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Oil Pressure

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StarDiero75
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Oil Pressure

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Sat Sep 29, 2018 1:51 am

Howdy guys,

So recently after i tightened the head bolts, rocker arm shaft, and adjusted the rockers ive noticed higher oil pressure and that I'll get loud clatter up top after starting the car after it has sat for a little bit. At idle im running about 40psi, and idle is around 550-600rpm. That seems very high for oil pressure. Before i did this, it was 25psi and the clatter went away quicker. Sometimes i have no clatter issue now, sometimes i do. I notice it more when i go to drive at night.

Im guessing there was an oil passage in one of the bolts or one of the bolts are restricting oil. I tightened everything to spec as of the 1965 Ford Shop Manual, and detailed exactly what i did in the thread called "Perfection".

Help me out here guys.

Thanks,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #2 by chad » Sat Sep 29, 2018 12:22 pm

you'll C an "Oiling System" on p44 of Handbook. On pg 45 it shows a head bolt ('75 - '83) that hasa relief for passage of oil into the oil path.
Wondering if that'd help? I'd get onit quick if oil is restricted, glad U mentioned if.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #3 by StarDiero75 » Sat Sep 29, 2018 1:58 pm

chad wrote:you'll C an "Oiling System" on p44 of Handbook. On pg 45 it shows a head bolt ('75 - '83) that hasa relief for passage of oil into the oil path.
Wondering if that'd help? I'd get onit quick if oil is restricted, glad U mentioned if.

If theres a special head bolt from the 75+ 200s, can i just take that one bolt out and switxh it, or do i have to loosen all the head bolts?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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loss of oil pressure?

Post #4 by chad » Sat Sep 29, 2018 2:24 pm

what is it, #11?
Grind down the shoulder. This would B a simple check. May not B answer but quick easy 1st try effort
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #5 by StarDiero75 » Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:42 pm

Ok but so i can i just remove the one, or do i have to tske them all off?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #6 by falcon_master » Sat Sep 29, 2018 11:38 pm

If that's the bolt I'm thinking of the one on the passenger side that the falcon handbook mentions that could be it but I don't see how tightening it to specs would cause a blockage of flow to the lifters and rockers. But I could be wrong. I would personally think maybe something wasn't out back right or there is an instruction in the system maybe like some junk or piece of gasket something. I mean this with all respect lol and im probably wrong. Dud you change the deck height or mill the head at all.
Junior year high school AFJROTC cadet and car enthusiast. Likes all things ford and engines of any company. 64 falcon 2dr sedan,144CI and 3spd column shift. estimated 124,000 miles. Resurrected after sitting outside for 18 years, In process fixing for use as daily driver YouTube channel for repairs coming soon. “Old cars may break but are never broken”-RCR

drag-200stang
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #7 by drag-200stang » Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:01 am

I am thinking that caked oil all along the bolt, except where the oil liked to flow got dislodged when turned and blocked flow.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #8 by StarDiero75 » Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:46 am

So what would you all recommend i do short of pulling the head? It goes away when the car is fully hot, it just takes till then to go away.

I wouldnt mind pulling the bolt and replacing it with the later one for better oiling. But can i just pull that one bolt or will it damage the head pulling only 1 bolt? I'll pull the rocker assembly too to make sure its all clean.

Thanks guys,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #9 by chero1369 » Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:18 am

SD75,
Just pull the valve cover,rotate until there is no pressure on the springs on either side of the pedestal ,and pull the bolt.You shuldn't bend the rocker shaft or cause any damage if the pressure is off and if you don't try to run it.The shaft ought to take this minor abuse,they're not made from silly putty.this"special" bolt will have a shaft that is reduced above the threads and up to close to the head of the bolt.This is where the oil flows into the rocker shaft.
If poor maintance or cruddy oil with a lot of parrafins has caked up,a piece of it may have broken loose,clogging something.Try looking for oil flow coming out of the rockers when engine is running with the valve cover off.I cut the top off of a valve cover for this purpose.This didn't help the mess as much as I would like.it's still a mess.
Oil should come out of the rockers and some dribble off the bottom of the rocker at the shaft.But, yes,It sounds like something came loose and is causing a restriction.get some shop rags and start looking.Good hunting.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #10 by StarDiero75 » Sun Sep 30, 2018 7:23 pm

So apparently i cant just buy 1 bolt and i dont have $75 to buy the set. Can i take the bolt out and grind some of the top area out? Would it be risky reinstalling it?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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relief grind / 'clearence' a head bolt

Post #11 by chad » Sun Sep 30, 2018 7:58 pm

that's what's been suggested.
Alternately, find a '75 - '83 head bolt for that location (#11) as documented in the literature (p44).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: relief grind / 'clearence' a head bolt

Post #12 by StarDiero75 » Sun Sep 30, 2018 8:42 pm

chad wrote:that's what's been suggested.
Alternately, find a '75 - '83 head bolt for that location (#11) as documented in the literature (p44).

Thanks man, just wanted to be sure. I doubled checked the performance manual. Thanks a lot. I'll let you all know how it goes
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #13 by chad » Sun Sep 30, 2018 9:37 pm

I wonder if a luckis product I saw could flush the gunk outta that motor.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

frozenrabbit
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #14 by frozenrabbit » Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:58 pm

I've put a lot of miles on a ground down oil passage head bolt.

Just stay out of the threads, and grind a flat on one side of the bolt shank until you have about a 1/4" wide flat.

I'd run a small diameter wire bottle brush in the oil passage hole also to clear out any gunk.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #15 by StarDiero75 » Mon Oct 01, 2018 2:14 am

frozenrabbit wrote:I've put a lot of miles on a ground down oil passage head bolt.

Just stay out of the threads, and grind a flat on one side of the bolt shank until you have about a 1/4" wide flat.

I'd run a small diameter wire bottle brush in the oil passage hole also to clear out any gunk.

Ok ill give that a try! I have a few extra bolts to test it on.
How high up from where the thread ends should i go?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #16 by Econoline » Mon Oct 01, 2018 6:03 am

What weight of oil are you using and what brand oil filter? 40 psi is a good #, bearing clearances are good. Mine runs 45 psi once it warms up, starts around 55, on a fresh rebuild using 10w30. I've considered switching to 5w30 but I'm switching to synthetic next oil change and I'll see what that does to the pressure. If you are running a heavier weight oil like 15-40 or diesel type oil I'd say you should switch it to a lighter weight oil. Chevy engine, 25 psi is normal, Ford not so much.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #17 by StarDiero75 » Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:03 pm

Econoline wrote:What weight of oil are you using and what brand oil filter? 40 psi is a good #, bearing clearances are good. Mine runs 45 psi once it warms up, starts around 55, on a fresh rebuild using 10w30. I've considered switching to 5w30 but I'm switching to synthetic next oil change and I'll see what that does to the pressure. If you are running a heavier weight oil like 15-40 or diesel type oil I'd say you should switch it to a lighter weight oil. Chevy engine, 25 psi is normal, Ford not so much.


But the rockers are definitely not getting enough oil. Im using Rotella T4 10w-30. It is a diesel but its thinner than what Rotella usually does. It used to run about 30psi before i tightened it but the rocker noise went away much quicker than now and not nearly as loud. It has been fine with the Rotella for the past 1000 miles ive had it in for with no issues.

Im using a NAPA gold filter
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #18 by Econoline » Mon Oct 01, 2018 12:35 pm

I'm not saying you shouldn't try and fix that starved rocker issue. My 93 f150 300 used to do that. I always used wix or fram filters. I switched over to the motorcraft filter and it stopped. I would think that napa gold filter should be ok. I think it had something to do with the drainback valves in the others letting the filter empty everytime. I've heard my 250 in the van do that exactly once, it wasn't that long ago and I thought, ut oh, but it's never done it again. Other that the oil passage head bolt, you could look at the after rocker shaft bolt and make sure it is the correct thinned out shank type. If the head has adjustable rockers I'd check the preload on the pushrod/lifters as well.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #19 by frozenrabbit » Mon Oct 01, 2018 1:17 pm

I've got mine ground from the threads up to about 1/4" from the bolt head. '63 170 block and head, running 20w50 without issues.

I've got a '72 250 with the factory clearanced bolt, tapers down about 1/4' from head, then comes back to full diameter at the threads.

Could also reduce the diameter of a straight bolt on a lathe, I don't know the difference in the diameter, maybe 1/8" smaller diameter, not alot.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #20 by StarDiero75 » Mon Oct 01, 2018 2:01 pm

Econoline wrote:I'm not saying you shouldn't try and fix that starved rocker issue. My 93 f150 300 used to do that. I always used wix or fram filters. I switched over to the motorcraft filter and it stopped. I would think that napa gold filter should be ok. I think it had something to do with the drainback valves in the others letting the filter empty everytime. I've heard my 250 in the van do that exactly once, it wasn't that long ago and I thought, ut oh, but it's never done it again. Other that the oil passage head bolt, you could look at the after rocker shaft bolt and make sure it is the correct thinned out shank type. If the head has adjustable rockers I'd check the preload on the pushrod/lifters as well.

I was just in the top area. The rockers made noise before but i tjought that was due to them being loose, but i adjusted them and tightened the head bolts, which is why i believe it was the head bolt that did it. I plan on grinding it down a little and trying that. Hopefully itll be good
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #21 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 2:23 am

So i did my grind today and the noise stayed. I readjusted the rockers and it goes away (fan belt off). Put valve cover back on and put fan belt on, noise comes back. I disconnect PCV and hook up vacuum gauge and it fades away. I reconnect PCV and it stays gone. I start it later and it there but very faint. After parking it for awhile elsewhere its back and as loud as before.

I dont believe the PCV has any thing to do with it, just coincidence. But its coming from the front of ththe engine like either #1 rocker or maybe water pump/alternator area. When i park kinda downhill the noise fades away to almost cant hear it, and of course i park on a hill at my house.

When i go to school tomorrow im gonna check it out again but im gonna try disconnecting the fan belt to narrow my search to either definitely rockers or front engine stuff. Ill take a video tomorrow but it sounds like a rocker noise but what do i know.

Is it possible for a bad water pump bearing to mimic a dry rocker noise?

Thanks,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #22 by drag-200stang » Fri Oct 05, 2018 9:14 am

Fact, fan belt can make kind of a grinding noise, I changed a water pump because I was sure it was bad . :bang:
Exhaust leaks can sound like a tappet lifter or rod knock.
Vacuum leaks can make a lot of odd sounds...Completely tore down my freshly rebuild 200 after I bent two rods, it make a binding sound when barring over by hand...Nothing wrong. :oops: Just a small vacuum leak.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #23 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 10:32 am

I'll check it all today. The exhaust leak dont suprise me though.

Thanks a lot man!
Ill let you all know how it goes
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Oil Pressure: idle v WOT v cruze

Post #24 by chad » Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:27 am

I like the H2O pump idea. Get the GMB if needing 1.
I have not followed ur 'new motor'/swap motor, changes. If it's a motor w/a few miles on it
it also needs a good "flush the oil system" kinda thing. The oil pressure will tell the tail there.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #25 by fast64ranchero » Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:35 am

I've had Mech. fuel pumps make noises also.
63 Ranchero,1965 Mercury Comet Convert V-8, 1978 Fairmont small six, mill'd off intake, 62-1 ET 12.332 @ 123.49 mph (gone)

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #26 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 2:43 pm

So the noise disappears entirely when the Vbelt is disconnected. Its either the water pump or alt. Both are less than 2 years old :(. Ill post a video and a link here shortly. My guess is the water pump
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #27 by Econoline » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:31 pm

How about when you tightened the front head bolt that goes into the water jacket it got it *just* into the water pump impeller....
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #28 by mustang6 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:33 pm

Based on your removing the vbelt test I am 99.9% sure you are right it is one of those (or the head bolt hitting internally like Econoline suggests). If neither of those test out though, I once ran into a worn front main bearing issue that made noise when cold when the belts were installed and pulling the crank up, but went away with the belts off. This was on a V-8 though, with a high upward belt load- water pump, alternator, power steering, and A/C. Interestingly I found that Ford actually put out a TSB back in the day for this sort of issue, but IIRC it was for V-8 only. With 7 crank bearings and the more side angle location of accessories on the engine, I think it's unlikely that would happen on a six cylinder.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #29 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:40 pm

Econoline wrote:How about when you tightened the front head bolt that goes into the water jacket it got it *just* into the water pump impeller....

I just wiggled my fan and its the water pump bearing. Im peeved. Dont buy rockauto guys.

So ultimately, this is not an oil issue. Lol. Im gonna get a new one and try that. If it still nakes the noise, what would yoy recommend loosening and retorquing that bolt to? Currently its at 72lbft
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #30 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:45 pm

The GMB looks promising chad. Thats the aluminum one in the handbook. Any benefit to the alum one rather the cast one?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #31 by Econoline » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:46 pm

If it is the bolt, you'll have to shorten it. If it's hitting it now, it's probably b/c the bearing is shot.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #32 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:52 pm

Econoline wrote:If it is the bolt, you'll have to shorten it. If it's hitting it now, it's probably b/c the bearing is shot.


If i spin it by hand i get a weird hum but no hitting noise. But its also not under load. But if its not hitting when the belt aint hooked up, that just means the bearing is shot, right?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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top end - motor frnt noise, loose H2O pump shaft

Post #33 by chad » Fri Oct 05, 2018 6:10 pm

no, impeller's not turninig into "too long bolt" as well (2: bering & bolt simeltaniouly).

Anyway 2 answ ur Q: I wuz not aware of Handbk cite when I bought - I bought due to larger/spec shaped impeller. It
is for a/c equiped car so pushes more H2O around or may B it's actually same amount - faster? Take a look at how it
is designed differently than others on all the on-line pics. Click to flip them onto their back/motor side. C 'fins'.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #34 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:02 pm

I went ahead and ordered it from summit. The review it had on there said it was good, and it was mentioned in the handbook so it must be good.

Thanks a lot guys! Will update on thursday when i do it.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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noise, loose H2O pump shaft

Post #35 by chad » Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:21 pm

push yer finger up in there to feel 4 bolt (unless U took offa 1/4 inch B4 tqin dwn),
Look @ impeller 4 damage frm the bolt,
spin it by hand B4 any liquid gasket is applied 2 C if it hits...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: noise, loose H2O pump shaft

Post #36 by StarDiero75 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:28 pm

chad wrote:push yer finger up in there to feel 4 bolt (unless U took offa 1/4 inch B4 tqin dwn),
Look @ impeller 4 damage frm the bolt,
spin it by hand B4 any liquid gasket is applied 2 C if it hits...

Already planned on it man. Thanks a lot!
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Econoline
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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #37 by Econoline » Fri Oct 05, 2018 10:53 pm

If you can move the wtr pump shaft in any lateral direction across it's axis and it's got play it's done.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #38 by drag-200stang » Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:31 pm

Fact, a bad water pump can sound like a bad water pump even if its only two years old. :wink:
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #39 by StarDiero75 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 12:01 am

drag-200stang wrote:Fact, a bad water pump can sound like a bad water pump even if its only two years old. :wink:

You dont say :lol:
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #40 by bubba22349 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 12:04 pm

:rolflmao: Yes and a bad water pump can sound like a good water pump even if it's only 2 or 3 months old! I had replaced the water pump on my 1977 Maverick in summer of 77 with a rebuilt cast iron water pump. :shock: This pump didn't leak or have any bearing noise but within a short amount of time the cast impeller had disintegrated so there was no flow. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #41 by CZLN6 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 12:18 pm

Howdy Back Ryan and all:

About water pumps, FYI, please note that the later model aluminum water pump has a longer snout. If clearance is an issue, be warned. Also the AC water pumps did move more coolant through the cooling system but also took more HP than the non-AC water pumps. Not a lot of HP but if that matters to you there it is.

The reason we searched out the late model aluminum bodied water pumps was because I put a 250 engine into my '65 Ranchero. The additional weight on the front end of the car was really noticeable in its handling. We were looking for ways to reduce front end weight- Moved battery to the back and looked into the aluminum water pump. But the longer snout ruled it out in my case.

I hope that is useful information to you. Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #42 by StarDiero75 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 1:58 pm

Which part is the snout? I dont have any clearance issues so far. Is that the piece that goes off to the side for the lower radiator hose? I currently have an AC cast iron water pump on it so i wont notice any difference in power lol. I plan to go to an electric fan so that'll regain some horsepower then.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #43 by CZLN6 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 4:00 pm

Howdy Bac k Ryan:

The snout is the part that holds the shaft from the impeller to the fan blade mount. The snout houses two bushings and a seal. It expends from the water pump forward to the fan mount. I'm guessing that it adds about an inch to engine length. You'll find a photo comparison on page 44 (depending on what edition you have) of The Handbook. Or compare the photo in the Summit catalog to yours. The long snout water pumps first appeared with the 1979 200s in Fairmonts and Mustangs.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Oil Pressure

Post #44 by StarDiero75 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 5:09 pm

Oh crap then that wont work with a stock 66' engine. My dampener wont line up. Well ill find out how it all works out when i get it. Hopefully the snout aint long or i gotta return it.

The one off of summit said it is good for 60-7something. The review it has was for a 66' so hopefully it'll be good
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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