Lifter rattle and and temp?

Hey everyone I just had a pretty basic question today, I want to know how to identify if my 64 falcon engine is hydraulic or solid lifter because according to the ford shop manual for both 64 and 63 model years ALL ford sixes were hydraulic lifters but according to the falcon handbook and various other people ALL 144s were solid lifters so I wanna know how to check which I actually have to solve it once and for all, also this is because I’m noticing some lifter noise after it first starts up and goes away after a couple seconds I know this is normal on hydraulic tappets as they need a second to build pressure but if it’s solid I want to know if I need to adjust them, and I can’t tell from just looking at my rockers because ford did so,ermines put adjustable rockers on hydraulic lifters because it’s what they had left over, so any advice on how to figure that one out would be great. Another thing I’m concerned about is engine temps. Currently I have a 165 thermos in there and I know that’s no to good because you want the engine to get hot enough to burn off deposit and water out of oil but my worry is that here in az it is very common to have 100-110 degrees outside and I want to make sure that in slow traffic I’m not going to overheat hence the 165 thermostat so does anyone know how these guys handle 100+ degrees outside especially if I ever put AC on it like I plan that’ll put a heavy load on the engine although can a 144 even support ac I’m worried that with the ac in it won’t even have the power to pull away from a stop anymore lol as the engine is only making “90” horsepower new spin reality it’s making 50 and add AC onto that and I’ve got like only 30 HP to work with!!

Even solid lifters will make noise for a few seconds when the car starts, oil still has to be pumped into the areas, its just not as substantial as hydraulic. The Stude does it a little when it starts and goes right away and those valves are adjusted properly. If it continues after its warm, then yoy need to adjust them.

As for AC, they make electric powered AC units so you dont have to use real engine power for it. I would recommend that, i plan to use something similar eventually with the Ranchero.

Id try the 195 thermo. Especially now with fall here and winter. I dont know how cold it gets down there but im assuming its in the 50s-70s? I run a 195 in mine and i lve had some days in the 90s and have had no issues. Also remember, a 144 will put out less heat than a 200, with less horsepower comes less energy output and thus lower temperature in general. Id recommend a 195 in fall/winter and 180 in spring/summer. If youre super worried about heat, id only change the thermo to 160 if it stays spooky hot for a while. But thats pushing it. The 180 should do fine.

you are going to have hydraulic lifters. In '63 Ford switched ALL inline sixes to hydraulic.

Adjustable rockers on hydraulic lifters was not 'left-overs'

Stated in 63 Falcon shop manual supplement.

AZCoupe has different years in his write-up.

http://techlib.fordsix.com/wip/classic- ... six-specs/

The 170 Econoline's and Bronco's kept solid lifter cams into the 70's

50/50

http://techlib.fordsix.com/wip/classic- ... six-specs/

Lifters: ’60-’62 144/170ci engines had solid lifters, ’63-’65 144/170ci engines had both styles depending on the year and model, while ’66-UP 144/170ci engines had hydraulic lifters. All 200/250ci engines had hydraulic lifters. Example: The ’64 Falcon 170ci had hydraulic lifters, while the ’64 Ranchero 170ci had solid lifters.

Pull the valve cover, hook something around the push rod side of the lifter and see if you can manually collapse the lifters

That page needs an update

i'm done with the solid lifter years debates, pull it apart AND SEE WHAT THE HELL IS IN THERE!

I most definitely will when I get back there guys and let you know as soon as I do.

trip north scheduled?
Will U have a 'follow car'?

I don't know the full plan yet. I am driving my Civic back up to Colorado where the falcon is and the current plan is to meet someone halfway down who will follow me the rest of the way. The problem is over only got about 3 days to do this 700 mile trip which would be ok but I'm the only mechanically inclined person in the family so if it breaks down I'm the only one who can fix it and if it's to bad we might get stuck for awhile and miss our deadline.

I'm just thinkin a parts runner if broken dwn...ride to safety, motel or camp ground, etc.
Trouble w/these olders is some ada stuff takes awhile to come in frm...hub, nother state, etc.

Did U get in ur 2 hr shake dwn cruze?
When duz it need to go the interstate drive?

Advice from "Been there, Done that"...take it as you will. picking the car up with a rental truck and tow dolly will ensure peace of mind, and ensure you meet deadlines, as well as give you a set cost expectation.

Driving an untested older car WILL be the adventure of a lifetime, but only if you expect a couple breakdowns, an unspecified monetary lay out, and schedule set-backs along the way.

I have picked up a couple cars when I was younger, thinking optimistically, and lost time, money, blood, sweat, and tears every step of the way.

Good luck, and be safe!

current finances and hope 4 good luck seem to B factors here but...
I'd tend to agree. Also the 70 mph R not recommended.

He got
new wheel bearings,
flushed the coolant system,
has good compression,
new fluids,
OK tires...

not sure he tested the alt at the local auto prts store...

should bring - belts'n hoses, 14 & 12 gauge wire (etc), basic hand tools. More suggestions? The 1st 350 mi (6 hrs) R solo...

Howdy All:

X2 on sgtfixit's suggestion to tow/haul it where it needs to be. Too many unexpected things can do you in.

On the thermostat, FYI the rating on the thermostat is only an indication of the temperature of the water required to open the thermostat. It will not determine your engines operating temperature.

Good luck on your adventure.

Adios, David