Are jet sizes proportional to engine size?

Assuming you aren't running it lean, you need to look at your mech advance. Or total advance. If you can get your hands on a dial back timing light get it and see where you're at. I fought an annoying pinging problem forever and ultimately found I was putting 42 degrees in pretty quick(by 2-22K) plus whatever the vacuum advance still wanted. I'm running hi grade w/ 9.6:1 compression in a 250 at sea level. Your 200 shouldn't be pinging. The stock setup in my distributor was a 15L on the small weight. That put me at 30 degrees all in, add 12 degrees initial, plus whatever vacuum is available and you can imagine it may hit 50 degrees or more. The vacuum advance can put in as much as 17-18 degrees or more full tilt. I welded the weight and then filed it to a 13L, ie. 26 degrees, and it fixed all my problems with pinging. I had the vac diaphragm turned to full delay to try and help, but have backed that all the way off as well. I also had drilled and threaded a hole for a long set screw to catch the slot on the arm and limit the vac advance to <11. That's gone to. Next step is to put some 87 in it and see what happens. It's still got all the timing it needs to get up to 70 or light up the tires. Find a dial back light and check it out.
 
Econoline":2jey1cn5 said:
Assuming you aren't running it lean, you need to look at your mech advance. Or total advance. If you can get your hands on a dial back timing light get it and see where you're at. I fought an annoying pinging problem forever and ultimately found I was putting 42 degrees in pretty quick(by 2-22K) plus whatever the vacuum advance still wanted. I'm running hi grade w/ 9.6:1 compression in a 250 at sea level. Your 200 shouldn't be pinging. The stock setup in my distributor was a 15L on the small weight. That put me at 30 degrees all in, add 12 degrees initial, plus whatever vacuum is available and you can imagine it may hit 50 degrees or more. The vacuum advance can put in as much as 17-18 degrees or more full tilt. I welded the weight and then filed it to a 13L, ie. 26 degrees, and it fixed all my problems with pinging. I had the vac diaphragm turned to full delay to try and help, but have backed that all the way off as well. I also had drilled and threaded a hole for a long set screw to catch the slot on the arm and limit the vac advance to <11. That's gone to. Next step is to put some 87 in it and see what happens. It's still got all the timing it needs to get up to 70 or light up the tires. Find a dial back light and check it out.
Click to expand...
You may be right. Bill said my CRT Performance HEI was horribly adjusted for my car. This may very well be the case. I can't afford a dial back right now and I'd probably just send it to Bill to do. But i can't have the car down for a week or more while i wait to get it back, this is my daily.

I think it has to be the dizzy at this point b/c i just increased my main jet 3 sizes and it still pings/dets.

I'll just leave it at 10 till i can get some time to send it to Bill.
 
There are kits available from lots of companies to try and recurve the distributor yourself. The harder part is if you want to set a timing limiter or things of that nature check out this video this guy is pretty opinionated but the actual installation side of things is still pretty informative.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/pag ... prd447.htm

check out his other videos and articles they give some good overall info

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?pty ... 3&mode=cat

EDIT: i forgot to include a kit, MSD make probably the most complete that i have found, and their instructions are the most clear and give the most direct info.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
 
62Cometman":3jgaljy7 said:
There are kits available from lots of companies to try and recurve the distributor yourself. The harder part is if you want to set a timing limiter or things of that nature check out this video this guy is pretty opinionated but the actual installation side of things is still pretty informative.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/pag ... prd447.htm

check out his other videos and articles they give some good overall info

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?pty ... 3&mode=cat

EDIT: i forgot to include a kit, MSD make probably the most complete that i have found, and their instructions are the most clear and give the most direct info.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
Click to expand...
Just from reading what the guy is saying, it's kinda the opposite of my problem, I'm getting too much too quick. The vacuum advance really kicks in when i floor it and makes it ping. Could just backing that off help a bit? Should i try running no vacuum advance at first to test this theory? Its not pinging bad, its just noticable, which is bad haha.
 
The vacuum advance does not advance @ full throttle, unless your vacuum does not go to zero at WOT.
 
Yeah, it's not the vacuum advance. You are running lean and/or you have too much mechanical advance.
 
Crap. So i need to put looser springs in it? The prob is i have no experience with this kinda stuff. I'll watch the videos you sent me Econoline and see if he goes into all that.
 
So after watching the video, i need stiffer springs... but that makes my performance worse b/c the timing is coming in later. So maybe it is still running lean.

I dont know how familiar you all are with weber 32/36s but if when i hit the gas to the floor (technically its not WOT b/c the mechanical linkage wont let that happen. I have a cable setup i still need to install), and it still pings with higher timing, would that lead you all to think its the main jet or the idle jet? I've read that the idle jet in these do pretty much everything, thats why i mention it.

I really cant afford an AF gauge right now. I'm trying to finish getting my disk brake and conversion to 5 lug finished up. I might also look into putting my C4 into the car, but that requires a rebuild since its a bear to drive with the 2.8 rear with a 3spd. I'd change the resr gear but i hate my clutch. I've bought 5 and this one works but squeaks.
 
62Cometman":20cftswb said:
There are kits available from lots of companies to try and recurve the distributor yourself. The harder part is if you want to set a timing limiter or things of that nature check out this video this guy is pretty opinionated but the actual installation side of things is still pretty informative.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/pag ... prd447.htm

check out his other videos and articles they give some good overall info

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?pty ... 3&mode=cat

EDIT: i forgot to include a kit, MSD make probably the most complete that i have found, and their instructions are the most clear and give the most direct info.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
Click to expand...
The link you provided is very questionable.
This guy only has one good point & that is total advance.
I would eliminate this link, cause it could give 95% of our forum the wrong way to do things with a distributor.
He has no idea when the advance starts & how much centrifugal for ones application.
A stock starter will not even crank over an engine with 26 degrees initial.
You can not recurve a distributor by guessing & that what he's doing.
The vacuum advance if equipped also has to be factored into the equation. Bill
 
wsa111":17qhnqkr said:
62Cometman":17qhnqkr said:
There are kits available from lots of companies to try and recurve the distributor yourself. The harder part is if you want to set a timing limiter or things of that nature check out this video this guy is pretty opinionated but the actual installation side of things is still pretty informative.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/pag ... prd447.htm

check out his other videos and articles they give some good overall info

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?pty ... 3&mode=cat

EDIT: i forgot to include a kit, MSD make probably the most complete that i have found, and their instructions are the most clear and give the most direct info.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
Click to expand...
The link you provided is very questionable.
This guy only has one good point & that is total advance.
I would eliminate this link, cause it could give 95% of our forum the wrong way to do things with a distributor.
He has no idea when the advance starts & how much centrifugal for ones application.
A stock starter will not even crank over an engine with 26 degrees initial.
You can not recurve a distributor by guessing & that what he's doing.
The vacuum advance if equipped also has to be factored into the equation. Bill
Click to expand...
I thought he made it sound way too easy to do. Last i checked you needed that Sun distributor thing you have.

But going back to my last question, if its only pinging when pedal is pressed as far as its gonna go, would you assume thats the idle jet or main jet? I think both are still small but what leads more to pinging when getting near WOT under decent amount of load?
 
StarDiero75":2pglo2k5 said:
wsa111":2pglo2k5 said:
62Cometman":2pglo2k5 said:
There are kits available from lots of companies to try and recurve the distributor yourself. The harder part is if you want to set a timing limiter or things of that nature check out this video this guy is pretty opinionated but the actual installation side of things is still pretty informative.

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/pag ... prd447.htm

check out his other videos and articles they give some good overall info

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm?pty ... 3&mode=cat

EDIT: i forgot to include a kit, MSD make probably the most complete that i have found, and their instructions are the most clear and give the most direct info.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
Click to expand...
The link you provided is very questionable.
This guy only has one good point & that is total advance.
I would eliminate this link, cause it could give 95% of our forum the wrong way to do things with a distributor.
He has no idea when the advance starts & how much centrifugal for ones application.
A stock starter will not even crank over an engine with 26 degrees initial.
You can not recurve a distributor by guessing & that what he's doing.
The vacuum advance if equipped also has to be factored into the equation. Bill
Click to expand...
I thought he made it sound way too easy to do. Last i checked you needed that Sun distributor thing you have.

But going back to my last question, if its only pinging when pedal is pressed as far as its gonna go, would you assume thats the idle jet or main jet? I think both are still small but what leads more to pinging when getting near WOT under decent amount of load?
Click to expand...
Too much total advance or a very lean main jet or enrichment orifice @ WOT.
I don't do Webers.
X chime in.
 
The needle and seat in all Webers isn't a patch on the brilliant ones in US Autolites, Motorcrafts and Holleys and most Carter carbs. The six cylinder engines load the holley Weber float and incomming fuel levels very significantly. But its the fifth thing to check


1. First thing to do is ensure there is no crud in the carb, and

2. go up a step to the 3.0 mm needle and seat used in the 38DGAS, like Ford Europe did.

3. Personally, bleed back fuel delivery like the 4.2 liter Jeep fuel filter is a good first step if you have no fuel pressure reducer. Crown Automotive Fuel Filter Kit 1974-86 Jeep CJ 2.5L/4.2L. Crown Automotive J8129383

4. And the PCV valve always messes up how a Holley Weber behaves at idle and during progression. Spending more on the PCV via this is my suggestion. http://mewagner.com/?p=444

5. Float level. Fig 25, 26 & 27 https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/ma ... uretor.pdf

6. A little 2-bbl has a practically sonic idle in a six cylinder car. Opening the secondary slightly allows the base idle to be tuned properly.

7. After that, ignition settings must be good.

Learn to look for the stupid stuff, because these things will NOT RUN RIGHT AT ALL if there is anything going on in the way of a vac leak or extra fuel, whatever. Propane torch is good for finding leaks.
 
xctasy":c7ainpy3 said:
The needle and seat in all Webers isn't a patch on the brilliant ones in US Autolites, Motorcrafts and Holleys and most Carter carbs. The six cylinder engines load the holley Weber float and incomming fuel levels very significantly. But its the fifth thing to check


1. First thing to do is ensure there is no crud in the carb, and

2. go up a step to the 3.0 mm needle and seat used in the 38DGAS, like Ford Europe did.

3. Personally, bleed back fuel delivery like the 4.2 liter Jeep fuel filter is a good first step if you have no fuel pressure reducer. Crown Automotive Fuel Filter Kit 1974-86 Jeep CJ 2.5L/4.2L. Crown Automotive J8129383

4. And the PCV valve always messes up how a Holley Weber behaves at idle and during progression. Spending more on the PCV via this is my suggestion. http://mewagner.com/?p=444

5. Float level. Fig 25, 26 & 27 https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/ma ... uretor.pdf

6. A little 2-bbl has a practically sonic idle in a six cylinder car. Opening the secondary slightly allows the base idle to be tuned properly.

7. After that, ignition settings must be good.

Learn to look for the stupid stuff, because these things will NOT RUN RIGHT AT ALL if there is anything going on in the way of a vac leak or extra fuel, whatever. Propane torch is good for finding leaks.
Click to expand...
Alright I'll answer these 1 at a time. I'll look into the larger needle and seat.

1. Yes it is a very clean carb. Hardly used when i got it 1.5 years ago and have had a filter on it. There is also a new filter in the tank.

2.ok will do

3. I have a NAPA fuel regulator set at 4psi. No flooding has ever occurred.

4. I do have a PCV, its a NOS 1970 200 one. Just installed it this past summer. I'll read into what you got still.

5. Float was level as ever when i checked jt when i got it.

6. The idle is very good. But i read that the speed screw shouldnt be more than 2 turns in, mine is like 4.5 or more.

7. The dizzy i have is fine. The curve may not be great. Like earlier said i can't run more than 10°BTDC without ping/det.

There is absolutely no vacuum leak. I have checked it all over. New hoses and all. Good gaskets tightened real snug.
 
Quote: The dizzy i have is fine. The curve may not be great. Like earlier said i can't run more than 10°BTDC without ping/det.:Quote
No your distributor is not fine.
It needs to be calibrated for your engine.
You need to check A/F ratio with a wideband.
14.5-14.7 cruise, 12-5-13.1 WOT.
Need to see what you have then we will go from there.
No further discussion till you get those #'s.
Start a new post when you get the above problems taken care of.
Then you can separate to two conditions. Ignition & then fuel.
This topic is now locked.
 
I unlocked this topic.
If your post is related go for it.
Any new results?? you be the judge.
I just want updated info on the original post.
 
wsa111":3ag7h9u4 said:
I unlocked this topic.
If your post is related go for it.
Any new results?? you be the judge.
I just want updated info on the original post.
Click to expand...
I just bought the AEM AFR gauge from summit. Complete kit. I need to get the bung welded in next week or the following depending on time and money. Will update with numbers afterwards

Thank for checking
 
C if they R cheeper in bulk.
Get 1 for the Lark & motors on test stands.
That way U can move the wide band'n guage around.
 
Just got the gauge in and hooked up today. I have an appointment tomorrow at my exhaust shop to put in the O2 bung. I'll let you all know by Tuesday what the numbers are
 

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have an appointment tomorrow at my exhaust shop to put in the O2 bung.

just be sure it is instaled as per instructions: For NA usually not too far from exh outlet and sensor end slightly inclined rearward. FI applications are more specific.

The AFR gauge is a revelation to us old-timers with preliminary fire-up indicators as to direction of mixture tuning. The AFR situation under load vs the static AFR's are more than helpful . For NA it gives confidence in the performance quest and for forced induction, can indicate initial problems and (help) prevent possible catastrophic failure.

have fun



 
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