Assess the health of my 200

Georgia200

Well-known member
Yesterday I traded a 97 Cobra for a 67 coupe. 200/C4 3.20 power brakes standard black interior not sure on the color, the data plate looks original and is stamped W8. That doesnt make sense. It looks to be either yellow or white, again Im not sure. Interior is new, paint is 10 footer.

It runs horrible. Its a C6 block with a C9DE 6090 M head. It looks to have a new SCV carb and a 68+ dizzy. I pulled the plugs, they are dark, the threads had oil on them, but the end of the plugs were dry. When I start it I get a big dark streak out of the exhaust pipe on the ground. Tomorrow Im doing a compression test.

Our plan is a nice driver, limited highway use, mostly a go to dinner and cruise around town car.

I would like to keep the 200, I like them. One of my favorite cars ever was a 71 Maverick Grabber 200/3 spd. Other than adding ac one day and upgrading the brakes we plan on just maintaining it and leaving it pretty much as is.
 
Well one thing I see right now is that you need is to change or mod the carb from the SCV so it will match up correctly with the better Distribitor you have. Looks like a nice 67 Mustang, good luck (y) :nod:
 
There is a tech article on how to do the SCV delete on the forum.
If you are not sure i can do it for $50.00 + parts + shipping.
As of now do not hook up the vacuum advance cause the SCV carb will apply vacuum @ full throttle the the distributor causing too much advance. Bill
 
I'd get a later year carb, even if you modify that Autolite 1100 to delete the SVC, you can get a better carb for a '67 200.

I think that is more of a '60-'64 144-170 carb. Lower CFM and smaller jetting. That's an early '60's Autolite 1100, because of the brass tube going from the throat to the bowl, later 1100's have that tube as part of the aluminum casting. Also had Holley 1904s, but they flow even less than a 1100.

A '65 200 I have had a Holley 1940 on it, and a '72 250 had a Carter RBS on it. My 65 is gettting the Carter RBS, larger valves installed and a mild cam, and my 250 is getting 3 glass bowl Holley 1904s.

Oily plugs and smoke out the back sounds like worn valve guides and deteriorated valve stem seals.
 
Hi, do the compression test and post the numbers.
At least try the distributor vacuum on direct manifold vacuum. It can't be any worse.
Also try advancing the timing. The engine will probably like that unless it pings and knocks.
Get the Ford Falcon performance handbook to get the most out of your Ford 6.
Go over the brakes and safety stuff first.
Good luck
 
Compression is 135 - 130 - 130 - 120 - 142 - 145

I tried to adjust the 1100 but ran into a problem.

I was unable to properly adjust the accelerator pump. The lever is up against the chrome valve cover and there is no room for adjustment. Because of that, I have the dashpot screw all the way in and it barely touches the diaphragm. I have the idle adjust screw completely backed off and the idle is still to high.

I couldnt find my timing light, so I have no idea what that is set at. We moved a few months ago and it might have ended up at one of the kids houses.

The PO is giving me the original valve cover so I will compare it with the chrome one.
 
Howdy Back Georgia:

And Welcome to the Forum, if i hadn't said welcome before.

As other have already posted, your engine has a mismatch between the '68 distributor and the SCV carb. SCV- Spark Control Valve. The SCV in the carb sends a load sensitive vacuum signal to the early distributor. FoMoCo started the change process in 1968 when they introduced your more modern distributor with both a traditional vacuum advance as well as centrifugal advance. When they did, they removed the SCV function from the Autolite 1100 carb as well as down sized its CFM rating to 150 CFM. The earlier 200 Autolite 1100, from 1964 to 1967 were rated at 185. Some folks with '68 & '69 200s swapped back to the earlier 1100 thinking they would gain power with the larger carb, not realizing the carb to distributor mismatch.

So, begin by IDing which SCV carb you have. There should be a stamped ID code on the mounting flange of the carb. Share that code with us to determine what year carb you have.

The early SCV carbs can be modified like Bill suggested or you can begin searching for an Autolite 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 six. They are rated at 210 cfm. they will require a slight modification to bolt on to your engine for a boost in power.

The Holley 1940 is a service replacement carb that FoMoCo started using after the demise of Autolite Corp. It is a poor replacement. I could not recommend it.

Nice sting Georgia. Keep the info coming.

Adios, David
 
The timing may be way off if it's idling too high with the idle screw all the way out and the vac advance disconnected & plugged. I'd start looking for a good 1101 carb/core.
 
I have the C9DE 6090 M head which is a pretty good one. Im planning on reworking this head or a later big valve head. i Have a few parts I have collected over the years, a 2100 core, 144 intake valves, adjustable rockers and pushrods, DSII, dual outlet header, 302 springs and a set of 4.0 retainers. All of this was going on my 65, but a 67 was the car I really wanted so about 3 years ago I sold the 65 and kept the parts, thinking I would find another 200 one day.

For now I would like to get this car running better since the fall weather is nice to drive around in a vintage Mustang with no ac.

Tomorrow I will pull the carb and see if I can adjust the accelerator pump with the carb off the car, there may be some wiggle room in the mounting holes on the carb.

The copper hot air tube is bent and crimped to hell, so I will replace that as well

I have never had a hot air choke, I always use a manual, so I need to figure out how that works.
 
Howdy Back:

THe dash pot on the inside (valve cover side) is a dampert for the auto trans engines to slow deceleration. It was an early EPA crutch. The accelerator pump is on the other side, (Outside) and is adjustible by selecting the appropriate hole.

IIWIYS, I'd try adjusting the carb after disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose. So long as you have the mismatch between the SVC on the carb and the '68 distributor your tuning efforts will be frustrating. Sorry. The first thing is to ID the Autolite 1100 you currently have.

I like the sound of your parts bin. Any thoughts on what cam you plan for the future? Compression ratio goal?

Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Nice Mustang. Good trade as it looks pretty clean in the pic.
 
My wife will drive this car as well. My goal is a solid driver, mostly in town and country roads, limited highway use. The C4 is a recent rebuild so Im keeping it.

I want a smooth idle, we will add ac at some point. I would like a CR of 8.7- 9.0:1. Decent power, good on pump gas.

If I could find a 250, I would build that over the winter since we want ac and the extra cubes help.

I have no desire to make this car as fast as I can. We have a 17 ecoboost thats plenty fast and a 2.0T Fusion that at 240hp will run circles around most vintage iron.

I enjoy these for what they are.
 
250ci for sale here, basicly a core, will hand turn...
 
Howdy Back:

Your compression numbers look pretty good. You might want to hook up a vacuum gauge to see if you have any valve leak problems. A burned valve on #4 could account for the lower pressure on it. How many miles on this engine? Is the '69 "M" head already on it? If not be sure to mill it to get back to a 9:1 CR.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
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