You could also use just a Tach but it's not as easy to see them when your trying to do a precession carb setting. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Example of a tune up Tach / Dwell meter
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/

Example of an Engine Tachometer
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SP0F000027 ... B00UM9WWXW
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rustywagon
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Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:35 am

Re: car jumping in gear

Post #49 by rustywagon » Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:34 pm

Understand on SN switch. Ordered new one. Will set and replace spar plugs later today.
I bypassed the SN switch wires, I also bypassed the reverse light wires - lights works now, did not work before. The SN switch was broken.
The Voltage doesn't drop when in gear. Car runs ok so far.... Haven't chance to drive too much though.
Not sure what caused the voltage drop, maybe faulty voltage regulator I replaced....
Isn't there hot wire in NS switch for reverse light which could of been shorting...?

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bubba22349
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Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: car jumping in gear

Post #50 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:51 pm

rustywagon wrote:Understand on SN switch. Ordered new one....

Isn't there hot wire in NS switch for reverse light which could of been shorting...?


I think a short happening in the NS isn't very likely, maybe somewhere in the wire harness that conects to the switch. This is a double switch that power comes in through one each of the two plug wires. And in this case it only happens when the trans is in Reverse then the power continues on through the switch turning on the reverse backup lights. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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