Autolite 1100 carb help needed

Alajones

Alajones

New member
So my carb is running rich. Right now it'll start, run for a minute or so, then die. And it won't restart afterwards.

It's a 67 200 I believe.

I've been on the Vintage 6 Facebook group and been told to adjust idle screw and floats and stuff. But I really have no idea how to do all that. And searching online hasn't really helped.

It's got an electric choke from Vintage Inlines, which I have adjusted according to given instructions and the youtube video I watched. The current carb has less than 500 miles on it.

Here is the sparkplug (they've been replaced)
JDTw7uo.jpg


So here is my carb. I noticed it is missing the spark advance vacuum control valve (Blue 1) and the Vent rod. Does it need these things?
Also, what are these three screws? Blue 2, Black 1 and Black 2
Thank you for your help.

xaPrW4k.jpg

KkKzrXx.jpg

YuBgrPq.jpg
 
What distributor are you running??
 
Here's my distributor. I'm not sure what "kind" it is.

It has had the electric ignition ignitor installed to replace the points.


kgPGE4x.jpg

8RcHjnF.jpg

vF9Xfxy.jpg
 
Howdy Jones:

I couldn't quite tell from the photo but it appears the the vent rod hole is plugged and you don't need it the brass, angled vent tube in the top of the carb will adequately vent the fuel bowl.

IT appears that your Autolite 1100 does not have a spark control valve which is an indication that it is for a '68 & '69 200 engine that will have a distributor with centrifugal and vacuum advance. The stock '67 200 distributor is a Load-o-Matic type with a load sensitive vacuum signal. Your carb, best I can tell is not designed to be used with your distributor.

And, the '68 & '69 Autolite 1100s are down rated in CFM- 150 cfm as compared to 185 cfm with a '67 carb. Do you still have the original Autolite carb? If so compare to your new, rebuilt carb.

Blue #1 is where the SCV (Spark Control Valve) goes on earlier 1100 carbs. Blue #2 is the low speed air screw for adjusting idle quality.

Black #2 is the choke fast idle cam adjusting screw. Hard to tell but black #1 may be the base idle setting screw.

Best I can help you at this point. Good luck.

Adios, David
 
I do not have the original carb. The vent rod hole is plugged.

So what’s my next step? Replace the distributor? Get a spark advance for the carb?

BTW, I own the Falcon Six handbook. It’s an honor.
 
First step is to ID the Distribitor you have pull the cap so we can see inside. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
:beer: Very good you have the late style point Distribitor 1967 Calif or 1968 to 74 Fed. these are the best of the Ford point type units, with the addition of the Pertronix makes for a decent ignition. So this Distribitor is the right match for the Autolite 1100 you have now with out the SCV. Could stand a little cleaning inside. Check to see if there is any excessive Distribitor shaft looseness / slop. By feel, try pushing the shaft towards the engine and pulling it back towards you. Do you notice any slop? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
snug as a bug

So you are saying I have the correct carb/distributor combo and I don't need a vent rod or spark control valve on the carb.
 
First the carb adjustments is the very last step of a good tune up done in this order. You did state a 1967 year and the car model as a Mustang, I am guessing that it is all stock or does it have has some mods? So here are some of the base timing settings will be general info customized to your combo of parts. Also this assumes that the engine is in good operating condistion i.e. a compression test shows that all the cylinders are of equal compression within about 10% of each other.

Tune up Settings in order of setting them

With a Pertronix Ignitor
1. Spark plug gap is set to .044 to .045

2. There is no dewel setting. Check voltage you have going to coil and the Ignitor.

3. Factory Base timing is set to aprox. 6 BTDC for manual trans or 12 degrees BTDC for an auto trans. I usally set them from 10 to 14 degrees depending on locale conditions i.e. Alt., Tempature, fuel grade, etc. If your car happens to have Calif emissions that changes some of the settings too.

4. With the engine now warmed up to operating temp and check that the choke is now fully open. Set idle mixture to lean best idle. This is done by setting mixture screw to the highest Idle RPM using a Tach / Dwell meter and then you would turn the mixture screw in a 1/4 turn (leaner). These above settings (and also next below) should be done with the Air Cleaner installed as when the car is operated / driven.

5. Last set the Curb idle to 500 to 575 RPM for manual trans, 550 to 600 RPM for auto trans in drive with parking brake set, this will usually be 50 to 100 RPM higher when trans is in Neutral or Park.

The order of the settings can make a differance to the final tune this is why the carb settings are the very last thing. Are you confident that your carb is in good condition and that the float level is set correctly? Float level is a critical setting in the richness of the engines tune, other things that affect this is is the power valve opperation, Vaccum leaks, PCV used that's of an incorrect application or is not operating correctly. Hope that is of some help. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Alajones":1a8thmuy said:
snug as a bug

So you are saying I have the correct carb/distributor combo and I don't need a vent rod or spark control valve on the carb.
Click to expand...

:beer: That's excellent news. Yes they are a good match and should work well together. :nod: (y)
 
So now looking at a few of your statements I am focusing on the possable causes of your engine running Rich.

1. First is that the float level is set to high causing it to flood.

2. Could be be a Vacuum leak or leaks.

3. Bad or incorrect PCV valve.

4. Power valve not operating correctly.

Below are all the video's showing how to rebuild the Autolite 1100 carb and doing all it's settings plus trouble shouting problems. First check out some the appropriate carb videos below to see if you want to tackle the job. It's not that hard to pull the carb top off on the vechical but if your more comfortable doing it off the car then pull the carb. Good luck (y) :nod:

Complete set of Autolite 1100 Carb rebuild, adjustments, and also carb trouble shooting, video's

Autolite 1100 Part 1 Carb Teardown
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eAirfexkMVY

Testing a Brass Float Assembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wPGC5hp-RVg

Autolite 1100 Carb Rebuild Part 2 Float Assembly, Needle and Seat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgc21iYKyY

Autolite 1100 Carb Part 3 Rebuild of the Float Bowl Assembly
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=96wm8kcTAYI

Autolite 1100 Carb Check ball placement
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Autolite 1100 Carb Power Valve Repair
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R8XilvWkP3k

Autolite 1100 Idle Circuit
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M_HxIZTi6Do

Autolite 1100 Carb Power Valve
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i2eWyUbCtJU

Autolite 1100 Carb Accelerator Pump and How it Works
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1yp6SABzVG8

Autolite 1100 Premium Carb Kit Parts PK111
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BMMwVjVKbbg

Autolite 1100 Carb Kit parts
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ikZs5Nd9joE

Autolite 1100 Carb Kit 436
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n8L2RfnG_90

Autolite 1100 Carb Flooding and Trouble Shooting
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QrvsdDucIXE

Autolite 1100 Carb On Bench settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fVbZ1W1oNxA

Autolite 1100 Carb Settings
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autolit ... p_416.html

Autolite 1100 Carb Vent Rod Adjustment
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uiOG__H2BM8

Autolite 1100 Carb Choke Thermostat
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A9Tkb_hTlRI

Autolite 1100 Carb Choke settings
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaDyq137YGI

Autolite 1100 Electric Choke conversion kit available from V.I.
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -choke-kit

New Universal Replacement Carb (these are available from V.I.) for the Autolite 1100
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UFRPh_TsluQ
 
I appreciate all that. I'll get on it.

Right now I can't even get it to start.

The engine should be in great shape. I had guys working on it for like a year and the top end was rebuilt entirely, the cam was replaced, the carb and distributor were replaced. They did compression checks and all that, as well as getting rid of the points and adding the electronic ignition and electric choke.

That's been a couple of years but I bet I haven't driven it 250 miles since then. I only drive it once every couple of weeks.

So I'm seriously looking at rebuilding a hardly used carb? Do I just need to chunk the electric choke? Is that messing everything up?
 
Alajones":3rx1zsyt said:
I appreciate all that. I'll get on it.

Right now I can't even get it to start.

The engine should be in great shape. I had guys working on it for like a year and the top end was rebuilt entirely, the cam was replaced, the carb and distributor were replaced. They did compression checks and all that, as well as getting rid of the points and adding the electronic ignition and electric choke.

That's been a couple of years but I bet I haven't driven it 250 miles since then. I only drive it once every couple of weeks.

So I'm seriously looking at rebuilding a hardly used carb? Do I just need to chunk the electric choke? Is that messing everything up?
Click to expand...

Probably not nessisary to rebuild the carb, I am only talking about checking that the wet fuel level is set right. This can even be done with the carb still bolted on the engine. I can't answer you on the electric choke without seeing some more good detailed pictures of it, my best guess is that no it shouldn't be messing it up, if it was installed and adjusted correctly. The two pictures show the choke blade is slightly closed is this with the engine cold or was it run some and warmed up? So after all the work you had done on the car did it run good before? Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
Yes. Pulled and cleaned tank. New pump, new lines all the way to the carb.

So I should set the choke to where it is totally open when cold?
 
That is great, a clean fuel system up to carb us then checked off the list. The choke blade should be closed when the engine is cold, exception is in hot summer type weather were it would be slightly open as in your above picture. First you need to open the throdle to see if the choke will set itself on the fast idel cam idex Mark. If it dose the choke blade should also close tighter. I usally set the idex mark of the choke cover to 1 or 2 Rich as a base setting ths will be determined by your local area temperature. Could you take some more pictures showing all the choke parts? After it's running the fast idel speed would be set (the black circled #2 screw in above picture) so that it was ideling at 1200 to 1500 rpm. Lastly after the engine has warmed up to operating tempature the choke blade should be fully open and the fast idel cam should move off the index to the low notch so the carb can run at normal idle RPM (curb idle as in #5 of the above tune up specs). Good luck (y) :nod:
 
I missed a question you had earlier. That picture of the choke slightly open was when it was cold.

It’s starts now.

So how can I tell if it’s running rich?
 
:beer: congrats that's great that you got it to run. Did you run it long enough to get it warmed up good? If so did the choke open up fully? Ie the choke blade standing straight up. Once you can verify that the choke is operating correctly we can move on to the next thing. Some ways you can check if its runing very rich is it having a very sooty black exhaust. First changing out the plugs to a fresh set then driving the car about 200 to 500 miles, then pull out the plugs and check the color. The best one though to find out if it's too rich would be to use an exhaust gas analyzer. Also of some importance now would to drive it and note how it behaves. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top