Home Exhaust Porting

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

So i got a 1980 200 head that I'm gonna have modded for a direct 2bbl. I plan on using dual headers unless i decide to turbo it, kinda conflicted right now.

But so, I will be porting the exhaust ports myself since I'm not paying a machinist $70+ an hour to do so. I have a tungsten carbide cutter dremel bit, will this be what I can do this with? I don't want to use the wrong piece so i dont wreck it.

Also, I've heard of a burr, what does it do and do i need one to do this? If there's anything else I need to do this job, let me know.

Thanks guys,
Ryan
 

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You're not going to get very far with a dremel. That bit is a side cutter, that might handle cutting some brass or plastic.

You need air tools, and 1/4" bits, sanding rolls, polishers.

Youtube search cylinder head porting.

There's good reason why someone that has the tools and knows how to do it charges real money for the work.

If they ruin it, they're on the hook to replace or repair it.

If you ruin it.......you're S.O.L.
 
Hi, X2 on the die grinder and carbide grinding burrs. Burrs also come in long lengths to reach deep into the ports.
So you also need an air compressor.
Most of the cleanup work is in the bowl, above the valve, and port matching at the exhaust manifold.
I believe Eastwood sells head porting kits, with cartridge roll sandpaper and arbors.
Good luck
 
There are several ways to do it but a dremel typically doesnt have the power to make it happen. As much as i hate to say it, HF offers a "cheap" electric die grinder that uses a 1/4 chuck and you can get their electric motor control to help keep rpms to a controllable constant. And eastwood offers a set of long reach carbides for porting there are other sets out there too and it wouldnt be a bad idea to have multiple sets of different lengths and shapes, also grinding stones and sanding / polishing kits. IF you just want to give it a try i would start with the cheapest setup you can run and still get a decent result to see if its something you want to attempt or not.


https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-43- ... 60656.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-too ... 43060.html

https://search.eastwood.com/search?ts=custom&w=carbide

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-1 ... 94991.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Gaske ... 88042.html
 
1), 2) U need carbide burs in link # 3 & polishers in #5 links.
3) Hrs'n hrs of patients (I have too much arthritis in my hands now).

and lastly
4) knowledge of the flow bench principals. U dont wanna take off the wrong places (ruin, waste time).

For #4 I believe there R pic & threads on our site (what to do/not do, how far to go, B4/after pic, etc). "Gasket match exhaust" I think is noted as a waste of time for our engines. I think "remove boss holding valve stem" is suggested. "P&P bowls" recommended. I really don't know. I DO remember (as I am a systemic thinker) that it is not done in isolation to other mods (a waste unless preceeded by other operations/prts changes). Congrats on ur begining the due diligence on this 1 B4 jumpin in. :nod:
 
I used a dremel with an assortment of burrs, stones, and sanders. I also used the aforementioned HF electric die grinder and electric motor control. I only have a little 5 or 6 gal pancake compressor and I didn't feel like listening to it run all the time. I got a die grinder sanding kit from HF as well. It had a couple of mandrels as well as a number of conical and cylindrical sanding rolls in different grit. I only did work on the combustion chambers (smoothing) and exhaust porting. Primarily to remove casting flash in order to remove hot spots. The transition from the seat to the valve was worked by the machine shop. I considered working the bowls but got impatient and installed the head. It took forever to get the head back from the machine shop and I just wanted to be able to drive. I might have had another thread on the work, but I at least found this one

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=72937

There are some pictures that I had links to. As far as I know, the links still work.

All in all it wasn't too bad. This was my first attempt at doing anything like this. If/when I pull the head again, I'll probably do the rest of the job and clean up the bowls. I've gotten some long reach carbide burrs that I found on ebay that I'll use to do that work. I think I got 4 or 5 different shapes.
 
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