Looking for mentors -new ‘65 200ci owner

Hey guys, my name is miles. I like in the Kansas City mo area and bought a 65 mustang with a i6 200 a year ago. Let me preface by saying, I now very very little about cars in general but I’m looking to learn. I got some hands on working on it but still having issues (maybe vapor locking??) and I really want to upgrade the engine and plan it out while I learn. If anyone wants to chat and help a noob out let me know!
 

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I'm bettin dat rig'll B ur mentor.

W E L C O M E !!!
to the forum (best on the site) !
Here's hopin ur stay will B pleasant and productive.
Lotta good guys on here, helpful & knowledgable. Stick around'n you'll C which R which.
Even some humor and (my fav, U already got my attention for such is) pic !
New to mechanics is fine and so is to these specific models. To get up to speed (I hada read just to know what Qs to ask) is The Ford Six Performance Handbook. Many get it from Matt at vintage inlined dot com (25$?). While waiting for delivery peruse the (Classic Inlines) tech archive @ above crossed screwdriver/wrench.
After gettin 'the Handbook' my suggestion is "to ID whaja got". After 54 yrs of multiple owners U can't trust that all parts R '65 stang. At least ID the head, block, rear end, ingit system (dizzy, coil, etc),carb and other upgradable prts. The handbook shows engine, transmis components. Some times pretty subtle differences but performance effects (pep'n MPGs).

If U have the willingness & patience - we got the knowledge.
Think ur into maintenance only? daily driver? performance improvements? machining?
We can even recommend tools to acquire for each if interested.
 
Hi, nice looking Mustang.
X2 on the Ford falcon performance handbook.
Also get a Chilton's manual for your car.
Learn about what you have and how to get the most out of it.
Be more specific about the problem.
Why do you think you have vapor lock?
Do you have hard starting issues? That could be vapor lock.
Post some pictures of the engine with the air cleaner off.
Good luck
 
Great looking 1965 Mustang and welcome to the Ford Six Forums Spandlem. Well your absolutely in the right place to learn about these engines and excellent cars, with many willing people to help you too. Good luck with the Mustang (y) :nod:
 
Miles, i like your pride & joy.
If you have vapor lock, i deleted my mechanical fuel pump & installed an electric unit.
If you have questions on any distributor issues just give a shout. Bill
 
Yes that is a clean looking Mustang congratulations! Is it an automatic? Does it drive well besides the vapor lock symptom? Definitely get the Falcon Handbook it is a valuable resource as you will see. What are your performance goals?
 
2morrow isa week, may B gone. (Hereza check...

Y 'vapor lock' ? Start'n die won't restart for 10 min? What R the symptoms? conditions? One duz beddah when the Q is not answered but conditions delineated. What do U see, smell, hear, feel? What happens 1st, 2nd, 3rd? What have U tried so far? Etc :nod:
 
Ok sorry guys, been a busy week. So I have the falcon book on the 200’s and am currently reading it. First, my problem

While driving (after running for about 10-15 min) anytime I stay at speeds greater than 50mph the engine gasps then dies. Have to sit and wait 5-10 min then it always fires back up. This will happen infrequently at first then by the end of a cruise I’m limping home at 20-30mph with it dying every 3-5min. Thoughts?


So I’ve been reading about the aluminum head/intake kits, Aussie 200 heads, swapping out for a v8, etc and I’ve come up with a plan but don’t know how to implement it. I want to get the Offenhauser Triple carb adaptor. I have bought another 65 200 i6 to do this build on so I can drive it while I build the new engine (provided I figure out why it’s dying). So I’d like to get some more hp out of it and want it to sound better. Not gonna be drag stripping haha. Think of it as a beach bod, don’t need the functionality as much as I want it to look/sound good. So Tripple carbs, better cam (no idea what tho as I’m still learning), work the heads over or maybe get a 250 head(? Thoughts?), dual exhaust.... can I do this and keep drum breaks and 4lugs?

Pic is my current engine w/o air cleaner
 

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Going to the engine dying issue, are you sure the choke at the top of the carb is opening all the way?

You could also check and see with a pressure gauge if your fuel pump is keeping up with it.

I also had an issue where my filter in the fuel sending unit was completely clogged. It would work for a bit but after about 5-10 mins the car would stall and would not start for another 10 mins. I'm betting the sitting allowed the particles to float away from the filter.

I had vapor lock before and it always happened at low speeds or idle. Usually getting on the gas and going fast fixed everything.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
Sounds like a bad ignition coil or maybe a fuel delivery problem, i.e. plugged filter, sender sock ect. Bad ignition coils will often test fine on the bench but when in service as they heat up they fail to fire properly.
 
Spandlem":gvcx2y1a said:
...Thoughts?...
So I’ve been reading about the al...
No gain on the 250 head 4 ur 200 except to go w/ a '77+ for the larger log'n valves (hardened seats).
Luckly ur 200 is 1 yr past the small hole @ block enterence'n dizzy bottom, as said the DSII update is possible more easily.

If U hop up too much I'd upgrade suspension. Currently I'd also go (no improvements) discs up frnt.

More readin ta do @ above big blue box w/crossed screw driver/wrench. This 1s free tho...
 
Nothing looks cooler than the triple carbs. I think you need to be a pretty good carb tuner/mechanic.
Another good upgrade to consider is the dual reservoir master cylinder.
 
I would start by looking at your fuel filter.

Starving for fuel can result from enough sediment eventually building up in the filter so that the filter eventually clogs, and then restricts flow to the point that it will not support the engine's gasoline demand. Once the engine is shut off, the fuel pressure that pushed the sediment into the filter is removed and the sediment can leech back down the line, only to re-occur later when the pressure recreates the same condition.

Of course, it could be other things - but I would start by removing the filter and spraying some carb cleaner from the carb side to the inlet side on top of a clean rag.
 
Hi, as mentioned, your problem could be starving for gas, especially when you describe the high speed situation. Could be a weak fuel pump. The fuel pump should fill a coffee can in about 20 seconds when you remove the fuel line from the carb and crank the engine from the starter solenoid. Or carb and filter trouble. You know there is a filter on top of the fuel pump.
I would get rid of the rubber hose fuel line and make a steel line from the pump to the carb, in front of the valve cover, the way Ford did it. That would keep it away from the heater hose.
I would get it running reliably before trying major modifications. If it won't run right before the mods, it will probably run worse afterwards. Good luck
 
Welcome!

As mentioned I would go for the easy fixes first. New fuel filter and coil. See if it works out. If not then go for the fuel pump.

Remember the fuel tank has a fuel filter sock on the sender. I am not sure how long the car was sitting or if the tank was ever replaced. But if the socks gets clogged or is missing it will bring up rust or debris into the fuel line.

EDIT: I just noticed your fuel pump is an original canister type. There is also a filter in there. I would just go ahead and swap to a later 66 style fuel pump.
 
Hi, on our old cars the fuel cap vents the tank.
When it is dying out you can open the cap and maybe you will here air rushing into the gas tank. Good luck
 
X2 what BRONCO said about swapping out the rubber hose for a steel one pretty cheap replacement and looks much better.

I was experiencing similar problems to what you are talking about last summer. I put in a phelonic spacer I found on ebay and didn't have the problem since.
 
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