Are the Clifford Cam & Weber 38 kits worth the money?

Have a stock 200 66 Mustang with a 1940 carb and Clifford headers. Thinking of purchasing the Clifford 264 Cam Kit and their Weber 38 kit also. Thought I would check here first to see if they were worth the price. Any input is much appreciated.

not sure whats the application (vehicle/motor, 80% of driving/use conditions)...
* The cam might B explored (& possibly bought) directly frm the manafactuter (know who's it is? what the cam crd sez?).
* That he probably has alota "weber kits" so same Q - the application, end goal, match w/other prts (the auto is a system so what U do 2 1 prt effects all the others).

Lota us use Matt with vintageinlines dot com as he;s a member here, took off a company w/deeper roots here than clifford (but that's a good co too).

At 6 posts I hope its not to late 4 me to say:

W E L C O M E !!!
to our forum (best on ford6) and
to this SITE !

Vintage Inlines has a weber kit available. He markets Clay Smith Cams.
Another option is call Jerry at Schneider Camshafts. He is very knowledgeable with the small six.
Whatever camshaft you go with make sure you also get their valve springs for the cam you choose.
The 260 Comp cams is not recommended, its an antiquated profile & will lack the power of the other two.
The Isky 262 is a good choice for strong low end & midrange.
All the above camshafts love a better rocker arm ratio than the stock 1.5.
Anytime you upgrade the above you need a distributor recurved to get the most for your choice.
I can help you there, see the small six section for sale section of the forum. Bill

Howdy Oaker:

My first thought is did you consider the likelyhood of having hood clearance problems? If that is not a problem, then tuning a Weber to your engine will be a bit of a challenge. Many here have done this upgrade and tuning the Weber, but it will not be a simple bolt-on. Moving up from a #1940 is a good step.

I've done business with Clifford's since back when Jack Clifford himself ran things. Development at Clifford's has dropped off some since Jack passed.

Before you can effectively decide on a cam upgrade you will need to have an end plan for your engine. What is your long range plan?

May I suggest that you will be better off in the long run, money and performance wise to wait on the cam until you are ready to do some head work. I'd suggest that you invest in a late head, 1978 and later. You can get a core head and do the work to bring it up to your goals- then swap the cam while the old head is off to make room for the new (rebuilt) one. My main point here is plan ahead to save time and money.

What is your plan?

Adios, David

Current setup is stock 1966 Mustang 200 with a 1940 carb with a DUI.

My plan is to install a Weber 38, low profile air cleaner, cable throttle, 1978 250 head, 264 cam, double timing chain.

I would like to do it in 2 stages. 1) carb 2) cam and timing chain, if need be 3) head

How does that setup work?
Would I be able to drive after stage one? Weber 38, no cam upgrade

Thank you

I think that is a good plan. I don't know what your ignition system situation is, but if you are using the original points setup, I'd throw some kind of ignition change in there first. My recommendation would be a DSII distributor w/a Delco 4-pin HEI module and a TFI coil. Then the carb or both if you are running a LoM carb now and swapping to something else. Then, I'd probably just plan on doing the cam/lifters and the head together as the next step since they are interrelated, and likely you'll want to upgrade the springs for the new cam. I can't recommend Clifford b/c I've read too many bad stories, stories from lately. And they are really expensive with bad to no support from what I understand. I'd look to Schneider or VI/Clay Smith for the cam. Before you do anything you should do a compression test on the engine. If there are any low spots follow up with a leak down test to see whether it's in the rings or in the valves.

Edit:

OakR8ders12":392miucn said:

Current setup is stock 1966 Mustang 200 with a 1940 carb with a DUI.

Click to expand...

I missed that, der.

Howdy Back OakR and All;

"Current setup is stock 1966 Mustang 200 with a 1940 carb with a DUI."
A- First, which 1940 are you using? Does it have a Spark Control Valve (SCV)? Which DUI are you using? If the carb has a SCV it is sending a mismatch vacuum signal to the DUI distributor. Which carb and distributor are you using?

"My plan is to install a Weber 38, low profile air cleaner, cable throttle, 1978 250 head, 264 cam, double timing chain."
A- That is a good plan for a basic street driver type engine. What transmission? You will need to add an increase in compression ratio for that cam. The '78 head is a good one to do a direct mount on the Weber carb. If you are going with a carb adapter be sure to check to added height and hood clearance.

"I would like to do it in 2 stages. 1) carb 2) cam and timing chain, if need be 3) head."
A- 1) is ok, unless you want to direct mount the carb- no adapter. if that is the case, the new head would likely come first.
The cam and cam timing gear change should come while the head is off. The head will need to be off to facilitate cam installation.

"How does that setup work?"
A- As long as the short block is in good shape.That's where the compression tests Econoline suggested come in. I'd do the compression tests first. If you get good cylinder pressures and seal go ahead with the rest. If the short block is weak you will likely be dissapointed.

"Would I be able to drive after stage one? Weber 38, no cam upgrade."
A- Yes.

What transmission and rear gear are you using?

Keep it coming. Planning, assessing what you have and planning accordingly will save you money, time and heart ache in the end. So, for now, go ahead with the carb upgrade and start searching for a '78 and later head to prep it to go on when you do the cam install.

Adios, David

"A- First, which 1940 are you using? Does it have a Spark Control Valve (SCV)? Which DUI are you using? If the carb has a SCV it is sending a mismatch vacuum signal to the DUI distributor. Which carb and distributor are you using?"

It does have a SCV.

My distributor is: Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850052

"What transmission and rear gear are you using?" Automatic is all I know, will have to peak (amateur lol), rear gear is 7.25.

I think you can do better with Vintage Inlines.

Also what is a blueprint HEI? Summit doesnt say.

OakR8ders12":3f1jrnbu said:

"A- First, which 1940 are you using? Does it have a Spark Control Valve (SCV)? Which DUI are you using? If the carb has a SCV it is sending a mismatch vacuum signal to the DUI distributor. Which carb and distributor are you using?"

It does have a SCV.

My distributor is: Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850052

Click to expand...

You are correct using a SCV carb on a non SCV distributor.
Your blueprinted Summit HEI is not curved for your engine. The specs are close to a DUI which is one size fits all.
Anyone who purchases one of these mass produced units is leaving HP & Torque on the table.
To get back to the post if you go with the Weber deal or a camshaft, either one will let you run either ported vacuum or manifold vacuum for the advance.

Should I upgrade from the fuel regulator to an electric fuel pump?

Do I need an addition carb spacer for Weber 38 or is the 2-1 adapter enough?

Thanks

"...Do I need an addition carb spacer for Weber 38 or is the 2-1 adapter enough?..."
C "the Handbook" or above 'tech archive' for a direct 2V mount