Autolite 1100 carb help needed

If it’s warm outside, would the choke open up on its own? I just came out here, took the breather off and it’s wide open.


ETA never mind. Back to square run. Starts, runs for a bit, dies.
 
Yes the choke can open some in warmer weather the bimetallic spring is effected by heat and yours being electric is also controlled voltage too. Also until the throdle is opened to allow the choke to reset to the high point on the fast idle cam it can stay open. But its hard for me to speculate on all this without seeing some more detailed pictures of the choke. With the air cleaner off and it running do you see excessive fuel going down the carb Venturi? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
What does "excessive fuel" look like?

Right now, it's still doing the same thing. Starts, runs, dies. Won't restart for a little bit.

So the choke just changes the amount of air into the carb, not fuel? I noticed now that it's in the 70's, the choke is all the way open when the car is cold.

But like I said, it fires right up now, runs for like two minutes, then dies.

People have told me to check for a stuck float or something like that?
 
Excessive fuel looks like fuel running out of the vent tube and dumping down the carb's Venturi. No amount of raw fuel should ever be coming out of that vent tube! At curb idle RPM there should only be a small amount of atomized fuel to mix in with the air that's going down the carb's Venturi. From your discription but without actual seeing it in person or by video, this sounds like exactly what is happening with your engine, its flooding out. This excessive amount of fuel (flooding) then wets down the plugs and the engines cylinders and it can not be easily ignited. This is why your engine only runs for a short amount of time then quits and then can't be restarted, until all that raw fuel has been evaporated. If you pull the spark plugs after it shuts off I would bet that you will see them wet with fuel.

Yes a stuck float, or a float that has been set to high (causeing a high wet fuel level), a bad float needle and seat assembly, or also a bad float, these are all things that can cause this. If you look at my above posts this is what I said to look for in a too high of a wet fuel level and then gave you all the technical info on how to diagnose and check these out. You stated that your carb was worked on along with the install of the new electric choke. It's also why I asked you if after all that carb work was performed did the car ever run and drive as it should? Or did you have these very same results of it only running for a short time and then quitting and having to wait to be able to restart it?

Yes the choke changes the amount of air flow through the carb's Venturi which also causes an enrichment of the fuel being delivered, plus it raises the idle RPM by the fast idle cam too, so that the engine can warm up quickly and the car start to be driven sooner. I also asked if the choke worked correctly when it's cold closeing and the fast idle linkage going on to the high point raising the ldle RPM to 1200 to 1500 RPM then the blade opening up all the way when the engine is at operating temperature? You say it's open all the way at 70 degrees before the engine is started my best guess without seeing your carb in person is that the choke isn't adjusted correctly and it isn't even a factor in the probable flooding of the engine. But again this this only an educated guess on my part without seeing any evidence of how the carb is working. In reality though at air temperatures of 70 degrees and higher the need for a choke is also greatly deminished.

Carb's are a combination of several sub systems and parts that all need to work together, they also require accurate adjustments to accomplish this. Many novice car hobbyists can have a difficult time understanding how these carb's work, but the Autolite 1100 is about as simple as it gets and so it is a good one to learn about how carb's function. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
While you are adjusting everything, you might want to adjust the clearance on the Pertronix module. There is supposed to be a .030 gap between the pertronix module and the magnet collar. In your picture it looks like the module is riding on the collar and being ground away. You might actually want to take that module off and check it out to make sure the electronics haven't been damaged.
 
I also wonder if the OP ever made any more progress on fixing that Mustang? There haven't been any more posts after their April 13th one. :nod: (y)
 
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