Ford 200 CI Front Seal Removal and Installation

FordGolfer7

New member
I am looking for information on how to change the front main seal on a 1966 200 CI engine in a Ranchero. I have replaced the rear seal, the front is giving me fits. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. A blown up diagram of the 200 would be greatly appreciated.
 
You have to remove the timing cover. The seal installs from the inside.
 
/OR/
here's a partial seal for timing & frnt main, 2 co.s:
Mahle JV820



Fel-Pro TCS130591

Frnt main is the 1/2 round, timing the "J"...
EDIT:
hummm, niether pic came thru
 
Are you sure it's the seal and not coming from the bolt? I didn't put rtv under the washer when I originally installed my balancer and it would fling oil at higher rpm's. Pulled the bolt and put rtv under the washer solved it.
 
Econoline":16hoodrw said:
Are you sure it's the seal and not coming from the bolt? I didn't put rtv under the washer when I originally installed my balancer and it would fling oil at higher rpm's. Pulled the bolt and put rtv under the washer solved it.
I got the same 66 200 in my car and i didnt have to put any sealant in the harmonic bolt. My front main was shot and was dumping everywhere. replaced it and haven't had an issue since
 
clean it up, don't run it, watch a few days for the leak?
No sign? disconnect fan belt (no fan) run & watch?
That may locate exact area...

AutoZone hasa exploded diagram on-line (store or home) "DataGen" or some such name...
 
The oil runs the keyway and if it can seap around the washer it will fling oil.
 
Hi, get a Chilton's manual and a harmonic balancer puller.
You will also need the gasket and seal for the timing chain cover.
After you get the cover off, check the slack in the timing chain.
Good luck
 
If you manage this, please post photos.

People say you can pull the timing cover without dropping the pan. Well yeah, I guess you can pull the cover, but I want to see anyone put it back on without dropping the pan.

I don't see anyway of re-sealing the oil pan gasket without dropping the pan.
 
I thank everyone for the information. I am in the process of removing the timing chain cover now. I plan on replacing the timing chain while I am at this stage. I do hope the response about dropping the oil pan is not correct. Just replaced the rear seal and reinstalled the pan. I'll post the results when I get the project completed. One thing, when I am removing the bolts holding the timing gear cover, some of the bolts have been silicon-ed, is this just precautionary or is it necessary?
 
observe 4 cracks, missing gaskets, over sized bolt hole'n incorrect/damaged bolts.
"No" silicone or other snot on the bolts - is not regular. Some1 musta put in extra
energy due to leak?
Ck out the gasket series I posted as they R "repair sets" 4 just what U R doing (tryin
to save the oil pan gasket, do a frnt seal only, etc).HTH
 
I would lower the pan, you don't have to drop it, but it's going to need to be dropped some to replace the timing cover seal.
 
X2 yes it's will be a little easier if you loosen up the pan bolts enough so the front of the oil pan drops about 1/4 inch or so. One other thing to check is the condition of the seal surface on the damper some times a hard seal can wear a grove in them, there are seal saver rings to fix that problem. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
I got away with not having to drop the pan any. I was worried i had to but ended up not. But i did put that old indian permatex sealant on both the pan and timing cover surfaces. I probably shouldn't have done the timing cover side but i didn't want to risk it leaking.
 
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