Ford 200 Dyno Results

gus91326

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
All:
I finally decided to take my car to a tuner and get it dyno'd. I have a fitech and was able to get it 85-90% there but had some driveability issues that I wanted to get resolved. I went to Church Auto Tune in Long Beach CA as they came recommended as good with EFI systems. I was there for 3 hours on Saturday and the results after burning 1/2 tank of gas on just dyno pulls came to:
181.22 RWHP@5300 RPM
206.49 RWTQ@4000 RPM

If you apply the 15% drive line losses estimate, the engine is making in line with some of the other engines of similar spec out there. All in all, it was money well-spent. It drives so much nicer and pulls strongly from 2k on up. I played it conservative on the RPM limit, so next time I may go to 6k or just past.

For those wondering what the setup is:
Engine/Transmission
• 1982 200 Block
• .40 over with flat top pistons
• Stock 1965 rods/crank
• 10:1 compression
• Classic Inlines aluminum head
• Classic Inlines 4 barrel intake
• Fitech Go Street fuel injection
• Clay Smith 264/274 cam
• 6 into 1 header with 2.5” exhaust
 
Pretty impressive output, the torque number looks good. Looks like you are in stock 289 territory? Is that with a C4?
 
Dang, you got some eye opening #s.
You gotta be happy with that.
Almost 1 HP/ CI.
At the rear wheels
So what about distributor advance. Whatcha got there?
What gas do you run?
I'm thinkin' high octane and more advance!
Go for it!!!!!!
Good luck
 
Absolutely! I have one of Bill’s distributors. Running 91 octane for the dyno run. If you factor in driveline losses I’m happy with what the engines doing. There’s a Hot Rod article where they made 220 hp on an engine stand spinning it to 6200. At 15% driveline loss I’m doing 208 hp.
 
Are you running a stock fan? You also lose a few ponies running the fan. May consider electric if that’s if your wheelhouse to gain a few more back.

Awesome numbers! How did you get to your 10:1 ratio? I’m about to embark on a near identical build (200, CI head, etc).

What pistons, combustion chamber size?
 
Hi, I got a distributor from Bill too.
When you max out an engine you must have good advice on total ignition timing for maximum HP and prevent pre-ignition.
At high rpm you can't hear pinging.
If you will always buy premium gas or higher octane race fuel you can get by with more timing.
For example, on my friends Saturday night stock car ( Small block @#$_), we use a locked distributor (no advance) at 38* .
Our street distributors run mechanical advance which is RPM dependant, and vacuum advance, for economy..
So for performance the important # is total advance, usually after @3000 RPM.
Good luck
 
Very good numbers! I figure I would have been there are a bit higher with my last build. But the rings did not seal since the bores were .0045 to much. Plus a cracked piston. I made 165 RWHP and 185 RWTQ.
 
Great results! Good work on bringing it to a professional shop for the final tune. EFI is tricky with all those settings

Are you going to Fab Fords?
 
Matt: Yep- I have an electric fan. I used 2.3 HSE cast flat top pistons (from the Falcon handbook). I can't remember what number the combustion chamber size is- my builder knows all that.

Brian: I remember when you told me- that must have been a bummer.

Marco: Yep- I plan on going!
 
gus91326":1vvwmbir said:
Matt: Yep- I have an electric fan. I used 2.3 HSE cast flat top pistons (from the Falcon handbook). I can't remember what number the combustion chamber size is- my builder knows all that.

Brian: I remember when you told me- that must have been a bummer.

Marco: Yep- I plan on going!


Good stuff! Gives me hope for my 200. What fan and radiator are you using? Shroud?
 
Matthew68":1c6qqmnc said:
gus91326":1c6qqmnc said:
Matt: Yep- I have an electric fan. I used 2.3 HSE cast flat top pistons (from the Falcon handbook). I can't remember what number the combustion chamber size is- my builder knows all that.

Brian: I remember when you told me- that must have been a bummer.

Marco: Yep- I plan on going!


Good stuff! Gives me hope for my 200. What fan and radiator are you using? Shroud?

I used a Champion Alu v8 Mustang radiator.

The fan I used is from SPAL:
https://the-fan-man.com/product/16-spal ... -fan-s400/

Fan Man has some low profile brackets so the fan is mounted direct to the radiator with no shroud. I drive in LA traffic and it keeps the engine cool with no overheating. This setup keeps about 3/8" of clearance between the fan and the water pump.
 
gus91326":3n1x1txt said:
Matthew68":3n1x1txt said:
gus91326":3n1x1txt said:
Matt: Yep- I have an electric fan. I used 2.3 HSE cast flat top pistons (from the Falcon handbook). I can't remember what number the combustion chamber size is- my builder knows all that.

Brian: I remember when you told me- that must have been a bummer.

Marco: Yep- I plan on going!


Good stuff! Gives me hope for my 200. What fan and radiator are you using? Shroud?

I used a Champion Alu v8 Mustang radiator.

The fan I used is from SPAL:
https://the-fan-man.com/product/16-spal ... -fan-s400/

Fan Man has some low profile brackets so the fan is mounted direct to the radiator with no shroud. I drive in LA traffic and it keeps the engine cool with no overheating. This setup keeps about 3/8" of clearance between the fan and the water pump.

Awesome - thanks! I'm looking at the champion EC339. Do you know which one you got? With such little clearance, not much wiggle room.
https://www.championradiators.com/2-row ... -1967-1970
 
Gus, your engine really showed its grunt on the rollers.
Great performance in not one thing, but a combo or correct ignition, fuel ,exhaust & short block build.
With a solid lifter camshaft with faster rate of lift, plus more lift there is a lot more potential. Bill
 
Matt- thats the radiator i have. Works great.

Bill- I agree! Looking at a possible cam change in the future. I’ll hit you up for some advice.
 
Gus, i highly recommend the Spectre valve cover breather cap to eliminate excessive crankcase pressure.
Excessive pressure can cause oil leakage & over oiling the distributor causing oil to collect inside the distributor.
By the way i have one HEI left & 2 DS11's for sale. If you need a distributor sale ends April 1'st.
I do not plan to order anymore HEI's till June.
 
Extensive dynomometer tests from:-

1. United Kingdom (Aston Martin, Lagonda, and Tickfords data from June 1976 to late 2000 when the Newport Pagnell dyno was decomissioned and David Vizard who used the Hale formula correction from 1/4 mile to wheel hp),

2. Australia (Four sources.Wheels Magazine, Tickfords Ford Australia' s tuning wing that used the English Midlands dyno to cross check, and Chevy Offroad & Marines Sam Blumstien, who works in with USA cam and EFi suppliers, and GM's HDT wing, who had the factory SAE net and DIN net figures cross checked)


and

3.the USA on rear drive intermediate size cars. The USA links I've posted before.


They show a T5 or ZF 5 speed and anything from a 7 to 9 inch axle with 175 to 285's tires averages a factor of 1.264. In very few situations does it drop to 1.14...I think 80Stang's Fox body 3.3 Mustang was tested at 1.14 loss factor, but that was a flash reading in a cold climate.

Based on all that historic info, your flywheel SAE Net hp is 231 hp at 5300 rpm and a very good 260 lb-ft at 4000 rpm.

Compared to a factory flywheel SAE ratings of the very strong 1985 4V HO or 1986 SEFi 5.0 Mustang, thats up on power and IIRC equal on torque. These were factory low 15 second flat cars, sometimes 14.5s one up.

Nice company to be in when a 40 thou over 3.3 is missing two cylinders and 97.74 cubic inches.

The work Elmo from GM did on gas flowing that Classic In lines designed ports and combustion chamber combination has payed off with your cam EFi and exhaust combination :wow:
 
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