Need an engine

Charlie Cheap

Active member
Looking for the best replacement motor for my 65 Mustang. It is bored to the max at .060" with an adaptor for the 2-barrel. I want a more dependable block as .060" over is the very maximum, especially here in west Texas. I also have the kit to mount a 2-barrel on a machined head. I build for dependability, MPG and highway running...not max power. The cam makes most torque in the 2,000 - 3500 range and I do not run a tube header due to the heat they produce. I know I can wrap it but cast iron is quitter and I have a nice stereo with extra speakers. The ignition is Home-Built by me running PerTronix. The rear gears are 2.83 and the tires are almost 2" taller than OEM. Torque is little effected (header to stock) if a straight-thru short muffler is used and all bends in the system are straightened using 2' tubing. I run factory AC with a Sandon compressor and lots of comfort and suspension mods. Front discs with 15" wheels, rear sway-bar with poly bushings, front poly bushings in the sway-bar, gas shocks all around, Monte Carlo bar and export brace, heavy GT front coils cut 3/4 turn and rear 1" blocks. I built a cool-air intake but disconnected it for a long trip to Tennessee and Mississippi because it hit the hood occasionally and I did not want trouble on a trip. It still got 24.5 MPG on 2,275 miles running the AC all the way. I built drivers frame-up for over 50 years...yes I am old at 75, but now I build what I want and I love to drive to new places with the wife of 53 years riding shotgun. I need the complete engine as I am an ASE engine builder, so I will take it from scratch to finished, but I do not want to bore it over .030" for dependability reasons. I'll look for it myself if I know what to look for year/car wise. THANKS!
1743
 
Sounds like U wanna buy an engine.
Look at our "4 sale" (I have a 250 & a 170) forum?
There's some kinda app U can use that scans all the CL, FB MrktPlace, flee-bay sites (nation wide) & posts to ur in-bx.
Or C:

car-part.com

and plug in ur needs (inc locale) in the boxes. You;re in an area of the country that hasem in local 'junk yrds'. Here anything older than 10 yrs is sent to the crusher. Look local, renta Home Depot or UHaul truck w/boom?

I have used a shipper (800 & 500 mi) for motors ($150 each) and like them / can offer as a contact for you if wanting - when U find a motor.
Reliable, inexpensive (on close 1 he asked me "How much U wanna pay?" & met that price) but can take awhile. That way U don't even handle @ all (deliver to machine shop or U. If U - dissasembly notin what U wanna & load ina car - I'm old & can wrk w/the weighta pieces).
Good Luck, let us know how U do~
(y)
 
hey, there's a neighbor...
(y)
 
I should have posted I do NOT want a 250. The 200 modified as I will do it, works great in my car. As I understand the 250 is taller for the longer stroke, and I do not want that.
imgimg_1743] I can't get my pics to post.
 
cr_bobcat":q2vaidk9 said:
Welcome back Charles! How is the LH6 doing?
& did he get rid of the AFM
(by which choice?).
 
I have a 65' block i want to ditch. It full of everything you need. Im in Seattle so shipping might be much. I'd let it go cheap.

Also, can't you just resleeve your block to fix the overbore? Maybe thats not how it works but that might be an idea if it does
 
I found a 200 six from a 1973 Maverick with the C4 automatic complete for $300.00. I will pull the head to check the internals later today but at that price I jumped on it. The head has the small valves but bigger log which works great for MPG and low-end torque. I'll machine the intake for the 2-barrel and install my 65 new parts in this block if it will take a .040" over bore...or less. Knowing how hard it is to find these older blocks I was very surprised to find one right here in Abilene. Now if it will clean-up, I am in business. So far so good!
 
Great that you were able to find one local. The 73 block should be dual pattern allowing you to use the 9-inch bellhousing.

Keep us informed.
 
thnx 4 keepin us informed. I C yer specs in post 1 & 9 but somehow I missed what carb you'll 'direct mount'. Can U post that w/who's adaptor? Like the 15 inch tire upgrade...

I posted on yer 'stray post' over on the 'new site thread' (found in Forum Issues Only) Major Forum Upgrade Comming Soon:

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=79383

Anyway, I think a 200/C4 combo for 3hundred is great!

Luv 2 C any Before / After pic of the "...machine the intake for the 2-barrel ..."
(ie a shot or 3 of the process - 1st pass'n fill, nxt pass'n fill, final pass and results). Do U have the capacity for showing this? Would U like some guidance on how to post pic on this site?

Thnx'n good luck w/the new build!
 
After checking many sources and knowing what I want from my new-to-me 73 six 200, I think it will take a .020" bore and the 6.5cc dish pistons. With about .050" off the head to reduce the head chambers and .005" off the block, I should be around 8.7 static and 7.5 dynamic compression. I am thinking about keeping the 2-barrel adaptor rather than machining the intake for a direct mount. My reasoning is, the 73 intake opening is 1/4" bigger than the 65 and I can do some grinding to enlarge it more. With the carb mounting boss machined to lower it plus take a little off the adaptor to lower it more, it should clear the hood. The valves in the 73 are the same small ones as the 65, so velocity should be similar to what I had...and that worked fine. Using the almost new cam/lifters/push rods from the 65 that have about 10,000 miles, and using the alternator, starter, distributor, wires, plugs, and any almost new stuff I already have, I can save a bunch. With only .020" overbore the block should be good for decades and thousands of miles, while running cool. With the carb intake hole 1/4" bigger, the Autolite 2100 2-barrel having annular-atomization, the cool-air intake tube sending cooler air to the carb, the intake should be good. The hotter ignition has a homebuilt distributor, with a MSD .8 ohm resistor to feed slightly higher voltage to the primary of the ACCEL 8140 42,000 volts coil, that works great in the 65 using BWD Select parts (points, rotor, cond., cap), 8.5mm wire-wound plug wires, and Autolite Platinum plugs #AP46 gaped at .040". I run a Pertronix but keep the points-cond. in the glove box just in case. The exhaust has been modified for better flow with less restriction. With these mods I have a better fuel-air mix into the combustion chamber, a hotter spark to ignite it, a cam that makes power where I want it, and a free-flowing exhaust to reduce backpressure, which should amount to better overall engine performance.
 
OK, godid now,
"... (carb intake hole 1/4" bigger), the Autolite 2100..."
will the boar need a lill 'clearencing' for the throttle blades to clear?
(a bit of a funnel shape)
Duz the carb sit up enuff frm the log to not scrape?

Like that carb choice.
:nod:
 
Sounds like a good build plan! Are you able to open up the carb hole to around 2 inches? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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