Torque Strap

Gene Fiore

Famous Member
Since recently installing the classic inlines aluminum head and intake, I want to install a torque strap between the block and frame on the drivers side to prevent the intake from hitting the shock tower under hard acceleration. I want something more elegant that just a piece of chain. So I was thinking about adjustable rod ends(heim joints) with either threaded rod or threaded tubing in between. But what do I need to look for and where that will be strong enough? I've been trolling the internet but can't seem to find anything that will work yet. I went to my local Ace Hardware and they have heim joints and threaded rod but the thread counts don't match up. I was looking at 1/2 inch heim joints but the thread count is 20...and any 1/2 threaded rod is 13 thread count. Any ideas?
 
wondering is a sm hydraulic piston could B used. Stretch steada compress?
Am not a engineer so uncertain on psi rating (or length, or positioning, or construction, or, or, or anything else) just a thought.

I thought I'd seen the circle trackers use a fiber apparatus some time (some give - good for limited # of races, replaced as "stretched out of use" periodically as 'maintenance' item). Belt shaped w/metal reinforced holes, nother rope shaped.
 
Stock motor mounts? if so drill the motor mount through both side and rubber, install a 1/4 bolt all the way through it. use a lock nut and washers, leave just enough slack in it that it is not tight. I've done this with no failures on high HP street cars and it works really well.
 
get any further w/this Gene?
I saw an ~ 28 / 29 inch fiber 1 yesterday (corvette).

Do U know what sz (length) is needed?
 
I've bought 1/2 inch x 20 all thread steel rod from Grainger and McMaster-Carr... McMaster has ball joint ends, male or female style too.
 
Crosley":2su9ew2x said:
I've bought 1/2 inch x 20 all thread steel rod from Grainger and McMaster-Carr... McMaster has ball joint ends, male or female style too.
Thanks...I will check that out.
 
Gene Fiore":3kmi4pz3 said:
Crosley":3kmi4pz3 said:
I've bought 1/2 inch x 20 all thread steel rod from Grainger and McMaster-Carr... McMaster has ball joint ends, male or female style too.
Thanks...I will check that out.
Maybe bling it up by sleeving the all thread with a cheap chrome towel rack bar.
Have to close the gap with tape or maybe silicone chalk so it does not rattle.


i
 
So now looks like I can the heim joints and matching threaded rod that I need! Thanks for the tip Tony! Question is should I go with the 1/2 - 20 setup or 3/8 - 24 setup. Any big difference in strength between the two? Also for mounting plates...would 1/8 steel plate be strong enough or should I go with 1/4 steel plate? 1/8 inch would be easier for me to work with.
 
Sounds good Gene... McMaster Carr has many odds n ends that are helpful.. Grainger does too. Not always the lowest price, but they have it.

McMaster calls the heim joints : ball joints. Maybe heim is a trade marked name or something?

I have a 3/8 bolt in double shear on my engine. I used a chain since I like the redneck manly look. LOL The plate on my ngine is 1/8 inch... with 1/4 inch welded to that where the bolt goes thru. The plate on my engine has 3 bolts of 5/16 thread into the block. I would think your 250 engine is different than my 200 for mounting spots in front of my distributor where I bolted on to
 
The mount point I plan to use on the block is where the power steering pump bracket would normally be attached...there are already two 3/8 threaded holes in the block at that point. So I would need to make a 90 degree bracket...one side of the bracket with two holes drilled to mount to the block and the other side of the bracket with a single hole to bolt on the heim joint(rod end).
 
I finally gathered up all the pieces to make my torque strap and got it installed. The parts include 3/8 inch grade 8 threaded rod, chromemoly rod joint, 3/16 inch flat steel stock, grade 8 mounting bolts/washers, urethane bushings, aluminum tubing(to hide the threaded rod and make it look nice), jam nuts.

Here is what the top side looks like installed:
torque_strap.jpg

Here is the bottom side of the frame where the frame bracket mounts:

torque_strap2.jpg
 
Very Nice work man. (y) :wow: :cool:



Hey Gene!


What made you shy away from the Flord and Mustang Geezer type?

How much easier was the 90 degree plate than the other three methods below? Was it the welding that made you nervous?


https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums ... as.554242/
burnout289":279zrki3 said:
where's FLORD??

nothing else can beat the FLORD brace! this thing could stop the rotation of the earth if welded on right!!

i got tired of tearing motor mounts, so FLORD made me one of his special braces:
flordbrace.jpg


and it's made in the USA.
:flag: :USA: :USA: :USA:

flordbrace-jpg.512017

From a 13 second 66 Mustang by MustangGeezer.

Torque stay.

A good idea...
MustangGeezer":279zrki3 said:

eg "Competition Engineering Engine Limiter Torque Link Strap Mustang C4010"
s-l640.jpg
 
The 90 degree bracket at the block was a piece of cake. Just mounted the piece in my bench vise and whacked it with my 4lb sledge until I had the proper angle. The whole setup was based on a mopar torque strap I saw on line by Schumaker Racing. The frame bracket was 4 pieces that I made myself and then took to a buddy to have welded up. The four pieces were the bottom plate...the vertical piece with the bend in it where the threaded rod connects to...and 2 "biscuits" that was used to box in the other two pieces.
 
Very professional Gene.
Are you going to hit the 1/4 mile again??
 
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