Is this a LOM dizzy or a dual action dizzy?

I got the Pertronix 1261 in a few days ago. The directions tell me "if your system presently has a ballast resistor, do not remove it" so I didn't look for it. I yanked the points and put it in with a little less than .030 gap (I wasn't able to easily fine tune the gap-can't remember why) and noticed five things:

1) It runs, I can get to work now, Yay!

2) It idles faster and smoother. Maybe it idles smoother because it idles faster.

3) I no longer get the occasional "stumble" or "stutter" or "hiccup" at cruising speed that I was getting before! Just smooth, steady motoring!

4) The transmission/clutch doesn't make that god awful screeching noise every 40th time I depress the clutch pedal.

5) Chicks flash their boobs when I pass by.

I'm not positive that 4 and 5 have anything to do with tossing the points, but I'm not putting them back in.
 
Back to the carb dilemma...
Here is the Holley 1940 I took off my spare engine (which is a 200 out of a '67 mustang). Is this Holley supposed to have a SCV?

-Roland
 

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"...so I didn't look for it..."
I stoped right there, didn't read further.
Y would U ignore a guide that tells U how to do an install?
Glad U mentioned it...
 
Ok, as I said before the instructions that came with the ignitor kit say "don't remove the resistor if there is one currently". But, they sent me a 3 ohm flame thrower coil with the ignitor and the coil instructions say "for this 3 ohm coil 6 cyl normal applications- remove resistor".
 
I think I could ID it on a Dodge/MOPOWR.
Here? I think it's "the pink wire" comin frm the back of the ignition switch.
'Less I know all abt what I'm doin - I follow directions (that's
just bout everything electrical ina car 4 me).
 
rmcphearson":mnjuyod1 said:
I got the Pertronix 1261 in a few days ago. The directions tell me "if your system presently has a ballast resistor, do not remove it" so I didn't look for it. I yanked the points and put it in with a little less than .030 gap (I wasn't able to easily fine tune the gap-can't remember why) and noticed five things:

1) It runs, I can get to work now, Yay!

2) It idles faster and smoother. Maybe it idles smoother because it idles faster.

3) I no longer get the occasional "stumble" or "stutter" or "hiccup" at cruising speed that I was getting before! Just smooth, steady motoring!
I like the pertronix 1. I would by-pass the resistor wire & or hook a relay to supply a full 12V to the coil. The pertronix will trigger with less voltage, but i like a coil with low primary resistance which will provide a higher voltage to the plugs.
Gap the plugs at .045-.048" & use spiral wound plug wires.
 
Thanks guys. Bill, I would like to get a re-curved dizzy from you one of these days but there are a few more urgent needs that my $100/mo will go towards.Tires is next. I will be in touch.

Any thoughts on my Holley 1940 photos? Is it supposed to have a SCV?

-Roland
 
Can't tell or see inside the port for sure, but Your Holley 1940 looks like it is for a later model engine and didn't have the SCV so you should be good to go. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
I left the new napa 1.5 ohm coil in for now along with the external resistor. I put new autolite AP46 plugs in gapped to .040. As I described before it idles faster and smoother.

After a couple days of cruising like that I removed the vacuum line from the SCV going to the dual advance dizzy and capped the ports. It seems like there is a significant increase in power. I guess the SCV vacuum was screwing up the dual advance dizzy. I may try using manifold vacuum at a later date. But I'll probably just stick with my current set up for now (centrifugal advance only) and get the Holley 1940 non-SCV rebuilt and install it at my leisure. (I confirmed the Holley is a non-SCV type).

Cheers :beer:
-Roland
 
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