Offy tri-power stalls when in gear

bubba22349":2lcv1fnf said:
The ball I think is 1/8 or 3/16 inch it will seal in the tapered hole in the bottom, the ball goes in first then the weight is on top of it. If the ball is missing then that is probally why the pump shot isn't good. Yes the ball is easily lost and also sometimes wrongly left out during a rebuild. On the main well tube if you can gently try to straighten it again examine it for cracks between the holes. If you have a tube that will slide over it may help in the straitening in any case they are quite soft and easily damaged so be real carful or else you can also just leave it alone. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited with adistional info four times last was on Sunday 12:05 PM

How are you doing on the carb?

Holley / Autolite 1940 Carb Manual
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/ ... manual.pdf

In above manual you will find all the basic settings for float level, choke set up, and testing the fuel pump discharge. If you find that the fuel pump discharge test doesn't work as it should, you may have to stake the ball lightly into the carb base. After that you would need use another new ball to replace the one you hammer on fairly sure that these were a 1/8 inch SS ball.

Later on you need to check your total timing and you will need to make some extra timing marks on your Dampener or timing cover at 30 to 45 degrees in about 2 degree increments. You can use a machinists 6 inch steel rule to measure from you existing timing Marks or you can use some timing tape. The "Total Timing sweet spot" will probally be somewhere around the 32 to 36 degree range. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Question on total timing. I assume there is a specific rpm range I'm looking to be in at that advance. According to the info I found from Mallory, if the dizzy has the stock springs and stop bushing, It should advance 21 degrees @ 4000rpm. That should give me 33 degrees @ 4000 - correct?
 
Anther way you can check your timing is to get a timing light with a variable delay control. You just use the zero mark on the damper and read out your advance on a digital display.
 
thegreyghost":1y9zsr8z said:
bubba22349":1y9zsr8z said:
Later on you need to check your total timing and you will need to make some extra timing marks on your Dampener or timing cover at 30 to 45 degrees in about 2 degree increments. You can use a machinists 6 inch steel rule to measure from you existing timing Marks or you can use some timing tape. The "Total Timing sweet spot" will probally be somewhere around the 32 to 36 degree range. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Question on total timing. I assume there is a specific rpm range I'm looking to be in at that advance. According to the info I found from Mallory, if the dizzy has the stock springs and stop bushing, It should advance 21 degrees @ 4000rpm. That should give me 33 degrees @ 4000 - correct?
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct. (y) :nod:
 
Gene 64 2dr":wmds1ikw said:
Anther way you can check your timing is to get a timing light with a variable delay control. You just use the zero mark on the damper and read out your advance on a digital display.
Click to expand...

I just ordered one of those. Always looking for an excuse to buy new tools! Merry christmas to me!

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easier as long as my mark is good. So far it seems to be holding.
 
Well fixed the carbs, but not as great of a result as I would have hoped. Definitely more responsive, and the sputtering and surging are gone, but nowhere close to where I think it should be.

I think I need to restart the whole procedure. I'm back to around 1200 idle with no way to lower it and according to my new timing light / dwell meter I'm at 45 degrees dwell. Heathkit still shows me around 34. I think 45 makes more sense to me since I have the point gap around 0.015" right now.

Might get some more time tomorrow to poke around.
 
thegreyghost":t8xh4rhn said:
Well fixed the carbs, but not as great of a result as I would have hoped. Definitely more responsive, and the sputtering and surging are gone, but nowhere close to where I think it should be.

I think I need to restart the whole procedure. I'm back to around 1200 idle with no way to lower it and according to my new timing light / dwell meter I'm at 45 degrees dwell. Heathkit still shows me around 34. I think 45 makes more sense to me since I have the point gap around 0.015" right now.

Might get some more time tomorrow to poke around.
Click to expand...

:beer: congrats on getting the carb's to work better little by little it's coming along to a better tune up! You need to open the point gap up some, I think you will be at about .024 to .025 point gap to get you to the goal of a 35 to 37 degree dwell range. Remember that you need the dwell right before you set your base timing. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":1mdz5bj4 said:
thegreyghost":1mdz5bj4 said:
Well fixed the carbs, but not as great of a result as I would have hoped. Definitely more responsive, and the sputtering and surging are gone, but nowhere close to where I think it should be.

I think I need to restart the whole procedure. I'm back to around 1200 idle with no way to lower it and according to my new timing light / dwell meter I'm at 45 degrees dwell. Heathkit still shows me around 34. I think 45 makes more sense to me since I have the point gap around 0.015" right now.

Might get some more time tomorrow to poke around.
Click to expand...

:beer: congrats on getting the carb's to work better little by little it's coming along to a better tune up! You need to open the point gap up some, I think you will be at about .024 to .025 point gap to get you to the goal of a 35 to 37 degree dwell range. Remember that you need the dwell right before you set your base timing. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...


Only had a couple minutes today to work on this. Discovered the linkage is binding a little, and the rear carb is letting a lot air in even with the throttle blade closed.
Came close on the points - 39 combined dwell at 800 rpms.

On a positive note, driving with just the middle carb hooked up to the linkage, it responded pretty well to the throttle.

Carb work coming up!!!
 
thegreyghost":1la1q4m9 said:
bubba22349":1la1q4m9 said:
thegreyghost":1la1q4m9 said:
Well fixed the carbs, but not as great of a result as I would have hoped. Definitely more responsive, and the sputtering and surging are gone, but nowhere close to where I think it should be.

I think I need to restart the whole procedure. I'm back to around 1200 idle with no way to lower it and according to my new timing light / dwell meter I'm at 45 degrees dwell. Heathkit still shows me around 34. I think 45 makes more sense to me since I have the point gap around 0.015" right now.

Might get some more time tomorrow to poke around.
Click to expand...

:beer: congrats on getting the carb's to work better little by little it's coming along to a better tune up! You need to open the point gap up some, I think you will be at about .024 to .025 point gap to get you to the goal of a 35 to 37 degree dwell range. Remember that you need the dwell right before you set your base timing. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...


Only had a couple minutes today to work on this. Discovered the linkage is binding a little, and the rear carb is letting a lot air in even with the throttle blade closed.
Came close on the points - 39 combined dwell at 800 rpms.

On a positive note, driving with just the middle carb hooked up to the linkage, it responded pretty well to the throttle.

Carb work coming up!!!
Click to expand...



O.K. Got the rear carb much better. Throttle plate was pretty bad.
ldBu4bRl.jpg

Fixed the point gap and dwell = steady at 34 combined @ 0.028" each.
Timing is right around 12 degrees.

Center carb next work. Linkage is sticking and closing all the way.

I am starting to get much better control over the idle.[/quote]

So for total timing I'm looking at about 33 degrees @ 3000 rpm.

Weird thing is that when first accelerating the timing moves the opposite direction in reference to the mark on the engine about an 1" then suddenly snaps back the other direction and continues to advance until about 3000 rpms - ?? :unsure::[/quote]
O.K. Got the rear carb much better. Throttle plate was pretty bad.
ldBu4bRl.jpg

Fixed the point gap and dwell = steady at 34 combined @ 0.028" each.
Timing is right around 12 degrees.

Center carb next work. Linkage is sticking and closing all the way.

I am starting to get much better control over the idle.[/quote]

So for total timing I'm looking at about 33 degrees @ 3000 rpm.

Weird thing is that when first accelerating the timing moves the opposite direction in reference to the mark on the engine about an 1" then suddenly snaps back the other direction and continues to advance until about 3000 rpms - ?? :unsure::[/quote]
 
:beer: That's excellent news on your progress! Happy New Years and keep up the good job. (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":i3wrxir8 said:
:beer: That's excellent news on your progress! Happy New Years and keep up the good job. (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Weird thing is that when first accelerating the timing moves the opposite direction in reference to the mark on the engine about an 1" then suddenly snaps back the other direction and continues to advance until about 3000 rpms - ??


It's a little tough to see in the video, but if you focus on the timing mark and ignore the sound you can see it move in two different directions.

https://vimeo.com/308925335
 
Since I had some extra time today I've been curious about the valve train. There's some noise coming from somewhere - not sure exactly where but it sounds like banging. This is what I found when I pulled the valve cover.

Looks like it may have been peened for clearance ???





Not sure what to make of it.
 
My guess that's caused by the advance weights sticking a little inside the Distributor, though won't be certain of that until you can get curb idle more under control. Depending on the advance curve that was set up inside dis, Ie at a higher RPM it will have more advance and then when the engine idle stalls down some dropping the RPM the advance is going to go back to less or none. Only way to know is to see the advance cruve specs. On the valve cover yes look like some interference maybe you could stack an extra valve cover gasket or two. Many people really crank down on the valve cover bolts distorting the flange and crushing the gasket, they shouldn't have all that much torque on them only about 2 to 4 ft lb in their case less is more. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
remember, there were no OEM adjustable rockers after @ '66 so the VC's were not meant to clear the adjusters. I have to 'form' or remove baffles from later VC's with adjustables.

hae fun

 
Hi, I have to wonder if the glitch in the mechanical advance and the varying dwell are due to an issue with the breaker plate.
I would check the bushings and whatever is mounting the plate to the body.
Good luck
 
B RON CO":387qrik6 said:
Hi, I have to wonder if the glitch in the mechanical advance and the varying dwell are due to an issue with the breaker plate.
I would check the bushings and whatever is mounting the plate to the body.
Good luck
Click to expand...

I did check for play in this earlier and was unable to find anything.

***Any chance what I'm seeing is timing chain slop ?****

Curb idle is 95% fixed. I the linkage on one carb hanging up just a tiny bit yet.
 
Could it be that the vacuum advance is retarding when you give it throttle like it is supposed to and the mechanical has not gotten up to speed yet at first ?
 
drag-200stang":2nixgib4 said:
Could it be that the vacuum advance is retarding when you give it throttle like it is supposed to and the mechanical has not gotten up to speed yet at first ?
Click to expand...

No vacuum advance on the dizzy - mechanical only, but thanks for the suggestion.
 
thegreyghost":sd88h7dk said:
drag-200stang":sd88h7dk said:
Could it be that the vacuum advance is retarding when you give it throttle like it is supposed to and the mechanical has not gotten up to speed yet at first ?
Click to expand...

No vacuum advance on the dizzy - mechanical only, but thanks for the suggestion.
Click to expand...
Yes you said that in your first post :oops:
 
thegreyghost":3evudmgy said:
B RON CO":3evudmgy said:
Hi, I have to wonder if the glitch in the mechanical advance and the varying dwell are due to an issue with the breaker plate.
I would check the bushings and whatever is mounting the plate to the body.
Good luck
Click to expand...

I did check for play in this earlier and was unable to find anything.

***Any chance what I'm seeing is timing chain slop ?****

Curb idle is 95% fixed. I the linkage on one carb hanging up just a tiny bit yet.
Click to expand...

You won't likely see a sloppy timing chain with the timing light, but maybe if it's really bad. You can test for bad timing though by hand turning the crankshaft to the TDC mark then take off the distribtor cap and mark the position of the rotor, start turning the crank the opposite direction until the rotor starts to move. The differerance of how much the rotor moves compared to the Crankshaft is how much slop there is in the timing chain. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited for more clarity.
 
:eek:opsie: I had to edit my above post because I left out a major part of the testing info. I guess was maybe a bit sleep deprived. :rolflmao: Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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