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Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

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Matthew68
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Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #1 by Matthew68 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 7:22 pm

HELP!

Fresh Australian in-line 6 cylinder head rebuild and went to fire up today for the first time. The issue we ran into was oil is not flowing to the head. I’m getting 40-45 psi pressure on the mechanical gauge, but we were unable to visualize any oil flowing. We turned the engine over for quite some time without the coil to dizzy wire hooked up to prime until we got good pressure. Then connected the wire and fired. Let it run for 5 seconds or so, no oil moving. Removed the front rocker pedestal bolt (circled below) and nothing. Also switched the keyed plug to one side to see if we could visualize and nothing still. Pressure when running was in the 40s.

Never had this issue with the previous head. Stock block, it was not touched. New rocker shaft, all pedestals and parts were put through the cleaner so nothing is plugged up. I put 4.5 quarts of straight 30W with zinc additive. Head gasket is on correctly, had two different sets of eyes on it.

Not sure where to go from here!! So frustrating!!
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wsa111
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #2 by wsa111 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 7:53 pm

If the head was milled.
There is an oil transfer slot in the head surface. It directs the oil from the lr oil galley right above the sender to the head surface. If the transfer slot is not wide enough you will get no oil to the rear rocker shaft pedestal. Did you install the correct bolt in the rear rocker arm stand?? It is narrowed to let oil to the shaft.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6al & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #3 by Matthew68 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:20 pm

wsa111 wrote:If the head was milled.
There is an oil transfer slot in the head surface. It directs the oil from the lr oil galley right above the sender to the head surface. If the transfer slot is not wide enough you will get no oil to the rear rocker shaft pedestal. Did you install the correct bolt in the rear rocker arm stand?? It is narrowed to let oil to the shaft.


The head was milled. I did not pay any attention to which bolt I used on the rocker pedestals, I’ll have to check those tomorrow.

I did not widen any slots in the head of the block.
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drag-200stang
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #4 by drag-200stang » Sun Oct 21, 2018 8:57 pm

It may take awhile.. The oil has to go from the oil galley down to the rear main bearing over the slot in the bearing and up a hole to the cam bearing around the groove in the cam out a hole up to the block deck, over to the drivers rear head bolt by way of the kidney notch in the gasket and head , up around the head bolt hole to an intersecting passage to the rear shaft pedestal bolt boss, around pedestal bolt to the shaft...
If you are confident that you lubed the rocker and all points well, I would run it a little longer...30 WT is thick if it is cold out.
If still no oil something along that crazy oil path is blocked...
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #5 by drag-200stang » Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:23 pm

The stock head bolts neck down allowing oil flow up and around that drivers rear head bolt and if studs are used there it can slow flow to the pedestal , like the necked down pedestal bolt that Bill typed about.
Unless you are using a stock steel shim gasket I do not think that milling the head is a problem, yes making the head slot deeper is the right thing to do but, if you think about it if you mill the head 70 and used a 40 thicker gasket is the passage that much smaller.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #6 by Matthew68 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:43 pm

drag-200stang wrote:The stock head bolts neck down allowing oil flow up and around that drivers rear head bolt and if studs are used there it can slow flow to the pedestal , like the necked down pedestal bolt that Bill typed about.
Unless you are using a stock steel shim gasket I do not think that milling the head is a problem, yes making the head slot deeper is the right thing to do but, if you think about it if you mill the head 70 and used a 40 thicker gasket is the passage that much smaller.


I am using studs. Do I need to put a notch in that driver rear stud? What exactly is different about the rear most pedestal bolt, is it thinner?
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #7 by StarDiero75 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:47 pm

Pull the rear head bolt to see if you're at least getting oil into the head. If so, take out the rear rocker bolt. And see if it has oil there. Something may be blocked somewhere and you should find out if its in the block or head
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
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wsa111
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #8 by wsa111 » Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:00 pm

Nothing to do with head bolts or studs. The oil to the head is right above the oil sender on the LR of the block.
One thing you could do is remove the entire rocker arm assy.
Remove the oil sender.
Blow compressed air into the oil passage on the LS of the removed pedestal bolt removed & see if air comes out the oil sender opening.
If it does not pull the head. The oil transfer slot is blocking oil to the head.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6al & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #9 by drag-200stang » Sun Oct 21, 2018 10:29 pm

Matthew68 wrote:
drag-200stang wrote:The stock head bolts neck down allowing oil flow up and around that drivers rear head bolt and if studs are used there it can slow flow to the pedestal , like the necked down pedestal bolt that Bill typed about.
Unless you are using a stock steel shim gasket I do not think that milling the head is a problem, yes making the head slot deeper is the right thing to do but, if you think about it if you mill the head 70 and used a 40 thicker gasket is the passage that much smaller.


I am using studs. Do I need to put a notch in that driver rear stud? What exactly is different about the rear most pedestal bolt, is it thinner?

The stud may be tight to the intersecting hole to the pedestal maybe try turning it 180 looser, so it is different...It would take careful grinding at the right place to mod the stud...With a clean head a stud should not be a problem...Could replace stud with bolt to test.
Yes to pedestal bolt is thinner just below the head to the threads...All bolts where changed to the necked down style at some point not sure what you have...No washers under the pedestal right...
If you pull the last bolt to check, make sure that turn the crank so the #6 valves are closed first...fill the shaft with oil thru the bolt hole and replace the bolt and try a little longer...At this point I think that 5 seconds is not long enough, but do not over do it.
Let us know what u find.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #10 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 8:33 am

Thanks, I’ll check all the bolts and remove the assembly. A couple dumb questions while I have the assembly off:

1. The front pedestal (front of car) is the larger pedestal with the tab. I have it in the correct location, right? Or does that one go at the back?

2. The shaft is new. Do the oiling holes in the shaft face up, or down?
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #11 by drag-200stang » Mon Oct 22, 2018 9:02 am

Matthew68 wrote:Thanks, I’ll check all the bolts and remove the assembly. A couple dumb questions while I have the assembly off:

1. The front pedestal (front of car) is the larger pedestal with the tab. I have it in the correct location, right? Or does that one go at the back?

2. The shaft is new. Do the oiling holes in the shaft face up, or down?

1. It goes on the front.
2.The holes in the shaft goes down.
That drivers rear head bolt is blind and no sealer is needed there and sealer could block a compromised head oil flow notch,milling ,bad casting etc.
It is possible to force the gasket on wrong and it will block flow but you have to try, It has been done before. :?
Last edited by drag-200stang on Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

drag-200stang
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Post #12 by drag-200stang » Mon Oct 22, 2018 9:02 am

Double clicked :oops:
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #13 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 9:51 am

drag-200stang wrote:
Matthew68 wrote:Thanks, I’ll check all the bolts and remove the assembly. A couple dumb questions while I have the assembly off:

1. The front pedestal (front of car) is the larger pedestal with the tab. I have it in the correct location, right? Or does that one go at the back?

2. The shaft is new. Do the oiling holes in the shaft face up, or down?

!. It goes on the front.
2. Not 100% sure but I have been putting them down, makes sense to me.
That drivers rear head bolt is blind and no sealer is needed there and sealer could block a compromised head oil flow notch,milling ,bad casting etc.
It is possible to force the gasket on wrong and it will block flow but you have to try, It has been done before. :?


Thanks. I’m pretty sure I put them facing down. I did use thread sealer on all studs. Should I pull that stud and remove the sealer and reinstall?
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #14 by drag-200stang » Mon Oct 22, 2018 11:01 am

It may help.
You might have to pull the head If you cannot get flow and see what is going on...
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #15 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:06 pm

I checked the previous bolts that were in the pedestals, they all measure exactly the same. 3/8” that taper down to 21/64”. All the same size.

What’s supposed to be the smaller bolt size?
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #16 by frozenrabbit » Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:17 pm

Is the rocker arm shaft assembled right? A head shop put mine back together with the front and rear rocker shaft pedestals switched around, which would have resulted in no oil to the rockers, I caught it before final assembly.

Externally all my pedestals are visually the same on my '65 block, one is internally cut/drilled for oil passage to the rockers, all pedestal bolt are the same on mine.

Only head bolt that should have any sealer on it is the passenger side front, it is the only head bolt that passes into the coolant passage.
Last edited by frozenrabbit on Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #17 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:43 pm

frozenrabbit wrote:Is the rocker arm shaft assembled right? A head shop put mine back together with the front and rear rocker shaft pedestals switched around, which would have resulted in no oil to the rockers, I caught it before final assembly. Externally all my pedestals are visually the same, one is cut for oil passage to the rockers.

Later years have a head bolt on the driver side rear that has an additional taper on the bolt for oil flow.

Only head bolt that should have any sealer on it is the passenger side front, it is the only head bolt that passes into the coolant passages.


I assembled it myself. I have the key/tabbed pedestal in the front (1st cyl), but otherwise I didn't pay any attention to the other rocker pedestals. I checked another set I have, they all look identical when looking from the bottom. How do you tell the difference?
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #18 by frozenrabbit » Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:56 pm

Just looked over my rocker assembly. You referring to key/tabbed pedestal was throwing me off.

The front pedestal has an overflow/return passage that lets oil back out of the rocker shaft. All other pedestals are the same, with a slightly squared off hole.

I'd say the sealant on the driver's side rear head bolt and that oil passage is your issue.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #19 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 1:03 pm

frozenrabbit wrote:Just looked over my rocker assembly. You referring to key/tabbed pedestal was throwing me off.

The front pedestal has an overflow/return passage that lets oil back out of the rocker shaft. All other pedestals are the same, with a slightly squared off hole.

I'd say the sealant on the driver's side rear head bolt and that oil passage is your issue.


Sorry, I didn't know the technical term to it. Ok, it sounds like we're all set. The only thing I'm still confused on is where is this different bolt? Every one of mine (I have two different sets of bolts), are all identical....
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #20 by frozenrabbit » Mon Oct 22, 2018 4:10 pm

All the pedestal bolts are the same size.

Are you referring to the oil passage head bolt? Early sixes head bolts were all the same. Late 60's, maybe early 70's, Ford put a tapered shank bolt in the oil passage. This is the rear driver's side head bolt.

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #21 by drag-200stang » Mon Oct 22, 2018 5:23 pm

Matthew68 wrote:
frozenrabbit wrote:Just looked over my rocker assembly. You referring to key/tabbed pedestal was throwing me off.

The front pedestal has an overflow/return passage that lets oil back out of the rocker shaft. All other pedestals are the same, with a slightly squared off hole.

I'd say the sealant on the driver's side rear head bolt and that oil passage is your issue.


Sorry, I didn't know the technical term to it. Ok, it sounds like we're all set. The only thing I'm still confused on is where is this different bolt? Every one of mine (I have two different sets of bolts), are all identical....

Your bolts are all necked down, you are good to go on that...Some engines came with only one...The front pedestal with the oil deal is to help lube the distributor gear, by way of more oil running down on it...Late engines it was deleted and are all the same...
So if you have play around the lower shaft hole and the bolt and also the pedestal with the bolt (it does not have to be a lot) I think that you are good with the shaft.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #22 by Matthew68 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 6:45 pm

frozenrabbit wrote:All the pedestal bolts are the same size.

Are you referring to the oil passage head bolt? Early sixes head bolts were all the same. Late 60's, maybe early 70's, Ford put a tapered shank bolt in the oil passage. This is the rear driver's side head bolt.


Damn, I’m getting so confused, sorry. Good to know. I used all ARP studs, not bolts.
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #23 by frozenrabbit » Mon Oct 22, 2018 11:02 pm

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Last edited by frozenrabbit on Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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chad
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RA bolts, pedestals, head bolts/studs/other details

Post #24 by chad » Mon Oct 22, 2018 11:23 pm

“…Some engines…”
“…Late engines it was…”
Now, that might B where it matters...
What R the year'n displacement parameters U cite?
I like stock'n accompanying mix'n match but doesn't this guy got the VI alu head?
That makes it outsidea my experience...

4 mine the pedestal bolts R all necked dwn. Did not ck the frnt pedestal 4 oil passage. Cked that lill "kidney shaped" puddle on the block, #11 head bolt'n so-forth...

Havin fun yet? 8^0
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #25 by drag-200stang » Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:39 am

Chad,
The kidney puddle is in the head , and if is not there any more as WSA 111 first said, that could be the problem.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #26 by Matthew68 » Tue Oct 23, 2018 8:26 am

Ok, I just took a look at a pic of the head before I installed it. The kidney bean shape is definitely still there. I bought a pump priming tool, I’ll be running that once it arrives today to see if it just didn’t prime long enough. With an electric drill, how long should I expect to run it before getting oil?

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #27 by drag-200stang » Tue Oct 23, 2018 9:01 am

It is definitely there but little shallow ...In another thread you said it was milled .050, that head has been milled a lot more than .050 and needed work...That said with a .044 gasket it should work but if it got gouped up with sealers maybe not..
I have never timed how long it takes but it seems like forever, and longer if your drill will not produce good pressure ...Being that you are in OHIO it would be good to heat the engine some.
A running engine will flow more than a drill because the turning parts help move the oil through the maze that it has to travel..
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #28 by Matthew68 » Tue Oct 23, 2018 9:19 am

Correct, it was milled .050” to get to 51.5 cc on the combustion chamber to keep compression ratio the same. I’m using the Victor head gasket.

I’ll remove that stud, clean it and replace it. Then I’ll pull the dizzy and try priming it. The other thing I’m wondering is if I used too thick of oil, straight 30. I’m nervous to heat the engine by running it in case there is an oiling problem I don’t want to cause more issues that way.
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #29 by drag-200stang » Tue Oct 23, 2018 9:58 am

Do not run the engine, use an electric heater of some kind blowing on the pan, will take some time...the part about more oil flow when turning was to tell you that there will be more oil flowing when the engine is running ..Of course check when you do start and run it..
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

drag-200stang
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Location: Michigan

Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #30 by drag-200stang » Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:20 am

Just as a caution pull all of the plugs before u start it and crank it over in case the cylinder may have filled with any liquid ...I do this on any head change, new build...Stuff happens.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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No Oil Flowing top end post machinin/reassembly

Post #31 by chad » Tue Oct 23, 2018 11:19 am

U can hear it ("slop, slop, slop") as the drill turns the pump.
Keep goin till U C it 'up top'. This is 1 reason 2 use 'assembly lube'.
It protects during this, the heat (wood stove near here) helps counter that.

I believe U replied affirmatively when queried re: The Handbook. Look for the
highlghted info re: "kidney shaped puddle". Confer w/Matt re: VI alu head.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #32 by 66ranchero » Tue Oct 23, 2018 8:17 pm

NO OIL FLOW TO THE TOP OF MY 1966 RANCHERO W/SIX CYLINDER 200 CID WITH 64k MILES

I bought a 1966 Ranchero W/200CID that had not run since the 1990's when I got it started it, tappets were noisey on and off, I took the valve cover and it was almost all solid with oil sludge and no visual oil flow to the top. in 1971 I bought a 1961 Mercury Comet with a 170 CID with the same problem but not as dirty, in that case I blow air and that unplugged the kidney passage. on this 1966 200 CID that has not work. I disassembled the valve train and unplugged all passages, I blow air in the gully in the rear pedestal, no luck, A took the oil filter and pump oil it flowed to the oil pressure outlet and I could hear the oil gurgling at the valve lifters but that was that. it did not flow up to the top head and valve train. When I crank the engine it registers 45LBS pressure in the oil pressure sensor outlet. I took the oil pan out and clean it and the oil pump strainer ( which was plugged solid)I replace the engine oil with 5-30W. the passage on the head is clean I just can't tell if the passage is plugged on the other side of the oil kidney. all bolts look original and are the same size, all passages on top are clear,

synopsis: ENGINE HAS oil pressure to the oil sensing unit (45Lbs.). I blew air 100 to 150 PSI's still no flow, all top passages are clean, all bolts are original and the same tapered and size, the oil pump's oil strainer is clean. the only thing I have not been able to check is the flow gully from the kidney shape cavity from on top of the block to the mains/cam bearings. any suggestions? :bang:

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chad
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newly machined head, No Oil Flowing top end

Post #33 by chad » Tue Oct 23, 2018 9:55 pm

"...any suggestions?..."
yes - follow along, a sim. issue here.
Hold out'n watch, try not to jack this thread, or start ur own & I will visit (along w/others I'm sure).
Too many folks on 1 thread becomes confusing. Sorry, I'm not usually a nanny,

This is a fresh, 'new' head - USA iron block/Oz 2v head. A lill different I think...
Last edited by chad on Wed Oct 24, 2018 12:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #34 by StarDiero75 » Tue Oct 23, 2018 11:02 pm

One thing you can try is pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill. I believe its a 5/16" hex drive. Spin it for awhile like 10 mins and watch the top end. If no oil comes up, take the rear driver side headbolt off and spin it again. If its getting a lot of oil, it should overflow the bolt area and go up. Id think that'd eliminate the block as a problem if oil comes up. Others will give you some more things to check.
Also try pulling the rear rocker bolt, i believe oil comes up through there too.

Good luck,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #35 by drag-200stang » Wed Oct 24, 2018 9:20 am

66ranchero wrote:NO OIL FLOW TO THE TOP OF MY 1966 RANCHERO W/SIX CYLINDER 200 CID WITH 64k MILES

I bought a 1966 Ranchero W/200CID that had not run since the 1990's when I got it started it, tappets were noisey on and off, I took the valve cover and it was almost all solid with oil sludge and no visual oil flow to the top. in 1971 I bought a 1961 Mercury Comet with a 170 CID with the same problem but not as dirty, in that case I blow air and that unplugged the kidney passage. on this 1966 200 CID that has not work. I disassembled the valve train and unplugged all passages, I blow air in the gully in the rear pedestal, no luck, A took the oil filter and pump oil it flowed to the oil pressure outlet and I could hear the oil gurgling at the valve lifters but that was that. it did not flow up to the top head and valve train. When I crank the engine it registers 45LBS pressure in the oil pressure sensor outlet. I took the oil pan out and clean it and the oil pump strainer ( which was plugged solid)I replace the engine oil with 5-30W. the passage on the head is clean I just can't tell if the passage is plugged on the other side of the oil kidney. all bolts look original and are the same size, all passages on top are clear,

synopsis: ENGINE HAS oil pressure to the oil sensing unit (45Lbs.). I blew air 100 to 150 PSI's still no flow, all top passages are clean, all bolts are original and the same tapered and size, the oil pump's oil strainer is clean. the only thing I have not been able to check is the flow gully from the kidney shape cavity from on top of the block to the mains/cam bearings. any suggestions? :bang:

Welcome to the forum.
Can you put your location in, like mine shows, it helps us help you...as far as the oiling, every thing in this thread applies to your engine...Do you know if it was rebuilt and after did it have flow to the rockers ?..If the cam bearing was not aligned right no flow...Is the head on or off at this time?
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

frozenrabbit
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #36 by frozenrabbit » Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:30 am

66Ranchero, don't jack someone else's thread, this thread is long enough that people are just re-posting the same suggestions because they aren't reading what's already been posted

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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #37 by Matthew68 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 1:13 pm

Success!!!! I bought an oil pump priming tool and used a drill. Took about a minute and twenty seconds but oil is now flowing out of the rocker shaft just in time since my drill was starting to smoke too!
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
Gulfstream Aqua - Interior + Exterior

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wsa111
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #38 by wsa111 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 4:12 pm

Great, light her up.
How does it perform?? Bill
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6al & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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Matthew68
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #39 by Matthew68 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 4:22 pm

wsa111 wrote:Great, light her up.
How does it perform?? Bill


Almost there. Since the old dizzy was pulled, I'm getting ready to install the DUI that you recurved for me. Trying to track down a good timing light and put the header extension pipes on. When I first fired up before checking for oil it was incredibly loud, so anything I can do to help.
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
Gulfstream Aqua - Interior + Exterior

drag-200stang
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Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #40 by drag-200stang » Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:54 pm

Matthew68 wrote:Success!!!! I bought an oil pump priming tool and used a drill. Took about a minute and twenty seconds but oil is now flowing out of the rocker shaft just in time since my drill was starting to smoke too!

Good deal :beer: ..... So did it seem like it took forever to prime ?
I think I got this one,....Where is that pat myself on the back imoge.This will do :nod:
All kidding aside, you did the right thing by being careful.
Check that the timing marks on the dampener has not slipped on the rubber.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Matthew68
Registered User
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2017 11:45 am

Re: Rebuilt Head, No Oil Flowing

Post #41 by Matthew68 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 7:05 pm

drag-200stang wrote:
Matthew68 wrote:Success!!!! I bought an oil pump priming tool and used a drill. Took about a minute and twenty seconds but oil is now flowing out of the rocker shaft just in time since my drill was starting to smoke too!

Good deal :beer: ..... So did it seem like it took forever to prime ?
I think I got this one,....Where is that pat myself on the back imoge.This will do :nod:
All kidding aside, you did the right thing by being careful.
Check that the timing marks on the dampener has not slipped on the rubber.



Strong work lol. I timed it using a stopwatch, one minute twenty seconds until I saw my first drips near the rear rocker stand. My electric drill started smoking bad so I switched over to my cordless until I confirmed oil made it all the way to the front of the assembly before I shut it off. Thanks for the suggestions! This is my first rebuild, so I was nervous to do everything! Especially without anyone else near me to help.

Thanks gents!
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
Gulfstream Aqua - Interior + Exterior

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