NOS Metal head gaskets a good option?

Found a pile of C0DE-6051C metal head gaskets on my local CL.

Based on the old tech section, these come in .015-.020 thinner than today's FelPro or Mahl HGs (~40-45 thou). I've got my LeMons 250 and a second Lemons 250 that I'm working on...was thinking the extra compression bump is a step in the right direction.

I can run the math on the static CR, but was more curious if the old-school HGs are even a good idea to run. I'd assume the newer style are more likely to seal up the inevitable imperfections on my block/head and probably be more forgiving to distortion if/when we overheat. ...but maybe the metal ones might be more durable than the cardboard-y new ones?

Dunno if anyone has any experience/recommendations?

How many miles on the engine? have you seen it apart or have a bore-a-scope? what's the mating surfaces look like? have you ever used the copper spray?
Sounds like you just wanna pull it apart to put this in?

"...cardboard-y new ones..."
I wouldn't say that myself...

I will ask: Just like the Q "Will this work in my car" - everything can B made 2 work - what R U looking for?

Be done with finding some NOS head gaskets. But if you got em, Use what you want but the 144/170 3.5" bore size is 180 thou smaller, and needs opening up by CNC for big bore 200's and 250's 3.68" bore.

If you can find them, modify them to clear the pistons, then well and good.

One easy option is dry decking with a thin custom 15 thou gasket.


Contact SCE, (see below) and get a dry deck gasket made up on a CAM. They will make it thin, and you can dry deck it if you wish. Ask them if you can organise production runs on an as is and when is basis, and you take a part charge on a $150 stock MLS gasket. In a 24hrs at LeMonz, you don't want to show a cash spend, so if you don't want to break the 500 dollar spend, fornt loading component supply with others paying can work if others front up with costs of the CNC co-ordinates.

Some of the rear major slot water holes can be epoxied if needed, and the rest O ringed with a machining tool. The Falcon Alloy Head I and II and all the later engines got the Cleveland style clasp plug relief drilled into the block. The same relief can take an O ring with a high Shore A hardness so you can clamp it to death without any issues.

Then you apply a thin steel or tin gasket CNC machined to the old pattern.

Dry decking was a real SBC/Mini A series and Ford competition move. Its an old Mini 970/1072/1098/1275 institution dating back to the old days.

The 1346 or so Boss 429's came that way from the factory in the late 60's and early 70's.



The first two pictures are the Automotive art.... the ShotGun O ringed by Willis ring and Silcast RTV were impressive.

The system works really well.

The others are recut dry deck examples.

Dow made the RTV, and the 429 Boss process might have taken a little bit of work, but compared to setting the cam piston to valve bump on a Street or Competition 426 Hemi, the 429 Boss system was sound.

Dry decking stops combustion gases leaking into the cooling system in the event of blown head gasket, and also stops coolant leaking into the bores and then into the sump. The only oil flowing through the head is that which feeds the rockers, and that hole isnt blocked off. The chances of this oil leaking into a cylinder is unheard of. Dry decking offers constant coolant temperature throughout the head and block, thus eliminating local area overheating. If a head gasket blows, it will only allow combustion gases to escape either between cylinders, or out of the engine itself.No mess when changing gasket!!!!!!!!!!! Works great for me on my 970!

Click to expand...

SCE Gaskets
(6610 7289200

Athena-SCE,
1540B North Main Street,
Mount Pleasant,
TN, 38474, US,
http://www.scegaskets.com.
https://www.scegaskets.com/

The small Ford "Metal Shim" head gaskets application sometimes cites fitting both 144/170 and 200 . Without a verified part number I would assume it's the fairly common 144/170 gasket. The 200 cyl bore application gasket is harder to find:

Truthy archive:

Ford STEEL SHIM GSKTS:
> 144-170 CID CODE-6051A CODE-6051C
>Ford 200 CID C3OZ-6051A or C5AZ-6051B
> Ford 250 CID C9DZ-6051B

The last 200 bore metal shim gasket I got on Ebay was NOS but had been folded and creased - reluctantly I returned it - still wonder if it would work ...

Currently I run a steel shim 6051 OEM gasket on C8' 170 (2.8 Maverick block with .070 milled D7 head/2bbl/headers. - At @9.5:1 scr 170 runs strong . Deck and head prep and careful 'torqueing is encouraged.

",,,Deck and head prep and ,,,"
"...dry decking..."
R U 3 ("Athena-SCE" is #2) sayin - not to copper spray it? or...what.
I understand that one must B very careful on the part (144 v 170 v 200 v 250) but not the procedure.
Last discussed I saw the tacky spray gasket recommended. Folks advising against that now?

No CF...a 144/170 gasket won't work on a 200/250.

180 thou, with a 90 thou ledge into the combustion chamber.

Hylomar coat or others like it are for people who cannot get the block and head gasket texture right. Its not needed. The texture is controlled by media blasting or wet and dry sanding, or other means.

Crap, totally forgot about the bore difference on the earlier motors. These definitely won't work.

Thanks for all the info.

MS/OP: U gotta 250?