freeze plugs

rustywagon

Well-known member
Hi guys,
I am about to replace all gaskets and freeze plugs, some are "dripping". There are different sets of plugs online, could you link correct one.... Also one plug is at back of engine, someone here recommended opening fire wall and replacing from driver side. Does anyone know approx. location of that plug, so I can out as little as possible.
Do you put some sealant over plugs? Do you have trick to put them in? I replaced few when I purchased the car 5 years ago, but I had hard time.... 66 station wagon 3.3L Thank you. Michal
 
There is one in the back of the head, not sure if there is one in the bellhousing area or not in your application. You need to use sealer on them, clean out the freeze plug bore first before reinstalling them. It's much easier with the engine out or at least pulled loose from the mounts to gain access to the rear of the engine.
 
&/or wida mirror
 
Michel, its time to pull the engine. If it leaks all over you may as well overhaul it.
 
Can't do overhaul, my other car broke down, towed it to junkyard. Fairlane is my daily driver to work, need quick fix. Is there any remedy, blue devil leak stop etc?
 
rustywagon":3hwms47f said:
Can't do overhaul, my other car broke down, towed it to junkyard. Fairlane is my daily driver to work, need quick fix. Is there any remedy, blue devil leak stop etc?
If you want a ghetto fix it now kinda thing, go that route. And/or try applying sealant to the outer rings of the freeze plugs. If that don't work, start knocking them out and replacing them one at a time. Save the last one to be the one in the back. Then do that whevener you have decent free time.
 
rustywagon":1yhhs2gs said:
Can't do overhaul, my other car broke down, towed it to junkyard. Fairlane is my daily driver to work, need quick fix. Is there any remedy, blue devil leak stop etc?
Sealer is unlikely to work for long, if at all. It will cause cooling system problems.

To install metal freeze plugs, you need good access to the plug, something to drive them in, and room to swing a hammer. I use red loctite on metal freeze plugs, permetex aviation sealer works ok too.

The alternative for the plugs that are leaking is the rubber expansion style. They are readily availible at auto parts stores. These go in dry (if sealer is used, they will pop out). If you can remove the leaking plug, just clean the hole, insert the rubber plug and tighten the nut. I wouldn’t replace all the plugs in the engine with rubber, but to replace the leaking ones, it will get you by.

673CDB7C-E5A3-4256-837C-CC83D84A12AD.jpeg
 
I am replacing all gaskets, incl. head, also putting in new water pump. What gaskets should I use with sealant with and what without. I believe head gasket goes in without....
 
It can depend on the type of gasket. Most of the current composition head gaskets like FelPro or Victor etc. you wouldn't use a sealer. Paper or cork type used for timing cover or oil pan yes. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
I am gathering all parts and gaskets I need.
I ordered set of gaskets, incl. head gasket.
Should I use it, or something better is recommended?
I've done it before - followed the bolt/tightening pattern I found in manual.
Any advice on installation/type of head gasket?
Thank you, Michal
 
rustywagon":qfz0c1f2 said:
...Any advice on installation/type of head gasket?
Thank you, Michal
R U in USA?
as mentioned: Fel-pro'n Victor R some brands. The 2nd has a smaller 'crush' so allows more deep a machining pass when cleaning up.
Coupla guys discussing a Remflex on the thread w/the name "head gasket' on this forum's index page. Click on "in-line performance' at the topa dis page, scan dwn to that topic, click'n read...
 
yes I am in US. I ordered Felpro gasket set from Partsgeek, Part Number: 15124-05616708.
I have no problem to use better head gasket if recommended. Please, do.

I have front Wildwood disc brakes with original single master cylinder (no power assist). One line ruptured and I ended up with brake pedal in fire wall without slowing down... I managed to stop. I guess I need dual cylinder, any recommendations?

Thank you, Michal
 
rustywagon":mg3sfvfd said:
...I have no problem to use better head gasket if recommended. Please, do...
I guess I need dual cylinder, any recommendations?...
U got the gasket, it will B fine - millions R. If U want (in 200,ooo mi) try the Remiflex...
If U have not gotten the exhaust gasket try the Remiflex, They R pretty nice frm what i hear. I will use the better of the 2 frm VI just cuz I have it now.

Yes a dual is good. I gota Mark XVIIIIIII or some such thing ('85 Lincoln). I got it due to it being frm a rig w/disc frnt AND knew the bolt up holes were the same as those already on my fire wall. Forgot abt the rod/break peddle match up but it wuz fine ('70 mod). No need to make any major changes/mods. I don''t want power, I may go to the hydroboost at some point. Gotta get it back on the rd 1st...
 
another funny episode - i was checking brakes after I bled the system. Tried to park, put it in reverse. There was clunk sound and car died. It wouldn't start and sounded different when starter was turning engine. I was able to turn the fan blade with one hand, pushed car in all gears. I guess something broke in transmission, safety switch is not lined up, it wouldn't start. What could of happened?
 
"... magic in putting in head gasket..."
the "Handbook" has a prudy good guide. Got an edition?
I used studs, (so hada guide) set gasket on there, lowered head. 3 'rounds' of tq frm center out (40, 60, 80 ft lbs).
I think head spec is either 70 or 75 ft lbs. Have not run it yet but will ck after a heat cycle or 2.

2nd Q: U got a C4?
U put it in? How did it run B4?
As prt of drive line ck other prts - U-joints, rear end. Pull dwn C4 inspection plate. shine lght up in there, look for loose bots? Is it just the linkage?
 
Back
Top