VI aluminum valve cover woes

I put a VI aluminum valve cover on my Aussie 2V head... so why did they machine the surface for the bolt head at 0*(horizontal) rather than the roughly 10* at which the bolts sit? i.e. perpendicular to the mounting surface... Big fail!

Was this done specifically for the VI aluminum head? Are the valve cover holes in that head drilled vertical or perpendicular to the mounting surface like a cast iron head?

I think it's for VI alu and our ford heads.
Ask Matt, he is oriented to customer service, replies to my posts.
There is a button on his site.
Sorry, can;t problem solve/give work-a-rounds,
don't know that model (need more info).

Chad, the American iron heads are the same as the Aussie in that respect.

I guess I'll attempt to find a way to extend an endmill out that far so I can correct the blunder.

"...in that respect..."
I wonder Y this 1 is like that. Is this an anomaly? did some 1 mod it?
(makes a difference in change over)
Still can't picture it, and it seem like ur "all set" already...?

If not - ck-in w/Oz guys?

viewforum.php?f=3

good luck ATX ! 'Mon back if still lookin...

63falconATX":3aadcev2 said:

I put a VI aluminum valve cover on my Aussie 2V head... so why did they machine the surface for the bolt head at 0*(horizontal) rather than the roughly 10* at which the bolts sit? i.e. perpendicular to the mounting surface... Big fail!

Was this done specifically for the VI aluminum head? Are the valve cover holes in that head drilled vertical or perpendicular to the mounting surface like a cast iron head?

Click to expand...

I can't answer why but it's a good guess that it was done specifically to fit the Aluminun head. What if you used a Dremel tool to slot the holes a slightly to fit?

Hey Bubba, thanks for chiming in. The holes are fine, it's the machined surface the bolt head sits in. FWIW I'm dealing with Matt on it now. But I can't imagine the alu head is machined differently. At least I hope it isn't. I can imagine such a design, holding down an oil keeping cover with fasteners at an angle relative to the surface one is sealing.... Torque and shift? no way...

In the long run this is nothing a sheet metal cover won't fix.

bubba22349":73ra9evu said:

63falconATX":73ra9evu said:

I put a VI aluminum valve cover on my Aussie 2V head... so why did they machine the surface for the bolt head at 0*(horizontal) rather than the roughly 10* at which the bolts sit? i.e. perpendicular to the mounting surface... Big fail!

Was this done specifically for the VI aluminum head? Are the valve cover holes in that head drilled vertical or perpendicular to the mounting surface like a cast iron head?

Click to expand...

I can't answer why but it's a good guess that it was done specifically to fit the Aluminun head. What if you used a Dremel tool to slot the holes a slightly to fit?

Click to expand...

yes 63FalconATX, that would be quite different then I was imagining and I would agree that there would no reason for the valve cover to be made that way. How are you doing otherwise on your beautiful 1963 Falcon fastback build up?

bubba22349":1m6k2efn said:

yes 63FalconATX, that would be quite different then I was imagining and I would agree that there would no reason for the valve cover to be made that way. How are you doing otherwise on your beautiful 1963 Falcon fastback build up?

Click to expand...

Thanks for asking. After a long break to take care of family, business and health, I finally got the new 200 build finished this week and my buddy and I pulled the 170/ford-o-matic out just today. I'll get the clutch/bell and T5 bolted up tomorrow with a goal of breaking in the new cam on or before Jan 1 2020! WooHoo!!! Very excited.

that’s great news will be looking forward to hear how you like it! Good luck on the break in.

Bump
Bump?
news frm ur part of Williamson Co & T5 mate up?
Work-a-round for the alu VC? (if so, look pretty good w/the matchin carb hat...

Been busy catching up on all the things I was blowing off while getting the motor back in the car. However I have had the car running for about a month.

Still has the VI valve cover but for now with the moroso baffled grommet. Its working for now but I could see how eventually it will get jammed up with oil. I'm temporarily extending it up a couple inches and baffling with stainless scrubby pad material.

My bigger issue is oil leaking... too much. I corrected the HEI oil leak issue, got a better fitting pan but still loosing quite a bit, of course dripping from both sides of the divider plate. Pan, block and head totally clean and dry.

When I initially installed the flywheel it had Loctite but I had to remove it(forgot the divider) and I'm pretty sure I didnt use loctite or sealer the second time. We are talking a drip every 5 seconds when good and warm. Nothing when cold. For this I plan to pull the motor, pop the bell and pay close attention to where oil is and isn't.

I'll be prepared to do the rear main as well and have gotten a Ford OE replacement as we are hearing such bad things about the current felpro. Though I found this block with a rope seal yet no pin, its an E0 and the crank is finished for a neoprene seal so that's that.

I've got another 250-300mi to put on this break-in(second oil after cam) since its so expensive and then I'll get after it. I'll report back.

Oh, I forgot to mention how freaking fun and awesome this little Falcon is now. It feels like 3x the old 170 and 2 spd. That Aussie head, cam and T5... 3rd and 4th between 35 and 65mph is a freaking blast. Very punchy. It runs really well. Just too much oil coming out for my taste.

"...the divider plate..."
would I call that a block plate?

chad":3a09m0rx said:

"...the divider plate..."
would I call that a block plate?

Click to expand...

that would be it. ive also heard them called index plates...

"...remove it(forgot the divider) and I'm pretty sure I didnt use loctite or sealer..."
may B it. don't know myself 4 sure
"...do the rear main..."
there R some really good tricks on that here in a thread, suggest following them,
4 the latter I think they include a way to do so w/o engine removal but the (former) other requires it, no?
also make sure the pvc as U have it set up duz not create unhelpful pressure...

Oh man I hate being on my back under cars, houses and what not. Plus the fact that I used socket cap instead of OE style hex head bolts on the bell and I cannot get good enough access to them. Honestly it takes me less than an hour to unhook/prep for removal, my buddy shows up and the hood is off and motor out in 15 minutes. The install doesn't take much longer.

As for RM install, it was done by the book and didn't give any trouble. Lip forward and lubed, back dry, clocked, cap corners sealed, thrust bearing is new(as are all) and end ply is in spec. Line bore checked and well in spec.

The PCV works well. You can feel the vacuum at the filler/breather.

Honestly I'm probably not even going to pull the pan if the flywheel and bolts indicate heavy leakage there. It should be obvious. But who knows. I might for good measure.