Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Matthew68":2ufrtibr said:
frozenrabbit":2ufrtibr said:
Just looked over my rocker assembly. You referring to key/tabbed pedestal was throwing me off.

The front pedestal has an overflow/return passage that lets oil back out of the rocker shaft. All other pedestals are the same, with a slightly squared off hole.

I'd say the sealant on the driver's side rear head bolt and that oil passage is your issue.

Sorry, I didn't know the technical term to it. Ok, it sounds like we're all set. The only thing I'm still confused on is where is this different bolt? Every one of mine (I have two different sets of bolts), are all identical....
Your bolts are all necked down, you are good to go on that...Some engines came with only one...The front pedestal with the oil deal is to help lube the distributor gear, by way of more oil running down on it...Late engines it was deleted and are all the same...
So if you have play around the lower shaft hole and the bolt and also the pedestal with the bolt (it does not have to be a lot) I think that you are good with the shaft.
 
frozenrabbit":2eqfuni7 said:
All the pedestal bolts are the same size.

Are you referring to the oil passage head bolt? Early sixes head bolts were all the same. Late 60's, maybe early 70's, Ford put a tapered shank bolt in the oil passage. This is the rear driver's side head bolt.

Damn, I’m getting so confused, sorry. Good to know. I used all ARP studs, not bolts.
 
“…Some engines…”
“…Late engines it was…”
Now, that might B where it matters...
What R the year'n displacement parameters U cite?
I like stock'n accompanying mix'n match but doesn't this guy got the VI alu head?
That makes it outsidea my experience...

4 mine the pedestal bolts R all necked dwn. Did not ck the frnt pedestal 4 oil passage. Cked that lill "kidney shaped" puddle on the block, #11 head bolt'n so-forth...

Havin fun yet? 8^0
 
Chad,
The kidney puddle is in the head , and if is not there any more as WSA 111 first said, that could be the problem.
 
Ok, I just took a look at a pic of the head before I installed it. The kidney bean shape is definitely still there. I bought a pump priming tool, I’ll be running that once it arrives today to see if it just didn’t prime long enough. With an electric drill, how long should I expect to run it before getting oil?

69DD9DF3-DA58-49C2-B84B-AB4AC52B0DFC.jpeg
 
It is definitely there but little shallow ...In another thread you said it was milled .050, that head has been milled a lot more than .050 and needed work...That said with a .044 gasket it should work but if it got gouped up with sealers maybe not..
I have never timed how long it takes but it seems like forever, and longer if your drill will not produce good pressure ...Being that you are in OHIO it would be good to heat the engine some.
A running engine will flow more than a drill because the turning parts help move the oil through the maze that it has to travel..
 
Correct, it was milled .050” to get to 51.5 cc on the combustion chamber to keep compression ratio the same. I’m using the Victor head gasket.

I’ll remove that stud, clean it and replace it. Then I’ll pull the dizzy and try priming it. The other thing I’m wondering is if I used too thick of oil, straight 30. I’m nervous to heat the engine by running it in case there is an oiling problem I don’t want to cause more issues that way.
 
Do not run the engine, use an electric heater of some kind blowing on the pan, will take some time...the part about more oil flow when turning was to tell you that there will be more oil flowing when the engine is running ..Of course check when you do start and run it..
 
Just as a caution pull all of the plugs before u start it and crank it over in case the cylinder may have filled with any liquid ...I do this on any head change, new build...Stuff happens.
 
U can hear it ("slop, slop, slop") as the drill turns the pump.
Keep goin till U C it 'up top'. This is 1 reason 2 use 'assembly lube'.
It protects during this, the heat (wood stove near here) helps counter that.

I believe U replied affirmatively when queried re: The Handbook. Look for the
highlghted info re: "kidney shaped puddle". Confer w/Matt re: VI alu head.
 
NO OIL FLOW TO THE TOP OF MY 1966 RANCHERO W/SIX CYLINDER 200 CID WITH 64k MILES

I bought a 1966 Ranchero W/200CID that had not run since the 1990's when I got it started it, tappets were noisey on and off, I took the valve cover and it was almost all solid with oil sludge and no visual oil flow to the top. in 1971 I bought a 1961 Mercury Comet with a 170 CID with the same problem but not as dirty, in that case I blow air and that unplugged the kidney passage. on this 1966 200 CID that has not work. I disassembled the valve train and unplugged all passages, I blow air in the gully in the rear pedestal, no luck, A took the oil filter and pump oil it flowed to the oil pressure outlet and I could hear the oil gurgling at the valve lifters but that was that. it did not flow up to the top head and valve train. When I crank the engine it registers 45LBS pressure in the oil pressure sensor outlet. I took the oil pan out and clean it and the oil pump strainer ( which was plugged solid)I replace the engine oil with 5-30W. the passage on the head is clean I just can't tell if the passage is plugged on the other side of the oil kidney. all bolts look original and are the same size, all passages on top are clear,

synopsis: ENGINE HAS oil pressure to the oil sensing unit (45Lbs.). I blew air 100 to 150 PSI's still no flow, all top passages are clean, all bolts are original and the same tapered and size, the oil pump's oil strainer is clean. the only thing I have not been able to check is the flow gully from the kidney shape cavity from on top of the block to the mains/cam bearings. any suggestions? :banghead:
 
"...any suggestions?..."
yes - follow along, a sim. issue here.
Hold out'n watch, try not to jack this thread, or start ur own & I will visit (along w/others I'm sure).
Too many folks on 1 thread becomes confusing. Sorry, I'm not usually a nanny,

This is a fresh, 'new' head - USA iron block/Oz 2v head. A lill different I think...
 
One thing you can try is pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill. I believe its a 5/16" hex drive. Spin it for awhile like 10 mins and watch the top end. If no oil comes up, take the rear driver side headbolt off and spin it again. If its getting a lot of oil, it should overflow the bolt area and go up. Id think that'd eliminate the block as a problem if oil comes up. Others will give you some more things to check.
Also try pulling the rear rocker bolt, i believe oil comes up through there too.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
66ranchero":xtmcgu6g said:
NO OIL FLOW TO THE TOP OF MY 1966 RANCHERO W/SIX CYLINDER 200 CID WITH 64k MILES

I bought a 1966 Ranchero W/200CID that had not run since the 1990's when I got it started it, tappets were noisey on and off, I took the valve cover and it was almost all solid with oil sludge and no visual oil flow to the top. in 1971 I bought a 1961 Mercury Comet with a 170 CID with the same problem but not as dirty, in that case I blow air and that unplugged the kidney passage. on this 1966 200 CID that has not work. I disassembled the valve train and unplugged all passages, I blow air in the gully in the rear pedestal, no luck, A took the oil filter and pump oil it flowed to the oil pressure outlet and I could hear the oil gurgling at the valve lifters but that was that. it did not flow up to the top head and valve train. When I crank the engine it registers 45LBS pressure in the oil pressure sensor outlet. I took the oil pan out and clean it and the oil pump strainer ( which was plugged solid)I replace the engine oil with 5-30W. the passage on the head is clean I just can't tell if the passage is plugged on the other side of the oil kidney. all bolts look original and are the same size, all passages on top are clear,

synopsis: ENGINE HAS oil pressure to the oil sensing unit (45Lbs.). I blew air 100 to 150 PSI's still no flow, all top passages are clean, all bolts are original and the same tapered and size, the oil pump's oil strainer is clean. the only thing I have not been able to check is the flow gully from the kidney shape cavity from on top of the block to the mains/cam bearings. any suggestions? :banghead:
Welcome to the forum.
Can you put your location in, like mine shows, it helps us help you...as far as the oiling, every thing in this thread applies to your engine...Do you know if it was rebuilt and after did it have flow to the rockers ?..If the cam bearing was not aligned right no flow...Is the head on or off at this time?
 
66Ranchero, don't jack someone else's thread, this thread is long enough that people are just re-posting the same suggestions because they aren't reading what's already been posted
 
Success!!!! I bought an oil pump priming tool and used a drill. Took about a minute and twenty seconds but oil is now flowing out of the rocker shaft just in time since my drill was starting to smoke too!
 
Great, light her up.
How does it perform?? Bill
 
wsa111":bg59fgw4 said:
Great, light her up.
How does it perform?? Bill

Almost there. Since the old dizzy was pulled, I'm getting ready to install the DUI that you recurved for me. Trying to track down a good timing light and put the header extension pipes on. When I first fired up before checking for oil it was incredibly loud, so anything I can do to help.
 
Matthew68":11dl5vc4 said:
Success!!!! I bought an oil pump priming tool and used a drill. Took about a minute and twenty seconds but oil is now flowing out of the rocker shaft just in time since my drill was starting to smoke too!
Good deal :beer: ..... So did it seem like it took forever to prime ?
I think I got this one,....Where is that pat myself on the back imoge.This will do :nod:
All kidding aside, you did the right thing by being careful.
Check that the timing marks on the dampener has not slipped on the rubber.
 
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