Good electric fans

Econoline":2l623ckf said:
That's one of those units you jam the probe through the radiator fins. You don't really need a 'controller' All you need is a cheapo 1 wire temp switch, a 40 amp standard relay and a fuse. The temp switch goes to ground when it's made and makes the relay and throws a fused power wire from the battery to the fan.
So a little temp sender like the one for my gauge, but sitting in the thermostat housing?
 
Kind of. Except it is a switch. One like this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...=item3d0410c80b:g:MOQAAOSwMxJb4-H0:rk:17:pf:0 You want a switch that won't be fighting the thermostat. iow, off at or before the thermostat closes. iirc, I had a 180F stat and the switch came in @ 200 and is off at 185. Now I have a 160 stat and the switch comes in at 185 and is off at 170. Electric fans are somewhat loud fyi, if they are high volume ones anyway. Also, they draw some juice, so your alternator needs to be up to the task of running one.

I can draw you a wiring diagram.
 
Here's the wiring:

yvJ9PV.jpg


The dotted alternative wiring would keep the circuit powered after shut down and the fan will run until the temp switch is satisfied, if you aren't worried about running the battery down from the fan running until it cools down the switch. Which can take some time and if the switch were to fail closed it would run the battery dead. It would be wired in lieu of the switched power source. And technically that wire should be 10 ga wire b/c it is protected by a 30 amp fuse, although I wouldn't worry about it that much being it is only powering a relay and does have a fuse.

All the battery to fan wiring should be 10 ga. but the switched +12v wire and the wire to the fan switch can be 14 or 16 gauge. If the source of the switched wire is unprotected with a fuse you can put a 5 or 10 amp fuse inline close to its source. Getting a relay wiring loom/connector pigtail is cheap and simplifies wiring and mounting the relay. They are available at any auto parts store.

FYI, in the event that the fan temp switch were ever to fail open and create an overheating situation you can simply ground the wire going to it and the fan will run constantly when the car is running, allowing you to get back home or continue to drive the car until a replacement can be installed.
 
Econoline":16ifa7ma said:
Here's the wiring:

yvJ9PV.jpg


The dotted alternative wiring would keep the circuit powered after shut down and the fan will run until the temp switch is satisfied, if you aren't worried about running the battery down from the fan running until it cools down the switch. Which can take some time and if the switch were to fail closed it would run the battery dead. It would be wired in lieu of the switched power source. And technically that wire should be 10 ga wire b/c it is protected by a 30 amp fuse, although I wouldn't worry about it that much being it is only powering a relay and does have a fuse.

All the battery to fan wiring should be 10 ga. but the switched +12v wire and the wire to the fan switch can be 14 or 16 gauge. If the source of the switched wire is unprotected with a fuse you can put a 5 or 10 amp fuse inline close to its source. Getting a relay wiring loom/connector pigtail is cheap and simplifies wiring and mounting the relay. They are available at any auto parts store.

FYI, in the event that the fan temp switch were ever to fail open and create an overheating situation you can simply ground the wire going to it and the fan will run constantly when the car is running, allowing you to get back home or continue to drive the car until a replacement can be installed.
Man that is amazing! I will buy one right after i finish getting all my disk brake stuff squared away. It is pretty easy to do. Nice diagram.

I'll post back when i bought it and have it all hooked up. Thanks a lot Econoline!

Ryan
 
You can pick up an OEM fan for cheap at a U-pull junkyard. These Volvo S70 / 850 fans are powerful and reasonably compact.
 

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I'm going to have to hit a pickNpull. I've been thinkin of adding an electric fan also. This is great information...
 
Looks like im finally starting to get leaks in the radiator. I'm noticing a little bit of coolant coming from the top section and around the base of the radiator cap. Not what i wanted to spend money on but i guess it looks like im getting a radiator/fan combo
 
If your radiator is original you might consider having it re-cored. We've got a great old school radiator shop in Burlington, there's got to be one down your way.
 
Econoline":34wub6zc said:
If your radiator is original you might consider having it re-cored. We've got a great old school radiator shop in Burlington, there's got to be one down your way.
It's not the original. It looks like someone shifted the upper water inlet from the left side to the right. I'll call the local guy and see what he says. Seems like a good guy, always had fair prices.
 
C posts #26 & 10:
"...the Tarus fans...
complete write up here - or wuz it oneada stang sites...?
 
Tarus/Sable, 3.8L frm early 90s (same is in a vovo) 3 wires (has 2 speeds), one (not 2) fan. Grab temp sensor, shroud & harness as there’s resistors in there. On “hi” it may over draw ur measily oem alternator.

Here’s a thread, but not the 1 I seek:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=152828

I’ll keep lookin. It may B in my archive & I’m onto another puter as that 1 aged out/broke it’s final time. Will keep lookin

(1st one's close to what I have somewhere)
EDIT:
https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/200 ... /index.php
http://www.etnracing.com/pages/Tech/FanControl.htm
 
Max_Effort":1ndcrdob said:
You can pick up an OEM fan for cheap at a U-pull junkyard. These Volvo S70 / 850 fans are powerful and reasonably compact.

What do these measure with the shroud?
 
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