New push rods

StarDiero75

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

Im about to yank the valve cover on my 66 200 to fix the leak, paint the cover, and adjust the rockers, if i can. They do clatter more than id like them to. I dont know if they are adjustable or not, and dont want to be unprepared for them being non-adjustable.

I have an adjustable sitting on the 65 engine previously in the car and was curious if i could just take the push rods and rocker off of that without doing anything else, or is that unwise? Should i get new push rods? Wheres the best place to get them if so? I saw some on ebay that said something about .30 over, how do i know whag to get or is that not necessary for this really? And how do i know what length to get? Isnt the point of adjustable to make the originals always work lol

Thanks guys,
Ryan
 
1 - I would say U don't have adjustable. That is 'backwards engineering'. The non R more advanced, less maintenance, etc. Some 1 would put them in if doing alot of motor work & needed that last lill bit to compensate for machining, pedestal change etc. Just MHO.

2 - not sure what displ the other motor is. Y swap push rods? They have the other motor's 'wear-in-specs'. To obtain correct push rods (again a swap is at machinin time) get an 'adjustable push rod" as it can stretch/shrink a lill (each is not infinitely variable but 'close enuff' to the sz of the specific application) to measure the correct length for that motor. It's all in the literature.
 
If I read correctly. You are moving your adjustable rocker arms and push rods from the 65 to the 66?

Then yes, you can reuse the old push rods. But, I would measure them to make sure they are the stock length. Was the 66 head milled a lot? If yes, then you may need new ones. Also, were the blocks milled? Then you may need new ones. But, measuring them is a start.

Also make sure there is no galling and that they are not bent. Try rolling them on a sheet of glass to make sure they are straight.
 
65coupei6":1zix5k5v said:
If I read correctly. You are moving your adjustable rocker arms and push rods from the 65 to the 66?

Then yes, you can reuse the old push rods. But, I would measure them to make sure they are the stock length. Was the 66 head milled a lot? If yes, then you may need new ones. Also, were the blocks milled? Then you may need new ones. But, measuring them is a start.

Also make sure there is no galling and that they are not bent. Try rolling them on a sheet of glass to make sure they are straight.
Click to expand...
Yes that is correct in what i plan on doing.

So i know nothing on whats been done to the 66. The guy i bought it from knew nothing about it either. I just got very lucky it ran and runs as good as it does.

So do i measure from top of the ball to bottom of the ball and make sure its the same length as top of the cup to bottom of the ball?
 
Howdy Back Ryan and All:

Sorry to be so slow getting back to you, I've been AFK for two weeks.

IIWIYS, I'd simply unbolt the rocker arm assembly from the '65, remove the pushrods and swap them, as is, to the '66 head. At this point it is unnecessary to measure anything. If the '65 set up was in working order it will offer a good place to start. Do not remove the '66 rocker assembly until you have inspected the '65 rocker assembly. The hydraulic lifters on these engine will be able to compensate for +/- .125" of clearances.

Caution- Be careful to twist the pushrods as you remove them so you don't accidentally pull out a lifter. Retrieving a lifter and replacing it into it's hole is a major pain! Sometimes a pushrod can want to stick to the lifter. Number the pushrods as you remove them for future reference. Carefully inspect the cups on each pushrod. Anything other than a clean, shiny inner cup and ball is likely an indication that the rocker arm shaft is plugged and restricting oil flow to that rocker arm. Wear is most likely on cylinders 1 and 2, because they are the last to get oil on startup.If you find irregular wear, report back. Carefully inspect the ball end of each rocker arm as well. If the cups and balls are all shiny- proceed.

If you were doing a valve job I would strongly suggest that you disassemble the rocker arm shaft for a thorough inside cleaning.

On startup, you will need to assess if the rockers need to be tightened or loosened. IF they are too loose they will be making a racket- clatter. Tighten the adjustment until the noise stops. If they are too tight they wii lake no noise but may be causing a vacuum leak because the valves are not being allowed to close. Loosen those adjustment nuts until they begin to clatter. That will put you in the ball park and you will have a feel for the adjustments. It is easiest to adjust the nuts with the engine off, but be sure to restart the engine frequently to make sure the lifters are pumped up. Tighten just enough to stop the clatter and then add another 1/4 of a turn. After the engine is buttoned up and driven for a couple of weeks you may need to go back and fine tune the adjustments. NOTE- the adjustment nut is interference fit so expect it to move tightly.

I hope that helps you. Be sure to let us know about your progress and good luck.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":346b88g6 said:
Howdy Back Ryan and All:

Sorry to be so slow getting back to you, I've been AFK for two weeks.

IIWIYS, I'd simply unbolt the rocker arm assembly from the '65, remove the pushrods and swap them, as is, to the '66 head. At this point it is unnecessary to measure anything. If the '65 set up was in working order it will offer a good place to start. Do not remove the '66 rocker assembly until you have inspected the '65 rocker assembly. The hydraulic lifters on these engine will be able to compensate for +/- .125" of clearances.

Caution- Be careful to twist the pushrods as you remove them so you don't accidentally pull out a lifter. Retrieving a lifter and replacing it into it's hole is a major pain! Sometimes a pushrod can want to stick to the lifter. Number the pushrods as you remove them for future reference. Carefully inspect the cups on each pushrod. Anything other than a clean, shiny inner cup and ball is likely an indication that the rocker arm shaft is plugged and restricting oil flow to that rocker arm. Wear is most likely on cylinders 1 and 2, because they are the last to get oil on startup.If you find irregular wear, report back. Carefully inspect the ball end of each rocker arm as well. If the cups and balls are all shiny- proceed.

If you were doing a valve job I would strongly suggest that you disassemble the rocker arm shaft for a thorough inside cleaning.

On startup, you will need to assess if the rockers need to be tightened or loosened. IF they are too loose they will be making a racket- clatter. Tighten the adjustment until the noise stops. If they are too tight they wii lake no noise but may be causing a vacuum leak because the valves are not being allowed to close. Loosen those adjustment nuts until they begin to clatter. That will put you in the ball park and you will have a feel for the adjustments. It is easiest to adjust the nuts with the engine off, but be sure to restart the engine frequently to make sure the lifters are pumped up. Tighten just enough to stop the clatter and then add another 1/4 of a turn. After the engine is buttoned up and driven for a couple of weeks you may need to go back and fine tune the adjustments. NOTE- the adjustment nut is interference fit so expect it to move tightly.

I hope that helps you. Be sure to let us know about your progress and good luck.

Adios, David
Click to expand...
I couldn't have asked for a better response. Thanks David! I'll get to that next week, i was just trying to get prepared but ill post again after i get to it. Thanks a lot!
 
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