Hi from a new member and a question.

spacecadet

Active member
Hi everyone, I've been lurking for a little bit, wanted to finally say Hi.

I picked up a 1968 Mustang Coupe about a month ago. Since then, i've mostly done tune up work to it, new carb, ignition, hoses, some suspension, etc.

It has what I initially though was a 1968 200ci, but Ive come to learn the block(maybe the whole engine)is from 1978. While looking at photos and searching part numbers, Ive hit a wall with my vacuum lines.

4151CFCE-C567-463E-92A6-64B91F2383F1.jpeg


When I purchased the car, the distributor vacuum diaphragm had vacuum lines running from two ports. I have left it connected this way for now, you can see them in the photo. One is connected to the carb ported vacuum and one is connected to the manifold vacuum. I have yet to see this configuration in any of my research. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance! no pun intended
 
First welcome aboard. If your carb. does not have a SCV then only one vacuum line is needed. On a stock engine ported vacuum is usually the best. Disconnect the one to manifold vacuum.
Now pull the ported vacuum line off the vacuum advance & open the throttle slightly & see if you have vacuum. If so reconnect to the advance canister.
If your distributor has the dual vacuum advance, just use the ported vacuum to the outer port. Bill
 
W E L C O M E !!!
hope ur stay is enjoyable & informative.
Sounds like ur on the right path, have some experience. All ways ID what U have 1st (w/these 50 yr ol rigs).
Head, block, carb (specific model), ign system, rear gear, cam & so on. Run around for a bit. Assess, etc.
You may have accessed 'the Handbook" if not that's recommended (not just for the above) if not its suggested U order, (Matt at vintage inlines dot com) while waiting 4 delivery peruse the free 'tech archive' @ above big blue box (crossed screwdriver/wrench).
(y)
 
Howdy Spacecadet:

And welcome to The Forum. From looking at your photo and your description it appears that you have a '68- 69 distributor with vacuum and centrifugal advance. To identify what year block, head and exhaust manifold look for the casting codes on each. For the head you'll find the casting code on top of the manifold to the rear of the carb. The block casting code is located under the exhaust manifold on the side of the block. The exhaust manifold code is on the top front. It is not unusual to mix and match parts when upgrading. For example, use and newer '78 short block and head with the original '68 distributor, carb and exhaust manifold. So your first task is the ID what you have and go from there.

Bill gave you good advice on the distributor vacuum lines. But know that the '68 distributor was designed to use a carb with a ported vacuum source from the carb. What carb is on the engine? In the 68 & 69 production years FoMoCo switched from an Autolite 1100 with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to a carb with no SCV but with a ported vacuum source to match the needs of the 68 & 69 distributors.

So, your search begins. Enjoy the adventure, and Welcome to The Forum.

Adios, David
 
Thanks everyone. Thanks for the advice on the casting number locations, I couldn't for the life of me, find online, where the head number was located. I know my block is from '78, I found that number pretty easily.

It has a "Autoline" aka Autolite 1100 reman from Rockauto.

To my knowledge this carb does not have SCV and instead a ported vacuum, which I have hooked up. I'm actually waiting on a D.U.I 8) so this will all change in the near future.
 
Spackadet, thats a Fox 1980 or 81 engine like my 81 Stang had.


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... -and-games


Thats a 1980 or 81 engine with the E0 head with EGR blankoff. Block code is D8 and its high mount starter; its most likely a manual engine from factory. Rocker cover has the 1981 bracket for the AC throttle control solenoid unit.

The white tag in the front of the rocker cover gives you the engine calibration code. The stamping above the oil pressure electrical take off gives you the chassis number from the Fox body it came from.

Ford spent years fixing up the ignition and carburation and emission package on these engines. Going back to the 1968-1973 non electronic ignition with perhaps a Pertronics I or II Ignitor internal module, and a later 1940 Holley or 1100 Autolite or Motorcraft branded 1100 was the excepted way of getting an 80s engine to work without the emissions gear.

Take advice from Bill (wsa111) on this one.

Personally, I'd remove the carb and go for a dual idle jet carb like the Holley 2bbl or Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 as Ak Miller advisef back in the late 70s and early 80s.

Id personally move up to a Duraspark II ignition.

None if that early stuff flows enough air or has enough reliabilty for modern motoring. The 1100 carbs had tiny venturis, and only a couple if versions had the 1.29 venturi...the rare 1101. All 1978-83 Motorcraft 1946 and 1946 C's had 1.31 venturis and hot idle compensators as well ad other crutches to hold idle speed and improve off idle economy and power.
 
if X is correct ck the head #s. U may have the '77+ head which is a winner (we put'em on the other blocks). (VC can B changed)
:beer:

I think it's been said B4 get 'the Handbook' (frm Matt at vintage inlines). WHile waiting 4 delivery read above tech archive.

"...not...find online..."
Our bud "echo" is Y U go to the web (primarily).
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77528
 
Since you ordered a DUI you will need a full 12V to the distributor.
The latest DUI's also have an oil starvation problem on the distributor shaft. They fixed the over oiling problem to oil starvation.
It could really improve performance with a custom curve for your engine combination.
The DS11 is the best, but you need a module-MSD-6al & a MSD Blaster 2 coil.
See the for sale section of the forum for more info, such as how to hook up a relay so you get 12V to the distributor.
Your existing + coil wire can trigger a relay.
It can also trigger the MSD-6al ignition box.
Any questions just ask. Bill
 
yes, ^^^^, 2 X above...agreed, wished U cked in here 1st...many of us go several oem(s) or oem/hybrid.
Have U seen 'the Handbook' or tech archive?

"... "VC"? Valve Cover?..."
yes. Anything in a 50 y/o can B swapped out (for instance my hip) aaahahahaaa
8^ 0
 
Thanks again everyone. All good advice.

I read the tech articles on ignition/distributors and tried hunting down a DSII but I went with Davidson HEI because I put one in my '68 F250 and it never gave me trouble. So familiarity.

Maybe I'll start collecting a DSII setup and swap it out eventually. /shrug
 
glad U had luck, jealous of dat 250!
:eek:
 
Ok, confirmed. Head: E0BE-6090-BB

As for the exhaust, too much scaling, can't really make this out.
IMG-3669.JPG


Xctasy said, "The stamping above the oil pressure electrical take off gives you the chassis number from the Fox body it came from."

Is this the stamping being referred to?
IMG-3672.JPG


Also, @chad, :eek:
IMAG0607.jpg
 
spacecadet":2r29zl3h said:
Thanks again everyone. All good advice.

I read the tech articles on ignition/distributors and tried hunting down a DSII but I went with Davidson HEI because I put one in my '68 F250 and it never gave me trouble. So familiarity.

Maybe I'll start collecting a DSII setup and swap it out eventually. /shrug
Get your wallet out. If you purchased a HEI they have over oiling problems & the advance curve is way off.
If you get a junk yard DS11 that is what you get junk. If you get a Cardone reman. it was done in Mexico.
Need i say more. You have junk & are looking for junk.
 
HowdyAll:

C8 xx says it is a 1968 casting. IMHO, it is the best stock exhaust manifold. Good metal and more gusseting then earlier ones and fewer bungs, taps and bumps then later ones. If you decide to not use it, put it for sale here.

Code decoding is in the Handbook.

Adios, David
 
Welcome! But the book! VI sells it, totally worth it!
 
IMG_6375_Stamp2_DateO116YSmallCode21213EngineNoBR101037.jpg


The flat plate cast in boss beside the 2344 quality checker code had, on mine, a landing stamp 2, a date code O116Y and a part chassis CUN Number BR101037.

Post in Four Eyed Pride shows you it....of youve read it.

I love emission control...its reliability, and how much progress Ford made in making a 1963 era 200 into such a carefree engine 20 years later.
 
WoW, 5 pieces of info in that lill area...ford finally got it together,
good head on that motor too...
AND?
I C the Coast Range in the background of dat yeller truck there?
 
Down here in New Zealand, the registration info is lousy. From 1980 to 1983, Ford 3.3 engine outputs varied as the emission package and fan clutch details varied the ratings. The engine became automatic only in California in 1982, and it could be 87, 91, 97.5 or 95 depending on the fan clutch engagment, and the final transmission. 87 and 91 are the correct figures, and the emissions package varied between autos and manuals. And a lot of stick shift T4 and SROD 4 speeds were made, huge numbers, as the 1980 and 1981's lost the 137/139/140 hp 5.0 manual and auto option, and take up of the 115-119 hp 4.2 auto was less than 3%of total production in Foxes. The chances of finding a high mount blue 1980-1981 with a manual gearbox is quite high.

A little info on what your engine most likely was, SK.


My sold as "a 1983 Mustang" was in fact a 1981 model year car made in mid June 1980. :unsure:

Rego had it as 1982, but that was wrong. :oops:

In fact, engine codes could be T code for 1979 3.3's, B code for 1980-1982 3.3's, and X code for 1983's (X codes normally in in grey rocker cover paint in the Fairmont/LTD/Zephyr only, Mustangs and Capris, XR7'S and Thunderbirds lost the in line 3.3 six in 1983, with 1982 being the last year it was offered in the specialty coupes).

It took me weeks to find out the right details, and Mic at Four Eyed Pride did a huge amount of research work to reveal the codes.

Anyway.....



Four multiple breakout codes exist for Cleveland Plant #1 200 and 250 engines on the engine number pad.

Ford lists the shifts, dates, and multi codes on that pad so they don't have to scrap engines that they build and ship from Michigan. California's San Jose assembly plant was shut down as EPA and CARB played hardball with FoMoCo in 1981. Engines came fromthe North to the south at real exepense to Ford.

ENGINE%20CODE%20DETAIL.jpg


Final Date Code at top
Landing punch hardness or quality check or shift number (2)
CUN number (Partial chassis number from which the car was from,101037 = 1,037th 1981 Mustang scheduled for production at with a B code engine at the Rcode San Jose Assembly Plant hence the "BR" prefix )
2nd Date and shift code


For cylinder head, there is a date code

0F18 E0BE 6090 BB, stock on my 1981 Mustang

Head was cast on June 18, 1980
ENGINE_head_CODE_DETAIL_OF18_EOBE_6090_BB.jpg



For the engine sticker,

IJ204AA = 50 state (1), Thermactor w/ AC (J), 3.3L I6 (204), design level A, calibration & revision level A
J16 = calibrated on September 16
10º = 10º initial timing
C1-12B Cleveland Engine Plant 1 (C1), calibration number 12B
R 0 = revision number 0
S 26 = service level 26



https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=47758
xctasy":3jfieffq said:
I've been blessed with a totally stock 1982 B-code Mustang, has optional 3.3L 87hp 6-cyl with its 1-bbl Holley carb,




That's the sky blue high mount starter engine 3.3, Bordeaux C3 auto, 2.79 gears, small TRX P190/65 390 tire package. It's still LHD, and quite unlike the United Kingdom RHD conversions which had TUV/Type Aprroval Capri 2800 tail lights and reversed firewall, but it does have the specially cast pods for British/German spec Ford Granada MkII fold back mirrors and the metric speedo.

It's a 1983 rego year Japanese market export, Canadian full metric speedo with 57300 kilometers (35 590 original miles), stock California emission spec, heavy duty battery, tilt wheel, intermediate wipe, A/C.P/S

Others with the C4 are mostly low mount,


Mine is high mount starter
DSC10246-114E1BE6015FABLOCKNOTBB138toothODabout11_3C379_81.jpg]


Its magic on the road, has a peachy smooooth engine which mates gracefully with the smoooth French transmission. Its got a great ride and suspension and steering and brakes and general feel of the car are light years ahead of the 1982 Falcon. Performance is slow as the 1982 B code lost 7 hp over the 1981 versions but it keeps up with modern traffic. Same year Aussie Falcon 3.3 had 120 hp and weighed in at about 2919, not 2622 pounds. It did 18.5 seconds as a 3speed auto and 17.9 seconds as a 5-speed manual for 111 mph, but my Mustang auto takes about 20 seconds. The rare Californian spec RS Capri 3.3-speed SROD with 2.49 diff and 97.5 hp 2-bbl Holley Weber took 19 seconds to cross the 1/4 mile, and couldn't break 90 mph!

IMG_3415.jpg


IMG_3414.jpg


IMG_2623.jpg


035.jpg


014.jpg


018.jpg
 
CJ232ABGreyLowMountVersesIJ204AABlueHighMount.jpg


1982 B code CJ232AB Grey Low Mount vs 1981 B code IJ204AA Blue High Mount

High mount starter engines stayed right up till 1983 as the automatic C3 engine option, later getting an E1 BE 6015 casting code.




http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... -Fantastic
xctasy":1a8t84nm said:
The common 1981 cylinder block for high mount engines still had the original 1978 Fairmont/ Zephyr Fox platform date code. They changed the position of the dipstick that year.

1980_Fairmont_200_d8_be_6015_ge_IMG_0910.jpg


....
 
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