Engine tune and questions

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hello everyone I hope you all had a good weekend. I think I am going to take other peoples ideas and play it safe and trailer the car down. But I still will use it as a daily driver for the 6 mike drive to school and back. But besides that I have some questions still. I remember earlier on this forum I asked if I should install hardened valve seats, I do not know of this engine has ever been touched or the head has ever come off to have hardened seats installed but judging by how it looks and the odometer I think it’s safe bet to say it has 124,000 or even 224,000 miles non rebuilt engine. Now I remember a few people said just drive it for awhile save up money and plan on replacing the head later, I seem to like that idea I just need it to drive somewhat reliably for a year so I can finish school first. How hard is it to pull the head and get them installed real quick. But who knows maybe it has been rebuilt and has hardened seats already, it has great compression still 140 PSI. I need to check if it even has the original head still on it because it has a 1963 exhaust manifold on it it might not even have the original head still on it.
 
Oh and what head should I look out for a stock to mild 144. And my last question is i got some basic 3 point seatbelts would be stupid to mount the part where the shoulder belt comes from at the pillar before the door or is it to weak to support anything
 
falcon_master":1xq0mpxt said:
Hello everyone I hope you all had a good weekend. I think I am going to take other peoples ideas and play it safe and trailer the car down. But I still will use it as a daily driver for the 6 mike drive to school and back. But besides that I have some questions still. I remember earlier on this forum I asked if I should install hardened valve seats, I do not know of this engine has ever been touched or the head has ever come off to have hardened seats installed but judging by how it looks and the odometer I think it’s safe bet to say it has 124,000 or even 224,000 miles non rebuilt engine. Now I remember a few people said just drive it for awhile save up money and plan on replacing the head later, I seem to like that idea I just need it to drive somewhat reliably for a year so I can finish school first. How hard is it to pull the head and get them installed real quick. But who knows maybe it has been rebuilt and has hardened seats already, it has great compression still 140 PSI. I need to check if it even has the original head still on it because it has a 1963 exhaust manifold on it it might not even have the original head still on it.

paragraphs are your friend. that said;

1: you dont need hardened valve seats with modern fuels. this was necessary back in the day when unleaded fuel first became the fuel of the land, but the oil companies have since added a lubricant to the fuel that will sufficiently lubricate the valve seats and prevent valve recession.

2: since you have good compression, i would not touch the head until it actually needs work. dont spend money you dont need to. if you plan on reworking the head at a future date, then go find a head to rework and put money into that a little at a time. for instance lets say you buy the head, and after working for say a month to save up some cash, lets say $100, and you need say $75 to have the head milled for a two barrel conversion, then do that.

later on you an do other things as you can afford them. in the mean time the used head that you buy you can clean up, remove the valves and clean them, check them to see if they are still serviceable, use a dremel tool and some grinding stones to clean up the ports IE getting rid of sharp edges, casting flash, etc.

3: start buying parts when you can afford them as well, like new springs for the cam you intend to run, the new cam and lifters, a gasket set, etc. this way by the time you are ready to swap the head, and other parts, you have them on hand and can do the work in a long weekend and be ready to drive the car when the work day rolls around.
 
X2 what he said. If it aint broke, dont touch it, unless you have the money and time to do it.

Also, a head for you to go up on would be a 170. I have one if you want to ship it from Seattle, its a 63 170 head.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
If your really worried about your seats get a lead fuel substitute and add it too your tank at each fill up it can be bought at most auto parts stores

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/chem ... 9d16a0f52a

past that everything else has already been said dont try to fix what isnt broke, save your cash and enjoy the car. I did the same thing your doing when i first got my comet i got it up and running and reliable and safe and then i just drove it as it was till i was ready to rebuild everything. Made it a lot cheaper for me had a "small" initial investment and then nothing but gas, and the occasional oil change.
 
Howdy Back All:

Pulling a good head off to install hard exhaust seats does not make sense. If you must install hardened seats do it in conjunction with a head rebuild/valve job.

I'm in complete agreement with rbohm. With one addendum, start with a plan that begins with an outcome goal before you start buying parts and planning upgrades.

Before you start searching for a head core for rebuilding, consider that the '78 and later casting have several advantages over earlier heads.

FYI- no worries about a '63 exhaust casting on a '64 head. FoMoCo just couldn't get themselves to throw away good, last years parts so you'll often find last years casting codes on this years engines. '63 exhaust casting were frequently used to upgrade the '62 and earlier casting because of a better seal to the head pipe and are more crack resistant.

Ditto on the valve seats. Forget them. If you are getting a steady vacuum reading, no problem,

I'm glad to hear you are hauling the car up home. Good plan.

Adios, David
 
"...a plan that begins with an outcome goal..."
bingo.
I'm gunna bet you'll wait a yr, research, enjoy the ride'n think what would be beddah...
I was kiddin when I said "remote H2O pump, ele fuel pump'n fan, turbo" but by then'n with the classes U take - Y not?

Because a 250/4.1 might be cheeper'n easier 8^0
Enjoy/drive, plan, research, save'n maintain (4 now).
BTW: what kinda body, frame'n interior wrk duz this chariot need?

Congrats on the choice on return method. Ya done some nice wrk this summah, Y ruin it if U don't hafta!
 
She needs quite a bit. Now as car as driveability that's one thing. But for it to be "normal" it needs hole in floor patched, upholstery fixed, headliner fixed, rust on body fixed, and the 1/2" of bondo removed. As far as mechanical goes adjust clutch and check to see if bearings are needed, tune engine and timing, change diff oil, plumb oil pressure gauge and temp gauge, put 3 points in, put back in rear sit and find the bolts (didn't come with the rear seat bolted in) and grease the u joints.
 
"3 points" is a 'modern' seat belt? Do U have the 1980s bolts/tab mounts 4 it?
Glad it's goin on a carrier if the dif has not been re-lubed. When do U transport?
 
Howdy Back F_M:

Q- "But for it to be "normal" it needs hole in floor patched, upholstery fixed, headliner fixed, rust on body fixed, and the 1/2" of bondo removed. As far as mechanical goes adjust clutch and check to see if bearings are needed, tune engine and timing, change diff oil, plumb oil pressure gauge and temp gauge, put 3 points in, put back in rear sit and find the bolts (didn't come with the rear seat bolted in) and grease the u joints."

A- May I suggest that you quit trying to do everything all at once. You'll drive yourself nuts. Prioritize this list. Safety first. I used the window pillar to mount a shoulder strap on my '65 Ranchero. We talked about the structural strength of the window pillars in case of a collusion and decided it probably would not hold, but that it would slow my forward motion to add a slim amount of restraint. So, I mounted them there and used them.

Next would be basics. Tune engine and adjust timing, check diff for lube and add if needed. No need to change unless you want to. Adjust the clutch linkage is easy and doable anytime. I would choose to add mechanical oil pressure and temp gauge when I had time and money so long as you keep a visual check. on temp, fill level and leaks regularly. I mounted my gauge set under the dash. I would not do that again. Trying to check them down there is awkward and dangerous while driving. Mount them high.

The upholstery and body work would be last and most expensive and may require professional help unless you have those skills. On the hole in the floor, treat it liberally with a rust inhibitor before wielding up. That should be first of the body work. Use the rust inhibitor anywhere you see rust.

That's my two cents, for what it's worth. Good luck and keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for the info. What is actually did is got 3 points for the rest and for me and front passenger I got 4 points that mount to the floor. Seemed to me to be better idea and safer.
 
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