Mild crank walk due to thrust bearing wear is an auto to manual problem. There is not as much give in neoprene. Starting with automatic transmissions with the one peice AOD, Ford then quickly went to center hole punch totally enclosed manual Mazda transmissions because of crank weepage and Noise Vibration and Harshness reduction. Many modern cars have leaks, you just don't see them.
Simonsalz and S-man had the same issue. M_S, for your info:-
https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t ... 85#p605685
Simonsalz":4upxjb4h said:
So I'm new to this site, so I apologize for any mistakes I make, but I have a ford 200 online six (in my 1965 mustang with a 3 speed) and it was missing and running rough so I decided I'd rebuild it. I've taken so much time measuring clearances all the way to cleaning and prepping the block. Long story short I've replaced EVERYTHING besides the rods(checked and all by machine shop, block (bored .30 over and checked), and the head (valve job and checked for cracks). I still have a very rough idle and like its missing but all the wires are showing no evidence of a miss (I've tested for it) and I'm not sure what to do because I've dumped a lot of money into rebuilding this engine with no luck, just for it to run the same way as it did before I rebuilt it
Any info/help would be greatly appreciated
If the car was born manual stick shift 2.77 or 3.03, then a new auto needs shorter bolts with a proper sealer. If its still manual, then you must use just the right size bolts. You can use any number of other bolts, but they have to be the right shank depth.
The 144-170-200 has a 3.375" nominal crank flange, the 250 (and 221-255-26-289-302-351K-M-C-400 Fords) about 3.75"
The quality of a seal is based on its trimmed to finish size, and the macrotexture of the crank flange, it has to retain some boundary layer oil to seal. New multigrades can cause problems, but the basic issue is how the neoprene is composed and sized, and a rope seal is far more forgiving of errors than the newer seals.
Rope seals have a host of nasty issues. They make a car idle bad (worse than stock, which means a poor idling vehicle then gets a horriably psychotic athmatic horse cylcic stutter), they consume power, cause poor fuel economy, have a long, long run in time and a log head I6 is a dog for bad idle anyway, especially Load-O-matic and old SCV carb. The reason is that our six cylinders don't get fed the same air fuel, and don't get a sufficently adequate spark. When the timing gear is worn, the idle timing drifts. Other issues are that our crankshafts don't have 12 counterweights, flywheels or flexplates can be out of true, and the crank to trans centers are often out of true from factory.
Bill used to be a Lexus dealer, he's helped me out with sensors, Toyoda service and maintenance, and the modern thread sealer he recommends is fine.
Fords movement to neoprene is a good one, and its based on very sound mass production needs to save gas, reduce emissions and ensure when its 50000 mile tested, its still leak free and making good power. You should go right back to a pinned rope seal anytime your still get a leak after sealing the six flywheel or flexplate bolts, and be very carefull to use the OEM bolts for you flywheel or flexplate.
Asbestos is a bad word in many circles, its cancer free as a substance, but it forms elongated longitudinal shearing serpintine like fibres when it grows in the earth in its natural state, but when oiled and preped and not dried back, its never going to cause a health issue.
My school teacher died of asbestosis, and I've been exposed to it, but have done asbestos removal for many years with safety apperatus.
Its
Soul on a roll, but you treat it like soap on a rope
Cause the beats and the lines are so dope....
It does the job.