170 keeps dropping a cylinder

afopto

New member
I gave a 1963 Comet, 170, 3 spd manual. On acceleration runs well, when shifting it drops a cylinder for about 15 seconds, longer if I really max out the previous gear. When warmed up well and driven very easy (low rpm shifts) no problems.
Thoughts appreciated. Have replaced condenser, points, coil, wires, plugs.
 
kouwell, 3rd yr ever comet (1 of ur 5 i6).
not sure what 'drop out' means, thinkin
not fuel but,,,
Is it all stock on the ignition? ie LOM/SCV?

.....Welcome.....!!!
to the site, AND best forum.

(ck out vintage vans dot com too
/OR/
http://www.fordeconolinepickup.com/specifications/
they havea FB site too)
 
Welcome aboard, there is a full explanation of the LOM-SCV in the old Classic Inlines tech section.
 
Hi, also not sure what is meant by drops a cylinder when shifting.
I would start with two tests.
First is a compression test.
Second is a simple test to see if any cylinders are missing at idle. You get the engine warmed up, and pull one spark plug wire at a time. If the idle drops and the engine shakes that shows the cylinder is doing work. If you pull the spark plug wire and the engine runs the same there is a problem with that cylinder.
On cars with automatic trannys we would put it in drive or reverse and while holding the brake down hard, push down on the gas. a good engine with make power and try to rev up. A bad engine will break up and run like crap. It is not easy to power brake an engine with a manual tranny, but I have done it with wheel chocks and slipping the clutch.
Good luck
 
"...do not understand LOM/SCV..."

a guy w/a buncha i6 might benifit frm "the Handbook" a resource many of us here use (see Matt at vintage inlines dot com). "The Ford...6 Cyl Performance Handbook". While waiting for delivery -
"...full explanation of the LOM-SCV in the old Classic Inlines tech section...."
click on the above big blue box w/crossed screw driver/wrench - Bill cites our 'tech archive'. C the subtopic of same name (lom/scv) once scrolling. Feedback system - carb/dizzy, for ign advance.

Once that concept is understood its easy 2C Y the 'DS II' is a common up grade for ign systems ('68 plus, tho). My 1st thought wuz U might havea mismatch carb/dizzy...

Since I can not B there - can U describe the 'drop out'? by what I would get thru my senses: sound, inertia, smell, see, hear (not taste on this 1 tho aahahahaaa). :roll:
 
Welcome to the Ford Six forums, here is some info on the LOD system that maybe of some help to you. First off a stock Load O Matic (LOD) Distribitor also needs to have a compatable or matching Carburator to work correctly. There are severial like the Holley 1904 & 1908, Autolite 1100, and some of the 1940 Holley replacement carb's. This system is simple and works quite well when everthing is maintained, it's suitable for a totally stock early engine and for those that want to keep their 1960 to 1966 - 7 cars or trucks all original. See below link for more info on the parts needed as well as how a LOD system works.

How Fords Stock Load O Matic Advance System Works
https://fordsix.com/ci/Loadomatic.html

How to make a replacement for a damaged or missing vacuum line for the Holley 1904 and Autlite 1100. The Holley and some other Carb's that Ford used has a threaded port that the Vacuum line screws into. On these carb's a steel line is used with a compression type fitting, these fittings are the same as is used on a natural gas water heater pilot light. This is the compression fitting that fits the threaded hole in the Holley carb (see in link below). They should be available at many hardware stores or your local Auto parts or NAPA dealer too.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-3 ... 13870000-p

This above fitting are made for use with a 1/4 inch Steel or Aluminun line if you don't care about its originality, stock Ford used the steel line. If you have the old vacuum line for use as a pattern you can use a tubing bender or by bend the line hand to match the orginal bends in the old line. If you don't have a patern you will have to free form fit it to your engine. To install thread the compression fitting into the Vaccum Port and but leave it somewhat loose next push the 1/4 inch line into the compression fitting until it bottoms out then tighten you up the compression fitting. On many of the the LOD Distribitors the same compression fitting is used to connect to the stock vacuum canister so you may need to get two for a stock system. If you are going to use or already have a later Distribitor then run the line down near the Distribitor the use a short piece of rubber hose to conect the line to the Vacuum Advance. On some other carb's Ford used a flare fitting for the vacuum line conection into the carb in these cases a brake line of the right size can work or if you have use of a flaring tool you can also make it from scratch.

Mod's to the LOD

There are a few things that can be done to make the LOD system work a little better its a good system for a stock engine or were you need to keep it original as in a Restoration project. First make sure the vacuum canister and the carb's SCV are in good working order. The MoPar electronic control box can be added for a hotter spark and better running and the points will last practically forever. The Pertonix Ignitor unit with a better (Hotter) coil too, is another way to eliminate the old points for a little less Maintance and better running.

By the way Champion Carburetors has a new replacement carb this is an updated copy of the Holley 1904 that can also be used to replace a 1908, the Holley 1940 or an Autolite 1100. these are brand new carb's that don't have the SCV on them but they can be used both for a stock LOD system or a newer Distribitor (see below link) also you can check with Vintage Inlines for this carb.

The New Champion Carburetor Replacement for the Holley 1904 / 1908
http://www.championcarburetor.com/1961- ... 10770.html

Hope this has been of some help for you on your early engine. If you have any other questions about this you can make another post so we can address your concerns. Good luck in your Performance goals. (y) :nod:
 
My 2 cents worth:

How is the fuel delivery?
Are the fuel lines clear of rusty particles, are you running a fuel filter and if so when was it last cleaned or replaced?
What is the state of the fuel pump? Do you know if it is providing fuel volume to specification?
What is the inside of the fuel tank like? Has it been rusty at some time and then had the rust dislodge and partially block the fuel pick up?

I say all this as years ago I raced my Triumph Spitfire and it used to get through 80% of a race then mysteriously die. It would then come back to life after being towed back to the pits. This happened several times before another racer suggested blowing compressed air back through the fuel lines (with the fuel tank cap open). This fixed the problem (later I pulled the tank out, had it acid dipped and coated).

Cheers,
Alan.
 
Several have asked what I mean by dropping a cylinder. It runs on 5 cylinders instead of 6 for a short time following shifting gears. How aggressive I accelerate determines how long it stays on 5 cylinders. Hard acceleration to top of gear, then shift....longer on 5 cylinders. Eady acceleration, shift early, stays on 6 or very short time on 5 cylinders. Being warmed up lessens the problem a bit. Also, leaving in 2nd at higher rpm, around 20+ mph, then slowing down, something happens...5 cylinders for a bit until it "catches up".
 
5 rigs B4 the '68 change over...
did UC the info on SCV - a lill shinny disk on side of the carb (click on big blue bx @ above crossed screwdriver/wrench) & LOM?

https://fordsix.com/ci/Loadomatic.html

(I think that's it, didn't read)
Sounds advance/timing/ignit involved (to me, not a mechanic).
 
From your description of your 1963's operation and the parts that you have already replaced I don't think the problem is in the ignition system, carb or fuel system, so that leaves compression. Things to check if you haven’t already. Do a compression test if you haven't already (with the engine warmed up good like just after its dropping the cylinder) to see if one cylinder shows a much lower compression reading. Your car should have had an adjustable rocker arm set stock. One of the rocker arms may be a little too tight causing that one cylinder to drop intermittently. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
:unsure: There`s just one question that I have`nt seen mentioned yet.Is it the same cylinder every
time or are random cylinders dropping out.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Great thread...thanks fir all the input. I will insure all filters are good. I will check compression. I believe it is the same cylinder
dropping based on the feel of the 5 cylinders being identical every time. Hard to tell however. at idle it is on 6 all the time. might be able to rev and get the cylinder to drop and then pull wires to see where there us no change.

Again thanks for the direction.
 
intermittent is all ways tough, good luck, let us know
 
I'm still wondering about exactly what "dropping a cylinder" means, and how you know one cylinder isn't firing.

So...you floor it in gear, rev it up and it accelerates fine, but when you put in the clutch and let off the gas and shift - it starts missing / running roughly / shaking? Or does it just not have much power for a second or three once you shift into the next gear, then it picks up and away you go again?

The difference may seem subtle, but it's significant.

If it starts shaking/missing, I'd look long and hard at the ignition - although ignition faults tend to show up most at high load, high rpm, or high temp (weak coils), plus if you're fouling a plug the high load/rpm would tend to clean it.

If it just seems weak or lazy, I'd look at fuel - most likely it's emptying the float bowl and starving the engine at high rpm, then when you shift it takes a second to refill and catch up.

My money is on fuel - either a clogging filter, weak pump, or something in the carb (low float, tiny inlet valve, dirt inside somewhere).


Take the car out where you can keep it floored longer than you usually would while accelerating on flat ground - either a long hill or on the highway. If it falls on its face after some long wide open pulls but recovers after letting off the throttle, the engine is running out of fuel.
 
...to Jamyers

Your first description in your post hit the nail on the head. Will continue to explore ignition issues. Thanks.
 
Have yet to check compression. I did put a new carb on. It is a loadamatic and the carb does have the scv. So I should be good there. Thinking about replacing the vacuum diaphragm at the distributor next......

Its winter here in N Texas and I wrench outside so, days are few and far good enough to tear into much outside.

I appreciate all the input. Will keep you posted.
 
Back
Top