Winter tune questions?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hello everyone thanks for replying to the last topic. I figured I'd start another one more specific this time. So part of the deal is I need to prove my falcon is ready by daily driving it around town for at least about 2 weeks around Christmas. I had some questions about doing som like that.

1.the frame is pretty good but I'm worried salt on the roads will change that and rust frame

2. I have a 195° thermo ready to plop I'm with some actual antifreeze. Also if I drain the block how do I refill it. Like just put the hoses back on and pour it in but will the pump suck it into the block in time. Do I leave the rad cap off to bleed air

3. What oil should I use. I was thinking 10-40 or 10-30 for winter. Honestly I'm getting fine pressure out of 10-30 so I might just stick with that don't want thick oil unless I need it.

4. How long do these need to "warm up" before I should be able to drive it.

Thanks all for staying with me. I know my questions can be weird and very basic but I appreciate all the help you have given me. The falcon runs because of it. If all goes right and she handles the winter for 2 weeks we will work out a time to drive it down to good ol AZ.
 
Hi, I use a 180* thermostat in my classic cars, and what ever the manufacturer recommends in the modern cars.
You will be fine with 10W-30 or 10W -40.
The W stands for winter.
I would not change the oil just for cold weather.
You should use 50/50 antifreeze mix all the time.
You should not need an extended warm up period. A minute should be enough.
Make sure the choke and high idle is working. Fully closed at start up, and held fully open when it is warmed up. Good luck
 
1) you could spray under there weekly (to clean), U could ‘pre-treat’ every few yrs. w/crankcase oil (guys in WVA would roll under w/what they recycled outta their oil changes) some spray paint, (I don’t recommend paint w/o a totally rust-free surface cuz ‘coverings’ will hold in &/or descise damage), most let it go until repair time;

2) U better have 50%50 in there right now – if not the 32* temps can crack the block, bust the radiator, push out the ‘freeze plugs’, etc.;

3) 10/40 summer, 10/30 winter, a lill zinc in there?

4) no need to warm up, start, drive on w/sense (no hot roddin). In 7 min my choke droops offa the lill fingers in the linkage, but don’t need to “warm up” B4 start my day;

#2 is a priority, #1 a fools adventure (in my mind). Do Not power coat the frame. Do Not use the rubberized under coat - both hide it. 'Paint a clean surface' is best but needs replacement periodically.
 
Howdy All:

"2. I have a 195° thermo ready to plop I'm with some actual antifreeze. Also if I drain the block how do I refill it. Like just put the hoses back on and pour it in but will the pump suck it into the block in time. Do I leave the rad cap off to bleed air"
A- How old is your coolant that is in the engine now? If the coolant is clean and green, just train the radiator and refill from there. There is no need to drain the block unless you have a need to clean it of casting sand and other junk.
But do check both upper and lower hoses for cracking and cavitation. Replace if needed.

"4. How long do these need to "warm up" before I should be able to drive it."
A- Ideally, assuming that your choke and choke high idle pull-off linkage are working as designed no pre-warmup idle is necessary. Your engine will warm up more efficiently as you drive. An engine pre-heater is a good idea and lessens warm up time.

Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
:unsure: I learned a little trick when changing coolant many years ago(about 60 to be exact).Nose down to drain.Nose up to fill.With nose up,any air in the system will work it`s way out when you start the engine,as air rises.As for refilling the cooling system,the coolant will reach the block through the lower hose.As the engine warms up and the thermostat opens just add more water.As for the 50/50 mix,the easy way to figure out how much antifreeze to add,just look at the total capacity of the cooling system,and add half that amount in antifreeze and then continue to fill to full with water.Super simple.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
"...then continue to fill to full with water..."
better run it a long time to mix enuff - I just save an ol empty, fill it 1/2 w/new & fill both w/Distilled Water...
Boss buys the pre-mix'n charges it out to customer. :roll: :LOL:
 
If you going to do a change of your coolant and since the car sat unused for 18 years you should do a good flush of the whole cooling system first thing. Then open it up and replace the T Stat and use that 195 T State since you already have it. X3-4 I agree that the oil you have should be fine for use in AZ. temps. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
If you want to save headache for bleeding the water system, drill a 1/8" hole in the top of the thermostat. This will allow perty much all the bubbles out, also do the nose up and down thing as previously mentioned.

I did the hole thing and that was the greatest thing I've ever done.
 
:D Hi Chad.It`s never taken more that about 25 minutes for stabilization of temp to do a through
mix.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
"... 25 minutes ..."
sounds bout right.
Standard here is 2 use a 25 cent plastic fitting in the radiaer's 'neck', fill so no air enters.
Place a funnel init & fill w/coolant.
Automatically the water column keeps out the air as it fills.
No bleeds needed.
Wait that same 25 min for a double ck (if wanted) but, never fails.

Thnx Leo, good 2 C U again!
 
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