Offy tri-power stalls when in gear

In Drive wheels blocked and only for a max of 5 seconds or less, then idle the car for a few min. to let the Trans and convertor to cool back down before shuting it off. The goal is to see the rpm that the convertor flashes too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":vnzju0ol said:
In Drive wheels blocked and only for a max of 5 seconds or less, then idle the car for a few min. to let the Trans and convertor to cool back down before shuting it off. The goal is to see the rpm that the convertor flashes too. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Yep. Got it. I'll check back in with results - probably Tuesday.

Once again, Thank you to everyone for the support and help.
 
thegreyghost":9z9ldqlm said:
bubba22349":9z9ldqlm said:
In Drive wheels blocked and only for a max of 5 seconds or less, then idle the car for a few min. to let the Trans and convertor to cool back down before shuting it off. The goal is see the rpm that the convertor flashes too. Good luck (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Yep. Got it. I'll check back in with results - probably Tuesday.

Once again, Thank you to everyone for the support and help.
Click to expand...

Results are in....Looks like 1500 rpm stall. Sounded good.

https://vimeo.com/310212459
 
Ok great job! You have now confirmed that you have the stock stall speed torque convertor, this is not a good match with most Performace cams (it's too tight) even though you have a 3:50 rear gear. A 2100 to 2300 stall performance built T. C. would be much better for your hi performance street build. You also confirmed that you have a stock 1966 Duel Range C4. If you wanted to keep that stock valve body then the TransGo shift kit that fits it is still available and improves the shifting problems of the stock Duel Range C4's. This Trans Kit is TranSGo kit # 45-1, ie P R N D2 D1 1, and remember that if the shifter is one click after N neutral ths is the D2 position and it's starting out in 2nd gear instead of 1. Or do the 1967 to 1969 Select Shift C 4 valve body swap which gives even better performance. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
bubba22349":39arc9yf said:
Thegreyghost, have you done any more work on your Mustang? (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

I must have been hibernating! :LOL: Never received any notification of a new post, and haven't been online with anything in quite a while.

Winter actually arrived where I'm at and I live in a "no winter maintenance" area of the forest. I moved the car from one bay of the garage to the other since we last spoke.

I'm waiting for the weather to break so I can drive off the mountain and see what the upper end of the rpm range is like. Not much more I can do right now except for maybe trying to degree the cam, but I thought I'd wait and see how it actually performs on the road first.

Thanks for the wellness check! :D
 
no heat in garage makes it tough.

We do fine now I put the stove in. In the last few yrs I've made some changes such that the
cord wood use has been cut in half (the Puerto Rican owner is learnin the technology). :LOL:
 
chad":8n284xb0 said:
no heat in garage makes it tough.

We do fine now I put the stove in. In the last few yrs I've made some changes such that the
cord wood use has been cut in half (the Puerto Rican owner is learnin the technology). :LOL:
Click to expand...

I insulated this year , next year is the furnace and ductwork. Amazing the difference. Couple minutes with the torpedo going and you're taking your jacket off.
 
"...torpedo..."
B careful mah braw, O. starvation, no?...
the Bronk pulls in all da cord wood we need, free
:eek:
 
chad":10eag6mj said:
"...torpedo..."
B careful mah braw, O. starvation, no?...
the Bronk pulls in all da cord wood we need, free
:eek:
Click to expand...

Yep.
CO poisoning is possible anytime you're burning any fossil fuel - including wood. Good chimney and a CO alarm are a must!
 
no, I meant it just burns up the air U breath (but, yes
converts it into CO2 as well). Stove hasa chimney. Sounds
like ur goin uptown w/an official appliance tho. Not only
safer but less labor intensive! Lucky U.
 
bubba22349":23hag28j said:
Thegreyghost, have you done any more work on your Mustang? (y) :nod:
Click to expand...

Well I managed to get the car out for an actual spin down the road today. Not very far, maybe a mile. Something definitely strange with the transmission hunting a little between gears. Honestly, with the sloppiness of the B&M shifter and the kickdown linkage, I'm not sure which valve body is even in this C4 at this point. With the leaky seals and all, I'm pretty sure it's coming out at this point anyway, so I'll find out.

Engine performance was a little lacking. It seemed better at the higher rpm's, but it was a waiting game to get it there. On top of that, when i got home it puked antifreeze out the overflow. It only has the original gauge, so I don't really know how hot it was.

All in all not terrible. No engine misses,sputtering, or stalling, just slow acceleration. Top end seemed better than low - no tach on board, so not sure exactly where i was at.

baby steps......
 
Well I took the car for it's final cruise a couple weeks ago before stripping it down and getting it ready for paint. The engine ran very well. No misses, no sputtering, no coughing or stalling. The transmission on the other hand just seemed sluggish and always in the wrong gear. Once I removed it from the vehicle I found metal flakes and sludge in what was supposed to have been a rebuilt C4 - and it did have the original 66 crusimatic valve body.

I liked the novelty of the I6 and the uniqueness of it all, but I just don't think it's my thing. I really doubt I'll be putting it back into the car and definitely not the C4.

I wanted to thank everyone here that helped me with this. The wealth of information that I got in such a short period of time was invaluable. Thank you everyone.
 
"...wealth of information that I got in such a short period of time was invaluable. Thank you everyone...."
as penance for i6 removal I sentence U to 2 mo of listing on our For Sale of the engine and transmish !!!
B4ability fo list elsewhere.

(Meanwhile we agree to find a '69 Boss 429 with '71 wedge heads CJ/Super CJ for ya - to be delivered Sept 1)
 
I'm good with both of those suggestions.

I managed to get a Mexican 302 block to start on. At the machine shop now. Nothing radical. Shooting for around 300hp.

Judging by your sig you might be more interested in my 83 cj7 with a fulie 6cyl, Novak adapters and T18 transmission - but that's not for sale.
 
good, U get it, no offense then 8^0
yeah, I like dat motor !
U might guess - as a bronk owner, I'd B more into the CJ8 (only 1 ta
have in my mind). LOL

Enjoy the next build - and really - C if any1 on here wants it?
I only reviewed 36 posts but it seems to B a 200ci...no?
 
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