76 maverick 250 new cam

Maholmes76

New member
Just got a 76 Ford Maverick with 76,000 original miles. Car is really nice. It has the 250 straight six and I wanted to make it sound and run the way it looks. Any suggestions on where to start? I have just received the new cam, lifters springs and timing gears and chain and wanted to change the distributor. Was thinking pertronix? Any thoughts there? I am just a back yard mechanic but can get around a engine ok and wanted to do this with my boy. They car is for his 16th birthday.
 
Many beginners confuse the 240 with the 250 but they are different engine family’s. If your car is orginal with only 76,000 miles it will have 250 cu. in. small block Straight Six, the 240 / 300 are the big sixes and were never offered in the Mavericks stock. Of corse there have been a few Maverick race cars custom built with the big block six. The 1976 Maverick has the Dura Spark II electronic Distribitor that's already very good. But you could have it curved and also add a MSD contol box if you wanted. Good luck on your build up. You could add a direct mounted 2V carb, headers, and even a Turbo sky's the limit and or your budget. (y) :nod:
 
Hi, as mentioned, the Ford ignition is very good. I would not rush out and change original Ford parts for Chinese parts.
Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook from Vintage Inlines before you get in too deep.
Be aware you must degree your cam, see the Echo engine rebuild videos. The timing chain sets for the 200 engines are off. I'm not sure if the 250 timing chain sets are any good. I needed the adjustable crank sprocket from Vintage Inline for my 200 engine.
Good luck
 
W E L C O M E !!!
to the best forum on the site (right after):

viewforum.php?f=2

which may B your correct point of entry.

No matter we can help here as well. We got all kinza "back yard mechanics'. Most, 1st off w/a new to them, 50 yr old vehicle, set about
RESEARCH. We ID everything we can abt the car (rear gear, carb, motor, etc). This is cuz anything can B swaped out over that 1/2 century. As above - no Mav came w/a 300 or a 240, 2 very different motors. B4 any purchaes plez C what ya got. 'The Handbook' is a top source. C Matt at vintage inlines dot com for abt $20. Or here (more chancy), he shows up now'n then like all us. While waiting for delivery peruse the 'tech archive' above. Its at the row of big blue boxes (the 1 w/the crossed screw driver'n wrench). The 'ID' & 'History' topics may help. 4 'small block' i6 motors '60 - '83, 2 'big block' i6 motors (I think) '64 - '96. If U have the larger it has a seperate intake that can B unbolted at the head (some, same bolts as exhaust). If not it may B 1 of the other 4. Still gotta ID exact for those prts ya got.

Come back after a closer inspection. If 'attached intake' (called 'log') we can get into which sm 6...
 
Howdy Maholmes 76:

And welcome to THE FORUM! Yes, it is that good. While you are doing your homework on what you have, engine wise, I'd suggest that you assess the whole drive train. Check out the code plate on the frame of the driver side door. Also the VIN number will ID what engine and trans your car has. Once you know all the details, the next step will be planning. A good plan will save time and money and will make the journey and the outcome more satisfactory. IF you don't already have a shop manual for your vehicle you will need one.

IF I were in your shoes, I'd start with a good tune-up. Even though the car has relatively low miles it has 43 years of neglect and wear. Include a good cleaning of the carb, inside and out. An aerosol can of carb cleaner and a fuel system cleaner in a can. You put fuel system cleaner it in the gas tank and drive it clean. Change all filters- gas, air, and oil.

Ignition system is next, or even similtainiously with the fuel system cleaning. Inspect and clean all elements- spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap inside, and all connections. Once all is in top shape, it is time to bring out the timing light. If you don't have one, plan on buying one. They are relatively inexpensive, about $50. I'd recommend the dial back kind to make timing a little easier.

A basic tune-up will be a good place to start. I also recommend adding 5 degrees of additional advance over the stock specs for your engine/trans combo.

I love your Father-Son project. That's the way my brother and I started with my Dad and at least three Model A Fords back in the fifties. For as much as cars have changed since then car maintenance is still, basically, the same.

I will be looking forward to hearing more about your car and your plans. Enjoy the trip.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for the info guys! I have attached a quick pic of the car and the engine. If this helps to I’d the motor. The guy from comp cams measured from the crank to the head and he said that would tell him which cam I needed. Is that true?
 
no pic
read material suggested~

(including:
https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=79533
we're a do it yourself place, can only give a hand).

big block is not same length as sm blk. U told him it wuz "a 240/300" so that's what U got.
ID (the suggestions), if stuck after a read, tell us what U found.
Thinkin its a (I have no idea) a 'sm block' (this is a misnomer as ford goes by 'families', but anyway...)
LOOK a-bit behind the down tube of the exhaust (away frm radiator) @ pass's side. I took a can of kero'n a scrub brush'n found " C8DE " in the 1st row of 2 (1968) beneath alota grease'n dirt. I bent over the fender & reached in there while outside on my gravel drive. Cold now, inside? put dwn a plastic drop cloth, cover w/absorbent (newspaper, rags, whajagot), gota town...
 
Maholmes76":s22d3u46 said:
Thanks for the info guys! I have attached a quick pic of the car and the engine. If this helps to I’d the motor. The guy from comp cams measured from the crank to the head and he said that would tell him which cam I needed. Is that true?

Ford offered a chooice of three diffent engines for the 1976 model year Mavericks and Comets, these were the.

The 200 Inline Six (note that this engine wasn't offered for sale in the California market). The easy way to ID this small Six is to count the water pump to block mounting bolts. They will have Three.

The 250 Inline Six. The easy way to ID these engines is to also count the water pump to block mounting bolts. They will have Four.

The 302 V8

Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Ok it’s the 250. I ordered a comp cam for the 240-300 and thought I had messed up but come to find out the cam I ordered will fit all 10 inch deck height straight sixes.
 
Maholmes76":2ujxdrmh said:
Ok it’s the 250. I ordered a comp cam for the 240-300 and thought I had messed up but come to find out the cam I ordered will fit all 10 inch deck height straight sixes.

if you ordered a cam for a 240-300, then it WONT fit the 250 as they are two different engines. the 250 is shorter and uses different sized cam bearings, etc.
 
"...Ok it’s the 250..."
now, ck head...U may have Ok, Good, or Real niiiiyyssse :nod:
C numbers on top of log, it's shape~
 
rbohm":39vimmx5 said:
Maholmes76":39vimmx5 said:
Ok it’s the 250. I ordered a comp cam for the 240-300 and thought I had messed up but come to find out the cam I ordered will fit all 10 inch deck height straight sixes.

if you ordered a cam for a 240-300, then it WONT fit the 250 as they are two different engines. the 250 is shorter and uses different sized cam bearings, etc.
This is right, the 240-300 Big six cam will not fit a 144,170,200 and the 250 small six .
Valve order is also different.
 
"...This is right...will not fit..."
correct
 
Hi, I can't imagine what they sent you. Why don't you post the part numbers. The 240/300 cam has a pressed on timing gear, and runs gear to gear, no chain. The smaller car engines uses a timing set with a chain.

I will say this again. There is something wrong with the modern replacement timing chain sets. THEY ARE OFF BY OVER 15*. You MUST degree your cam, whoever you get it from. I needed the adjustable timing chain set from Vintage Inlines to dial in my cam.

You also need to reuse the steel pin and "wedding ring" from the old cam.

While I am happy with my cam in my big heavy 66 Bronco, You can find more performance oriented cams if you ask what the go fast guys here are using.

The quick way to tell the difference between a big six and a small six is, the small six has the distributor towards the front, and the big six has the distributor centered. The small six has the one piece head and intake, and the big six has the bolt in intake.

Good luck
 
right prt, wrong motor, as my above post
Happy Boxing Day !
(reverse Christmass)
Happens all the time. I never destroy packing untill comparing old to new. We usually 'de-box' ina way we can 're-box' every time, just in case. I have 3 kindza tape ( repack the way it came to me). I ask them how they wish to rec. Figure the pricing. THEN reorder (if knowing the correct application) in same call or online. This is for customer or self.

ID head & ignition nxt (you'll B glad U did) Matt at Vintage Inlines dot com ("The Ford...6 Cylinder Performance Handbook') and while awaiting delivery the 'tech archive' above. Even 4 these ol girls prepare for a technical adventure, no knuckle draggers here. When opening the tool box a Chiltons or Haynes (or an expensive but much appreciated Ford Shop manual) helps. We can assist w/tool selection and even prts buy if U have figured budget (U have done total budget, yes?). As the auto is a system the primary Q for all automotive is Application. What will the car B used for? Lots of DD, strip & track experience here.

So: research, ID just what is here (50 yr history B4U, what is the rear gear, etc), plan & budget. Just like painting a room, prep is 80%, slap on paint an important 20%, if U wanna good (pro) job. Also important for son 2 C, reality...
 
Thanks for the Info. I have a local speed shop that has the correct cam. The thing that was throwing them off is the deck height. If measured from center of crank to bottom of head it is 10 inches. Book shows it should be 7.88 or so. Anyone know why this is? Or am I measuring this wrong. Needless to say I have what I need to get this cam in and get it degreed. Then we can move on to the next phase. Thanks for all the info!
 
Before you purchase another cam list all the specs on your engine?? If it is a 250 are you doing any carb. swaps?? Any exhaust mods??
If you are going to leave it stock you need a camshaft in the mid 250 degree to 260 degree area. The 250 can absorb a little more duration than a 200.
I can supply you the distributor you need. I have a HEI which includes MSD spark plug wire & a harness with a relay to supply a full 12V to the dist.
I also have a DS11
I will custom recurve either one for your engine combination. Email me your phone # & the best time to call you. billythedistributorman@live.com You can look at my listings in the small six for sale section of the forum. Bill PM sent
 
"...am I measuring this wrong?"
I believe U R.

1st think abt how U wish to use the vehicle (80% of RPMs), back rd twisties, grocery getter/mall crawl, track, etc. (back 2 application)
Compression & Octane R nxt. Yes, cam then comes in & motor is built around this choice.
I would tell the prts man 'I have some decisions to make. Get back 2 U soon.' He just wants to make a sale, u wanna do this once~

Let me know if I am being too paternalistic.
Not sure ur skill level, rebuild experience~
Seen too many hack jobs to keep my nose out at this point.
Am a poor man, hate to C money waisted.

"rebuilding a new 2 me 250": toward what end (application)? how much do U wanna spend, how much will U do urself? do U havea machine shop / farm it out / or no machining at all? will U havean auto or manual transmis? (y)
 
Was lapping the valves today and noticed small Annular groves as I did them. I am using the lapping hand tool. And permatex valve grinding compound. Is this going to be ok. Not sure this is the first time I have lapped valves
 
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