Getting an E0 head

StarDiero75 · Dec 17, 2018

Howdy guys,

So today I'll be picking up a 1980 200 head with these specs: 1.750 in. Intake, 1.380 in exhuast. I think I've found what Ive been looking for. Supposedly it was rebuilt 200 miles ago but the engine threw a rod. I'm gonna check out the bottom of the head when I get there. The guy's settling for $150.

Thats a decent price right for a late log head?

I will of course be sending this to the machine shop to have them check it all out and do what the performance manual suggests like 1.80 intake valves and 1.5 exhaust valves, backcuts, etc.

Any other recomendations for it? I kinda want to get it set up for a direct mount holley/motorcraft with a plate that lets me run my weber. For tjose of you who've done that before, what does that cost to have done?

Thanks guys,
Ryan

chad · Dec 17, 2018

have U seen the good and bad of the direct mount (on here & in the Handbook)?
To me the important thing is coordination the timing of the fill/build up with the milling. Our member
"MPGs" shows a poorly done one...

From reading here (& seeing pic for 9 yrs) I submized it as a "fill 1st, then mill." But I've been corrected as mill, fill, re-mill...

powerband · Dec 17, 2018

Supposedly it was rebuilt 200 miles ago but the engine threw a rod.

EOxx head is the grail ! , as long as piston didn't hit valves ...

Biggest valves and compression chambers for keeping CR in check . If head was part of 'rebuild', it probably was surface milled for flatness and maybe cut for upping or maintaining original CR. Any info available on 'rebuild' may be helpful.

... good to inspect inside 3/4 exh port top for any cracks, also exhaust and thermo threads are susceptible to problems.

haev fun

'closed chamber' DOxx head from '71 170:

chad · Dec 17, 2018

CC it B4 assembly?

Econoline · Dec 17, 2018

There should be a receipt for the valve job. I wouldn't bother with putting in larger intake valves, just up the exhaust. Shrouding of the intake valve is a problem that is going to negate any gains from what I understand.

StarDiero75 · Dec 18, 2018

So update, the guy meant to tell me a knock not a thrown rod. He had his words mixed up. But he still ended up ditching it and put a 302 in his bronco.

So I paid $150 for it, looks super clean, got a Clifford Weber adapter with it, non-adjustable rockers, pushrods, and home made EGR block offs. One has a special mount for cable linkage so thats neat.

Here are the pictures.

Also, what car was B. I know D was Falcon. The casting is E0BE. Just curious

StarDiero75 · Dec 18, 2018

Econoline":2lgs7ync said:
There should be a receipt for the valve job. I wouldn't bother with putting in larger intake valves, just up the exhaust. Shrouding of the intake valve is a problem that is going to negate any gains from what I understand.

I just sent him a text asking if he knew what exactly was done. Will update when he gets back.
Whats the benefit of just doing the larger exhaust valves?

62Cometman · Dec 18, 2018

As econoline said the intake valve would be shrouded, its crammed into the combustion chamber, think about putting an elephant into an elevator sure it can be done but getting in and out of the elevator is rough going, the fix is actually grinding the combustion chamber to give more room around the valves to allow them to breathe. Even though milling the head for the larger 2 barrel style setup will increase air flow into the head the rest of the head stays the same and without boost your not likely to be able to utilize the larger intake valves. The exhaust is much more noticeable when you increase the size due to how small they are to start off with.

chad · Dec 18, 2018

"...the intake valve would be shrouded,..."
worth a lill p&p/grinding to unshroud? then the valve change?
how bout his idea for a direct mount (of that 32/36 or 5200)?

CZLN6 · Dec 18, 2018

Howdy Back Ryan and All:

Congrats on the EOxx head find. If I recall the "B" indicates the Fox Fords and later Granadas of the early 80s. You have recieved good advice on your plans. On the inspection be sure to ask for a cc measurement of several chambers so you can plan accurately when deciding on your goal compression ratio. I'd recommend a CR of at least 9:1 and maybe a little more depending on your circumstances and plans. Since you know that the head has likely been rebuilt previously, and that likely included some milling, measuring for chamber volume will be critical.

Your plan to modify the log for a direct mount is on target whether you chose to go Holley, Autolite or Weber. A direct mount carb is so much better than using an adapter.

Unless you are going for high rpm operations the upgrade to 1.80" intake valves is a long reach for a short step unless you are planning for serious reshaping of the combustion chamber to lessen shrouding. Since you are planning for a Weber carb efficient revs beyond 5,000 are unlikely. 1.75" and 1.5" will be great. Have you decided on a performance cam for this engine?

Again, good get on the EOxx head. Keep us updated on what else you find out about it and what you plan for it. Good luck.

Adios, David

bubba22349 · Dec 18, 2018

StarDiero75":3jbjluk6 said:
So update, the guy meant to tell me a knock not a thrown rod. He had his words mixed up. But he still ended up ditching it and put a 302 in his bronco.

So I paid $150 for it, looks super clean, got a Clifford Weber adapter with it, non-adjustable rockers, pushrods, and home made EGR block offs. One has a special mount for cable linkage so thats neat.

Here are the pictures.

Also, what car was B. I know D was Falcon. The casting is E0BE. Just curious

congrats that's a Great Score! E0BE design numbers will decode like this

E = is for the decade of 1980
0 = is the year of 0 or first year of decade so is a 1980 designed part
B = is the Ford car model line that the part was orginaly designed for, in this case its a Ford Fairmont. The Ford Falcon model line was discontinued at the mid year of production year 1971. The new Ford Fairmont's (first year of the Fox chassis) were than introduced in 1978.
E = the Ford department that designed the part in this case the engine line.

Good luck

StarDiero75 · Dec 18, 2018

CZLN6":2pmaygzo said:
Howdy Back Ryan and All:

Congrats on the EOxx head find. If I recall the "B" indicates the Fox Fords and later Granadas of the early 80s. You have recieved good advice on your plans. On the inspection be sure to ask for a cc measurement of several chambers so you can plan accurately when deciding on your goal compression ratio. I'd recommend a CR of at least 9:1 and maybe a little more depending on your circumstances and plans. Since you know that the head has likely been rebuilt previously, and that likely included some milling, measuring for chamber volume will be critical.

Your plan to modify the log for a direct mount is on target whether you chose to go Holley, Autolite or Weber. A direct mount carb is so much better than using an adapter.

Unless you are going for high rpm operations the upgrade to 1.80" intake valves is a long reach for a short step unless you are planning for serious reshaping of the combustion chamber to lessen shrouding. Since you are planning for a Weber carb efficient revs beyond 5,000 are unlikely. 1.75" and 1.5" will be great. Have you decided on a performance cam for this engine?

Again, good get on the EOxx head. Keep us updated on what else you find out about it and what you plan for it. Good luck.

Adios, David

Alright so I'll stay with the 1.75", sounds cheaper for me too lol.

So i plan on being able to at least use 87 octane. Im a poor college kid that cant afford premium. Would 9.0:1 be good? I want to have as high of compression I can while still running the 87.

Also the guy got back to me, he says it had a valve grind but he cant remember if its the 3 angle. Plus it was milled. He said I should be able to take it back to the same NAPA machine and he could tell me the milling and all.

Yes I really want to be able to run a 2bbl. I do currently have my 32/36 on my C6 head but I'm using an adapter. The carb hole on the E0 is huge compared to mine. Plus it came with a weber adapter.

I have not even looked into cams yet. I can say though, i want a smooth idle, decent MPG, but id like it to get up and go a little better than it does now. I'm also planning on getting 1.6 rockers, would I be better off not getting them If i do a cam, or am I better off keeping the stock one and running the 1.6 rockers?

Thanks,
Ryan

bmbm40 · Dec 18, 2018

Good buy on that head so congratulations. That head with a direct mount carb and cam sounds like what you need to go fast. Was the block for it a 200 or 250? Might be worth getting or disclose the location one of the members might be interested as the knock cause may not be fatal.

CZLN6 · Dec 18, 2018

Howdy Back Ryan:

Yes, 9:1 is a good goal for 87 octane gas. Other factors like the elevation where you are, peak temperature, gearing of your car, transmission type, and a well tuned carb and a distributor advance curve that complements the carb. All could effect the likely hood of engine knock.

On the head, verify that the valves and seats received, at least, a three angle valve job and a 30 degree back-cut on the intake valves.

On the cam, you would be wise to get involved is selecting a performance cam now. Planning for the whole package now will save time and money later. Also, buy a cam that has the lift that you desire and stick with 1.5:1 rockers. That will save you money and add less stress on the valve train. I would recommend adjustable 1.5:1rocker arms to be able to get the most out of your cam.

I will be anxious to hear what you fine out from the NAPA machinist. So, keep it coming.

Adios, David

StarDiero75 · Dec 18, 2018

bmbm40":fdhtdqqg said:
Good buy on that head so congratulations. That head with a direct mount carb and cam sounds like what you need to go fast. Was the block for it a 200 or 250? Might be worth getting or disclose the location one of the members might be interested as the knock cause may not be fatal.

So he's in Port Orchard, WA. Check Seattle craigslist and search Bronco under auto parts. It'll be the one with a picture of a blue DUI dizzy. I think the area will say Kitsap county

It was a 200

StarDiero75 · Dec 18, 2018

CZLN6":357ni9s1 said:
Howdy Back Ryan:

Yes, 9:1 is a good goal for 87 octane gas. Other factors like the elevation where you are, peak temperature, gearing of your car, transmission type, and a well tuned carb and a distributor advance curve that complements the carb. All could effect the likely hood of engine knock.

On the head, verify that the valves and seats received, at least, a three angle valve job and a 30 degree back-cut on the intake valves.

On the cam, you would be wise to get involved is selecting a performance cam now. Planning for the whole package now will save time and money later. Also, buy a cam that has the lift that you desire and stick with 1.5:1 rockers. That will save you money and add less stress on the valve train. I would recommend adjustable 1.5:1rocker arms to be able to get the most out of your cam.

I will be anxious to hear what you fine out from the NAPA machinist. So, keep it coming.

Adios, David

So I don't have much to help the engine out. The rear end is a 2.8, 8" and the tranny is a 65' 3.03 off a 289. Its a bear to drive in town in western WA since its literally hills everywhere. Also I do plan to have wsa recurve my CRT Performance HEI for it. I am at sea level though for half the time. Maybe max height is 1500ft above.
I do plan on running a T5 and a 3.8 or 4.11 rear depending on what the OD is on the T5. And i might go with an Autolite 2100 or continue using the 32/36. I have a spare 289 with a 2100 on it, i still need to verify its venturi size but i havent had time to check the stamped part of the bowl.

So definitely cam over rockers? I'll keep it hydraulic and I already do have adjustable 1.5s. Do you know of a cam off hand for what I want for the engine? Good idle, decent MPG, but a bit more power/torque.

Yes he said he definitely had something done with the valves whether it be the 30° backcut or 3 angle. The machine shop wants me to bring it down so he can see the NAPA stamp on it so he can check what they did. So when i can get around to that I'll let you all know.

Econoline · Dec 19, 2018

The good news is you've got an 8" rear end. Iiwy I would consider swapping the chunk out now to something in the 3.5:1 range. It sounds like economy is important to you so even with the overdrive in the future that will keep you in a good spot. It'll scream a little on the highway with the 3-spd but that's the way they did it. I've seen 4:1 stock 3-spd econolines. Mine was 3.5:1, I went to 3.7:1 with the aod, but if I was going to do alot of highway driving I'd strongly consider a 3.25:1 gear w/ my 25-26" tires and with overdrive. 3.5 is a good compromise, gives you pep and it's drivable until the T5 and will be great for mixed highway/city use even with OD. Being an 8" it's easy to swap the 3rd member like a 9". I bet you could find an open 3.5 8" 3rd member pretty cheap.

If you are changing the cam you need to pick the cam first then decide on the C/R. Otherwise with a stock bottom end 9:1 is perfect. Remember you are near sea level and the stock cam is going to raise the dynamic c/r above any aftermarket cam you may chose. The important thing is to measure the deck clearance once you have the head off. And measure the combustion chambers of the old head for reference. You may be at 8:1 now if the head was removed and a new gasket was installed at some point for a valve job or your block has excessive deck height.

StarDiero75 · Dec 20, 2018

Econoline":3krackiu said:
The good news is you've got an 8" rear end. Iiwy I would consider swapping the chunk out now to something in the 3.5:1 range. It sounds like economy is important to you so even with the overdrive in the future that will keep you in a good spot. It'll scream a little on the highway with the 3-spd but that's the way they did it. I've seen 4:1 stock 3-spd econolines. Mine was 3.5:1, I went to 3.7:1 with the aod, but if I was going to do alot of highway driving I'd strongly consider a 3.25:1 gear w/ my 25-26" tires and with overdrive. 3.5 is a good compromise, gives you pep and it's drivable until the T5 and will be great for mixed highway/city use even with OD. Being an 8" it's easy to swap the 3rd member like a 9". I bet you could find an open 3.5 8" 3rd member pretty cheap.

If you are changing the cam you need to pick the cam first then decide on the C/R. Otherwise with a stock bottom end 9:1 is perfect. Remember you are near sea level and the stock cam is going to raise the dynamic c/r above any aftermarket cam you may chose. The important thing is to measure the deck clearance once you have the head off. And measure the combustion chambers of the old head for reference. You may be at 8:1 now if the head was removed and a new gasket was installed at some point for a valve job or your block has excessive deck height.

Yeah I've been looking around for another 3rd member but these people want like $300+ for them, and they're all 2.8s. I used to have a 3.5 in it with my 7.25. I used to do a decent amount of highway but not really anymore so I may try to make my move on that.
When i get my T5 then, with the 3.5, should i be looking for more of a L4 version or a V6 version? The V8 is gonna have the deepest OD and that is gonna be a little much with the 3.5, which is why i was considering the 3.8-4.11.

This is all gonna be a while before I switch the head. I'm already looking at trying to get the 2V conversion done and after I find out whats been done to it previously, I'll have the rest of the head done to Falcon Performance Manual specs.

Im not familiar at all with cams. I understand the basic principle of how they work and what they do but nothing specific. Why will the stock one only raise dynamic pressure? Isnt dynamic pressure what you want, or just high static?

Econoline · Dec 20, 2018

The dynamic compression is a result of the amount of overlap and duration the cam has. As you go up through the performance cams the dynamic compression at any given static c/r will go down. That's why you can run higher static c/r's with bigger cams. If you know the cam specs you can calculate what the dynamic c/r will be for you're setup.

StarDiero75 · Dec 20, 2018

Econoline":2qcssva8 said:
The dynamic compression is a result of the amount of overlap and duration the cam has. As you go up through the performance cams the dynamic compression at any given static c/r will go down. That's why you can run higher static c/r's with bigger cams. If you know the cam specs you can calculate what the dynamic c/r will be for you're setup.

Oh sweet! So with a 9.0:1 CR, what kind of dynamic CR should i be looking for?

Thanks a lot man!

Getting an E0 head

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