t5 swap 66 mustang 200

Well thanks, I noticed the bolts in the engine where cut off. To make them shorter. The Auto flywheel fell off as I loosened the bolts , (or removed all of them) the spacer may have been on the front of the flexplate. Thanks for the help. (y)
 
While I like Fords and love my Ranchero, anybody in charge of any part of the whole "connecting-engines-to-transmissions" part of Ford Engineering should have been drawn, quartered, shot, then burned at a stake. They make plumbing manufacturers look like a model of standardization.

:devilish: :eek: :devilish: :eek: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 
jamyers":3gi5d5mr said:
While I like Fords and love my Ranchero, anybody in charge of any part of the whole "connecting-engines-to-transmissions" part of Ford Engineering should have been drawn, quartered, shot, then burned at a stake. They make plumbing manufacturers look like a model of standardization.

:devilish: :eek: :devilish: :eek: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
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:shock: :unsure: in what way? A factory made part that’s installed according to the factory manual, they are easy and well engineered. However after 50 plus years of people cobbling, jury rigging, or modding things that’s a whole another story? :nod:
 
bubba22349":1tz37bbz said:
:shock: :unsure: in what way?
...
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The variety of bellhousing sizes, block/bellhousing bolt patterns, high and low-mount starters, block plates, etc.

The lack of standardization across engines, transmissions, and years is what I'm referring to.

By way of comparison, from around '65 to '76 any Buick engine will bolt straight up to any Buick (also Olds, Pontiac) transmission.
 
Mach1Mark":2sc4gxsj said:
Anyone change over to a wire clutch conversion kit? The fork is a push not a pull. Although NPD shows a MDL 65 to 66 clutch wire conversion, it doesnt make sense, do I have to get a new clutch fork?

I purchased,.. I believe the last new 136 tooth flywheel on Earth, hahaha. Napa, autozone, rileys, NPD, Harris mustang and so on do not have the 136 tooth.

I'm about to put it all together. I purchased a clutch plate and pressure plate from AutoZone for a 78 Fairmont 3.3 L, seems to fit. A 1984 4 cylinder turbo Mustang also has a 9-inch clutch that seemed to fit also. Having issues finding a good throwout bearing that works.. Any suggestions?..

So, has anybody installed a wire clutch conversion kit, or do I have to put the whole Z Bar system in? Thanks for ur help.
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Just recently went through this swapping my 63.5 falcon from auto to T5 with the MD adapter. I had purchased the cable kit years ago not realizing the 3.03 bell was a push when the cable is a pull. I contemplated fabricating a fulcrum to convert the pull utilizing the Z-bar pivot boss on the block as it seemed more interesting than sourcing all the needed parts to go the Z-bar route. Instead I spent the better part of a weekend figuring out exactly what all I needed and where to find it. My Z-bar is more difficult to locate than the one you'll need but I found one in good shape on the bay. As for everything else, darn near each part came from a different source... Seems nuts there wasn't a single source with all parts on hand...

While I was going through all this I learned QuickTime makes a bell housing for our beloved 200. It's a little over $700(was on sale over the holidays) but solves a host of issues. T5 bolts right up. Uses a pull fork and whatnot. If I were building the end all be all six, I wouldn't think twice. Even then depending on what you wind up paying for a good bell, all new bits and pieces and the adapter, you're already getting close.

https://www.holley.com/products/drivetr ... ts/RM-4050

As for the throwout bearing, I too went with a modern multi finger diaphragm and the TO bearing was too short. I got this and ran it full height and works like a champ.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-16515
 
63 Falcon , what clutch and clutch pressure disc (clutch set) did u use? From what car, year?

I purchased a 78 Fairmont 3.3 L clutch
set ( well that's what autozone handed me) ..,when installed I believe it seems to be way to tight,.

When I set it on a flat surface and place the clutch pressure plate over the clutch disc, the pressure plate sets (hovers) above the clutch disc with a gap. , not just a hair, but about the thickeness, of the clutch disk. It looks like this clutch set is for a step type flywheel. Meaning the clutch disc would set farther in the flywheel. I hope this all makes sense.

When I bolt the disc and the pressure plate (clutch set) to the flywheel, I watch the fingers go from a curved shape to almost flat. It looks like there is no more give for the forks, like it cant be pushed in any more.

I looked at the gap on the old original clutch set, (3 finger clutch pressure plate, and new old stock 66 clutch disc) and it look about the same,

What am I missing? Is this normal? So what clutch set are u using. Thanks for your help.
 
Well, I had my neighbor look at this disc set this morning, he is a master mechanic, and said that was normal.

What do u guys think? I've never installed a manual transmission before,.. so I didn't know.

Hey, isnt that what this forum is for? To help the uknowledgable guys like myself through the process so we can keep these engines alive.

Thanks for ur help everyone, and any opinions or suggestions would be great.
 
Yes the gap is normal and this is how the presure plate has enough force to hold the clutch disk from slipping as the engines power is transferred through the transmission and continuing onto the rear wheels. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Mach1Mark":wuny6oj7 said:
Well, I had my neighbor look at this disc set this morning, he is a master mechanic, and said that was normal.
What do u guys think? I've never installed a manual transmission before,.. so I didn't know.
Hey, isnt that what this forum is for? To help the uknowledgable guys like myself through the process so we can keep these engines alive.
Thanks for ur help everyone, and any opinions or suggestions would be great.
Click to expand...
"a pic's worth a thous..."
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=48863
may help.
We'll C with the new site, Perry's gettin close I think?
(y)
 
Waiting for the hydraulic clutch slave and master cyclnder to come in from rock auto, (89 f150 master and clutch slave) I'm going to make a bracket and cross fingers and hope it all works LOL.

Again any comments, suggestions or critical constructive criticism is accepted. Thanks guys.
 
Mach1Mark":1ztabrbi said:
Waiting for the hydraulic clutch slave and master cyclnder to come in from rock auto, (89 f150 master and clutch slave) I'm going to make a bracket and cross fingers and hope it all works LOL.
Again any comments, suggestions or critical constructive criticism is accepted. Thanks guys.
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How will u hang the slave?
Did U find the gland yet, I remember U were looking...
 
I purchased a hydraulic master and hydraulic slave from a 1990 f150 5.0. It's a plunger style. No I haven't figured out how to "hang" it yet. I'm going to fabricate some bracket outside the bell, and push on the fork,... and hope it all works. I've seen a couple photos, I've seen this style on Honda's and so on. ... so wish me luck.
 
Eric Rose used the common Fox body cable clutch adaptor to the early Falcon firewall on his SROD to 200 Ford. Your situtation is the same or similar.

Its very simple.

If I dont get abducted by Aliens, I'll post a link.
 
jamyers":2rd881e7 said:
bubba22349":2rd881e7 said:
:shock: :unsure: in what way?
...
Click to expand...
The variety of bellhousing sizes, block/bellhousing bolt patterns, high and low-mount starters, block plates, etc.

The lack of standardization across engines, transmissions, and years is what I'm referring to.

By way of comparison, from around '65 to '76 any Buick engine will bolt straight up to any Buick (also Olds, Pontiac) transmission.
Click to expand...

Not really caring if-ing ima sounding like a counter reactionary revisionist employed by FoMoCo.

Ford is mutifaceted, and like GM, had plants all over the world.

Unlike GM, it imported gearboxes from Colonge West Germany, Essex West England, and due to antitrust regulations, was forced to allow Ford Australia to use Borg Warner AMC, Stubebaket/Volvo 144/164 gearboxes, and Ford Argentina to use GM Saginaw gearboxes, so extensive Standarsation was never gonna work from 1960 to around 1978.

The Windsor plant engines were factory inventory fillers, so they got shunted around in the 1958 to 1960 McNamara era to meet market and cost requirements. The demise of the planned German based V4 Cardinal / Corsair sub compact in 1961 ment Germam production capacity exported parts to the USA for some driveline components, then a switch to UK Dagnham after 62. The attempts at standardisation did occur.

The problem was the early 221 260 and 289s had 5 bolt bell housings and 160 teeth flywheels, changed to 157 teeth and six bolts in 66 when the 240 Big Six arrived. The Big Six Design was unique, and engineered largely by an ex Hudson engineer at a very low cost on a new transfer line which piloted some thinwall advances. Ford then had a raft of plant disicions to make, which created Union issues. It was the gradual was move to Small block V8 and Big Six parts which were not and could not be standardised till 1966 on the six bolt bell 289 and 240. It was a free for all untill 66, and again from the 250 to Fox 3.3 Era. First, Toploaders in the 170 Econoline in 1964 and then the 250 sixes SBF bellhousing, the cable clutch in 1979, and the Big Bell in 1980. Ford had master plans, but it was never able to do a GM "one size fits all" mentality. Jeep, AMC and Mopar had the same issues, and used to change engine block bellhousing patterns like the wind to cover off transmissions. The rampant changes in SR4, Chrysler Corp and 273 verses 313/318/340/360 and the early AMC 343 verses Mopar trans bellhousings made hot rodders just as confused as us Ford guys. Especially messex up were 2.5 and 2.8 Chev engined XJ Jeep and AMC owners who had Chysler gearboxes in Poncho or Chev engined fours...or was it Audi engined?

It was all designed for least cost options to beat the foreign invasion of Jap and Euro cars. Heck, for three years, Ford had Datsun auto gearboxes in 1.8 liter Courier Pickups and Granada 250 in line sixes.
 
Hey guys, thanks for all your help so far.. I made a bracket for my 1990 master clutch and slave cylinder. I popped out the stock hole in the firewall that is used for the stock push rod for the Zbar. I drilled a couple holes so I could bolt on the clutch master cylinder to the fire wall. I turned the master cylinder slightly to have it fit against the firewall and clearance from the brake master cylinder. The push rod for the cylinder was modified to an adjustable push rod. It all seems to work.

Made a bracket for the slave cylinder and it bolts up to the transmission and works with the stock push style clutch fork and throwout bearing.

So far, so good. If anyone needs photos I'll be glad to send them to you.

Anyway, I pulled the old C4 out today, things are going smooth so far.

One question, I forgot about the safety neutral switch. There were two plugs with two wires per plug to the neutral safety switch. I unplugged the wires from the neutral safety switch to the wires coming out of the firewall. I believe one plug connector is for the rear backup lights and the other is for starting the car. If the car is not in neutral, or park, the car will not start. I believe the T5 has a back up light switch on the transmission. I did watch a video from CJ Pony Parts and you can connect one plug connector to this switch so the back up lights will come on when the transmission is in reverse. However, what about the safety switch, can I just loop the connection together to start the car. Just stick a wire in one end of the plug and touch it to the other wire of the plug? Both of these connections, ( the back up light connector and the safety switch) have two wires to each plug. I assume I can just close the loop, connect one wire to the other.

I hope this is clear, thanks for your help , opinions, and comments.
 
X2 yes it's that simple or if you wanted you could mount a switch to the clutch pedal so that you needed to step on the clutch before the engine is started like on the newer model cars. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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