Need a Carb

Greg called back as promised and told me to order p/n 7-7276 from Advance.

What I should get in the mail is a Autolite 1101 with 1.75 bore and a hot air choke. About $190 to my door after I send in a core.

The parts stores will not show this carb if you look by application, plug in the number and it works.

I shopped around and they are all about the same price.
 
Georgia200":23d3u53e said:
67 200/C4

My 1100 SCV doesnt match my non LOM dizzy.

I was working on figuring out the high idle problem Im having and tripped and broke the hot air choke off.

I think I will just buy a new carb since I was going to anyway.

I have a C6 block that needs to be freshened up and a C9 head with 1.75 carb opening. My current 1100 is a 1.5.

I plan on keeping this head and installing 144 intake valves for the exhaust, keep my 1.649 intake valves and mill and deck for a 8.8-9.0 compression ratio. Mild cam with a smooth idle, DSII, adjustable rockers. I will add ac in the near future.

What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.

Sounds like a good plan when you do the head you might also consider opening up the 1 3/4 carb base hole to 2 inch and rolling the inside radius in the direction of the logs lenght for a bit better performance. X2 on also back cutting the valves. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Bubba, I see you are from Flagstaff. Wife almost took a job there at NAU, but the 9ft of snow scared her. We like to live between I-10 and I-20. Ive lived in Tucson 3x, love it there.

My goal is to get on the road, then worry about upgrades.

I change projects like I change my socks, but a 67 is the one I have always wanted, so its a keeper.

Ive got my eye on a couple engines to rebuild. One is a 200 out of a 80 Mustang. The other is one I have only seen a pic of, all I can say is it has a low mount starter.

My engine is not original, my build date is 31 July 67, the engine is 30 Mar 66.
 
The 67 & 68 Mustangs are nice cars a real big faveriote of mine as over the years I have had the pleasure of owning 6 or 7 Coupe's, two Fastback's plus also a 67 Cougar, this was back in the 1970's to 1990's when they weren't so expensive. I am with you they are keepers if only I had hung onto one of mine, as currently their prices are out of reach in this area. With their larger engine compartment besides the 200's you could easyly fit a 250, or even one of the 300 Big Ford Six's if you wanted. On cars this old it's tough to still find one that's has its orginal engine though if you wanted it to go back to original then looking for the right casting numbers and date codes on the block head and exhaust manifold is still possible. These would be date coded around two weeks to month before your cars assembly date.

I have only been in Flagstaff 5 years now but haven't seen anything like 9' of snow. Most of the time we get 1 to 6 inchs at a time and offen it melts right away in a few days a bigger storm might give us 12 to 18 inches. The most we had from one storm was 39 inches that took a few hours to clean off the driveway the worse part was out at the street were the snow plows piled it up another couple feet. I have always been impressed how well the city takes care of clearing the streets. Good luck on your Mustang build. (y) :nod:
 
1101 showed up today. It looks good although I didnt have time to do much more than unwrap it and have a quick looksee.

Questions:

This is a 69 head with a 69 1101. Am I missing a spacer or riser?

I stopped by Summit and bought some gasket material, valve cover gaskets and a Jeep 2.5L carb spacer. The bolt holes are 2 15/16 so I need to slightly elongate them, but it fits nicely. Do I need it? I dont need the vacuum ports, but they may come in handy one day.

What is the throttle arm called that snaps onto the carb. If I use the spacer I will need a longer or an adjustable one.

The chrome valve cover has to go, it interferes with the carb. I have the original.
 
we need a lill spacer to avoid the exh heat right there'n align/mount (the flange bolts, the throttle/gas peddle linkage). Some need a lill flair w/a 1/2 round file to match carb boar/intake opening. Some have a water choke there (not ur yr, earlier) & it's a nice place to have manifold vacuum (I see them in ur pics).

Many of us use Matt at vintage inlines dot com as he's a member here, caters to these engines & has taken up where the founder of this site & the well known Classic Inlines, AZ co. left off (Mike W died a yr or so ago). He's got different adaptor options 4 these. Also there's a pic on his site of a proper mill/build up for the 'direct mount' (U can skip the whole thing & increase performance) ur 'M' head is so good 4. Also seen on the tech archive above & in the book David (author w/his bro) has a link to in his above post 4 dis thread.
 
:unsure: do you have that spacer shown in the above second picture? It's the one you need to use to work with your stock throdle linkage. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Bubba, that is my engine in the second pic.

Is that the only spacer I should have?

There is room for the 3/4in spacer in the first pic and still use my air cleaner. Seems like I should get the carb as far from the exhaust manifold as possible.
 
Georgia200":1kn37lf4 said:
Bubba, that is my engine in the second pic.

Is that the only spacer I should have?

There is room for the 3/4in spacer in the first pic and still use my air cleaner. Seems like I should get the carb as far from the exhaust manifold as possible.

Great yes that's the spacer you should have. If you have room for the extra spacer it won't hurt to use it. What I used to use is the thickest carb base gasket I could find these were used on the mid to late 1970's engines. Some of the other site members have made plastic type spacers to insulate the carb too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
some even wood, corrian, cutting boards, 2 milled up their own phenolic.
U may use the search function & come up w/their threads which have pic.
 
I swapped valve covers this morning.

The PO ws kind enough to give me the oem valve cover. It had a bunch of paint, is rusted, pitted and looks like ass.

I striped, sanded, used naval jelly, muriatic acid, wire brushed ect... and got about 95% of the rust off. Finally hit it with primer to hold off the rust and bolted it on.

Carb now clears the valve cover and I was able to get it running. I need to figure out the fast idle. I hooked up a vacuum gauge and had a steady 20in of vacuum, so thats all good.

Some pics of my valve train. Surprisingly, it has adjustable rockers.Between these and the spare set I have I should be able to put a decent set together.

Note the super rare hose clamp option.
 
Is that a crack in the rocker assembly in the 2nd pic?
You lucky dog, i wish i had that rare option :rolflmao:
I brought mine back to life in 2 days in similar shape but it didnt have anything funny like that.

If you need another rocker assembly i have one that needs some love I'd sell.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
"... need another rocker assembly..."
pedestal is enuff.
Gotta have some somewhere in the membership...
 
I have a spare assembly.

Today I will pull the shaft off the car, replace the damaged parts, reinstall, warm the engine up and attempt to adjust the valves.

On another note with the carb:

The carb I ordered was for a 1969 250 with AT.

The carb I received is for a MT. It should have had an accelerator pump and dashpot. It doesnt have the dashpot.

Do I need the dashpot? Should I return the carb again and ask for the correct one? This carb business is a PITA.
 
"...Should I return the carb again and ask for the correct one?..."
It will help when U 'take yer foot offa it'. (to maintain RPMs)

Back in the day the mechanics called em the "Pull Off" & that's what they did w/em (removed).
 
HowdyBackGeorgia:

The dash pot helps to keep the engine running on a traffic stop. The dash pot slows engine deceleration. Since the car is for your wife to drive you may not want the engine dying in traffic stops for her. So Yes, try for the AT carb.

You could get by by having the curb ilde set a little higher than normal.

Good luck.

Adios, David
 
Back
Top