62 Comet update

Chapa71

Active member
A little update:

Got the Pertronix I installed with new coil and ran a wire from ignition switch to coil (12v)
Started right up

BUT.....
Then I loosened the Dizzy to try and get the timing dailed in (probably too much)
cause when I turned the Dizzy the damn cap popped off and cracked while the engine was running :shock:
I went and got another cap and put it on, then the carb started puffing gas every time I tried to start it.
So I go look and the rotor seems damaged (stripped on the inside so it must be rotating freely in there)
I ordered a new Rotor and will get that today.
I am hoping it is just that.

For a second there I thought maybe the Dizzy spun itself out of time when the cap cracked
I will see what the rotor does for me

I may have to re-position the Dizzy if the Rotor doesn't fix it.

I am hoping to find Bubbas thread on installing and tuning

Also I found an Autolite 1100 on ebay for pretty cheap
I should get that by the end of the week
I will check condition and maybe attempt my first carb rebuild

It has been a joy to get back working on old cars again

I moved to Atlanta from California 4 years ago and left the cars and trucks there

Will keep you guys posted
 
Oh and the Autolite 1100 has the SCV so I am assuming it is earlier version with the higher cfm
I was told it was off a 200 motor (but its ebay)

I also purchased the shoulder/lap belts
I will install those next after I get this engine running right

Steps after that will be:
Shocks all around
Inspecting the entire suspension system (ball joints ect..)
Then I will teach my daughter how to fix dents and minor body repair :D

But I am sure other things will creep in ha ha!
 
If your engine is still orginal and stock the Distribitor and Carberator should be matched to each other they were a LOM (Load O Matic) type system (see below for more info). Some pictures of the engine, carb, and Distribitor would be of help IDing all those parts. Having a mismatched carb and Distribitor can cause drivability problems too.

All about how the LOM distribitor works.
ci/Loadomatic.html

Stock 1961 to 1963 Ford Falcon / Comet with 170 six with Standard 3 speed transmission or a / 2 speed Ford / Merc O Matic Auto Trans tune up specs. I couldn't find the info on your cars transmission in any of your posts so the specs so included both settings.

Distribitor rotates CW firing order is 153624
Autolite BF-82 plugs gaped at .034.
Valve lash setting is .016 hot for both intake and exhaust valves.
Basic Points setting gaped at .025 for best performance your looking for a Dwell setting of 39 Degrees.
Base timing is set to 4 Degrees BTDC for a Standard ( Stick) trans and 10 Degrees BTDC for a Automatic trans.
Idle RPM is 600 RPM for a Standard Trans and 525 RPM with an Auto Trans in Drive, parking brake set, AC if you have that is off
Fuel pressure is 4.5 PSI

To get most accurate tune up I always use of a tach / dwell meter especially if your Distribitor is still using the stock type points, and also a timing light. This is the procedure I have found works the best and quickly for me. Customized settings for your Pertronix.

A good tune up follows this order of work.
1. Set the plug gap to .045 with a Pertronix ignition.
2. Set the points basic setting to .025 after its running set the Dwell Angel to factory spec of 39 degrees. This step is not needed with the Pertronix system. Skip this setting with the Pertronix
3. Now you need to set the timing to 12 degrees base timing vacuum line disconnected and plugged. You can also try more base timing to as much as 16 degrees but it if there is any hint of pinging when you try it then back off until it stops. Reinstall the vaccum line to the Distribitor.
4. With the engine warmed up good, set the valve lash to .016 on intakes and exhaust valves.
5. With engine warmed up good, Set the Idle mixture to its Lean Best Idle. ie set to highest idle RPM then turn the mixture screw in 1/4 turn to lean it.
6. Set the curb idle speed to 575 to 600 RPM if stand. Trans. Set idle RPM's to 500 to 525 RPM with an Auto trans in drive parking brake set, wheels chocked with block of wood, or you can have your daughter set on and hold the brake.
7. Repeat 5. & 6. To see if it improves anymore. When properly tuned these engines (warmed up) will restart without even touching the gas pedel.

You might also test your coils output with the volt / ohm meter as well as the plug wires and cap for their resistance readings that they are within spec.

Additionally while doing the tune up settings to the carb mixture and idle the engine needs everything hooked up just as it will be operated! This includes having the Air Cleaner with a clean air filter installed and the PCV hooked up if your engine has one. If you want to use a Vacuum gauge then hook that up to the Intake Log below the Carb you would be looking for about 17 inches of vacuum at idle RPM . By the way after living almost my entire like in Calif. I moved out 5 years ago to Az. All my old cars and trucks plus years of parts got left behind too. Good luck in your tuning (y) :nod: Edited and will correct with more info as needed.
 
Bubba,

Thank you for the information

As far as the Engine its a 170 original from what I can tell
and I have the Load o Matic Dizzy along with a Holley 1909 with SCV on the car at the moment

The Autolite I am talking about is one that I have ordered and will attempt to put in at a later time

let me try and get some pics posted later this afternnon

Thanks
 
Yes the T code on the road tube boss indicates a 170 engine, and appears to have a LOM system and the correct parts. On engine colors yes the blue paint isn't original for a 1962 Mercury car but sadly its quite common during a rebuild. Many people don't realize that the earlier Ford and Mercury engines weren't painted completely in the " long familiar Ford Blue" and that is in the years before the debut of the 1966 Fords / Merc's and later year models. These early Ford / Merc engines had their own unique colors on the valve covers and air cleaners that also helped to quickly I'd the engine size too. This below link is a to a post I started last year about these original engine paint colors, it might be of some interest to you. Good luck on your Comet. (y) :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77044&p=592955&hilit=Engine+colors#p592955
 
Chapa71":378rfvgs said:
A little update:

Got the Pertronix I installed with new coil and ran a wire from ignition switch to coil (12v)
Started right up

BUT.....
Then I loosened the Dizzy to try and get the timing dailed in (probably too much)
cause when I turning the Dizzy the damn cap popped off and cracked while the engine was running :shock:
I went and got another cap and put it on, then the carb started puffing gas every time I tried to start it.
So I go look and the rotor seems damaged (stripped on the inside so it must be rotating freely in there)
I ordered a new Rotor and will get that today.
I am hoping it is just that.

For a second there I thought maybe the Dizzy spun itself out of time when the cap cracked
I will see what the rotor does for me

I may have to re-position the Dizzy if the Rotor doesn't fix it.

I am hoping to find Bubbas thread on installing and tuning

Also I found an Autolite 1100 on ebay for pretty cheap
I should get that by the end of the week
I will check condition and maybe attempt my first carb rebuild

It has been a joy to get back working on old cars again

I moved to Atlanta from California 4 years ago and left the cars and trucks there

Will keep you guys posted

Ok in my first post above I covered the tune up specs and tune up procedures for your 1962 170 Comet engine. Continuing on to getting the correct Distribitor position, by looking at your latest pictures the distribtor looks as though its correctly installed. i.e. the vacuum advance can is pointing at the fuel pump. To further check this out bring the engine up to TDC of the compression stoke for cylinder #1. To verify this check that the timing mark of your Crankshaft Damner is lined up with the 0 degree Mark on the timing cover, the #1 pistion should also be at TDC (top of its bore). Now check were the distribtor's rotor is pointing then make a chock Mark there next install distribtor cap and see if it's pointing at the # 1 plug wires tower. If it is your are now ready to set your timing with the timing light. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Post #3
:D
jeez bubs, might's well go onto the 'carb tune' next.
Finally - put it all in our tech sticky for the whole shebang in
1 place by 1 author (you!) !
:p
:nod:
 
Yes that is a Holley 1909 same carb as my car had. As for the color the original for the Comet would have been Argent Silver Specifically for the Valve Cover and Air Cleaner. The block was left unpainted in the comets, but most going for a factory look will either paint it in a cast iron off grey or black. Same with the oil pan. All the specs that bubba listed are good. I personally didnt go with .016 for the valve lash when setting it hot cause it made too much noise in my opinion i set it to .014 and that little bit made it go from clackity clack to smooth and quiet. I also have my idle set a little higher too, more of a personal preference i suppose. Its about 600-700 my motor just sounds like i wants to stumble and die at 500. Also be careful of your float level setting i sent mine to what was specified via the rebuild kit i got from walker for it and that ended up being too high and the car had hot restart issues until i lowered it slightly. Technically the spec in the ford maintenance manual specifys 6 degrees of advance if i remember correctly but i am running 12 and it actually runs better with more advance. I didnt put any more into it as it didnt seem to run any better and i didnt want pinging but it could potentially take a few more degrees.
 
Also idk if anybody knows but i didnt see any any way to recurve the distributor nor do i see any mechanical advance built into these unit at all? Is the only advance in the LOM distributor from the carb? If thats the case i can definitely see why they arent good for performance or carb swapping.
 
Howdy All:

Hey Cometman 62. You asked "i didnt see any any way to recurve the distributor nor do i see any mechanical advance built into these unit at all? Is the only advance in the LOM distributor from the carb?"

Good question, but it is really off topic. You'd likely do better with responses if you were to start a new topic post. I'd sure have some ideas and suggestions.

Adios, David
 
There are adjustments that can be performed on the loadamatic distributors.
The vacuum pump on my Sun Machine is calibrated for adjusting loadamatics.
The vacuum canisters are still available if you have no advance.
 
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